Will green be the colour of change in Iran's election?

ESFAHAN, IRAN – I can bear witness to the fact that support for Ahmadinejad’s main rival, Mir Hossein Mousavi, is not confined to wealthy north Tehran.

We nearly got crushed in the crowd in Esfahan‘s central square yesterday.

It wasn’t even the main man speaking but his prominent and much-loved supporter, former President Khatami. The crowd was mainly young, many with their faces painted green – Moussavi’s campaign colour.

The square has to be one of the most lovely places in the world, with the historic imam’s mosque at one end, and the bricked porticos of the bazaar around. I’m no good at estimated crowds, but there were tens of thousands. Some climbed the trees and waved green flags. Others leaned off the balconies around the edge. 

Quite a few were university students, and most had the same mantras: We hate Ahmadinejad! Ahmadinejad is a liar! We want change!

One man came up to me and said, almost conspiratorially, “Ahmadinejad is a radical man. But Mousavi is a logical man,” which I thought was a concise way of expressing his opinion.

The temporary freedom the election brings is heady and unfamiliar. One young woman in requisite green headscarf volunteered to be interviewed on camera, giving strong views on the importance of defeating the president.

A few minutes later she came up and said she was scared that maybe she’d get into trouble for what she’d said. I told her that others had expressed similar views. She thought about it.

“Then let me say more!” she said, and off she went again! Then her friend, a tall 20-something with a green bandana around her headscarf, jumped in front of the camera so she could have her say too.

In 2005, 60 per cent of Esfahan voters plumped for Ahmadinejad. If you go by the rally, you’d think this time Mousavi would win easily.

But in the bazaar around the square, the old merchants were sitting quietly smoking and contemplating their deserted stalls.

No-one was shopping today. They’ve strung Ahmadinejad posters above the vaulted arches, and they told me they’ll vote for him this time just as they did in 2005. “All these people are just young girls in bad hijab,” said one old bazaari, throwing a contemptuous glance at the green crowd outside. “Esfahan will vote for Ahmadinejad. Just you wait.”

– More blog posts on the Iranian elections here.

UPDATE – TV report from Esfahan below: