Nag Hammadi is the sacred home to millions of Egypt's Coptic Christians.
The sight of a cross next to the crescent of a mosque is quite usual in this small town in the upper Nile.
Here, I am introduced to a brother who provides me with a brief summary and history of this Eastern Orthodox religion.
Being the oldest form of Christianity, established by St Mark, only a few years after the crucifixion of Jesus, this was where the persecuted fled to during the 1st Century.
The monk's passionate description of how the church developed filled most of the afternoon before I took my leave and wandered through the maze of alleyways back to my hotel.
My feet are holding up well against the constant pounding along the road’s dry surface, it seems like a lifetime ago that I was in the depths of the rainforest in Rwanda - hacking through the jungle undergrowth – what a contrast.