Donetsk talks of the fight against fascism – from Kiev
It is their Battle of Britain. In Donetsk, outside the football stadium, a vast statue of Lenin has his arm around the unknown Russian soldier.
Everyone gathered here for Victory Day parades to commemorate the epic Soviet repulse of Hitler, talks of the fight against fascism. But now in the east Ukraine the word has double or more meanings. The fascists of Barbarossa and Stalingrad and the latter-day perceived fascism of Kiev.
The veterans are out. Bedecked by medals, a colonel who fought the Nazis all the way back to Berlin berates the crowd about the new perceived fascist threat from Kiev.
Around him polite applause from well turned-out ladies, gents in suits. Beyond, men in shades and made-up uniforms look on impassive, red flags with hammers and sickles snapping in the breeze.
Later – for the first time, it seems, on the main roads of this major regional capital – armed militias parade toward Lenin Square. Local accents, no masks and, yes, happy to give interviews.
“We will protect the referendum on Sunday,” says their commander.
Next to him is Lenin, all leather skullcap and waistcoat, bandana, fingerless gloves and Kalashnikov. His name tag on his chest just says “Lenin” in English.
“Oh it’s just a nickname,” Lenin tells me, helpfully, “but I really don’t know how things will turn out here,” he adds.
Should they not turn out peacefully, he appears tooled up and ready, albeit in slightly home-made fashion.
Vitali looks on as the “people’s militia” marches into Lenin Square past traffic cops loyal to Kiev.
Born and brought up here, but now working in Kiev as a property agent, he looks on as women cry and hand these armed men flowers and lilac blossom.
“I dunno. This stirs up all kinds of things in me. Things I never thought were there. But guns on the streets – wow – I dunno.”
“So do you feel? Russian or Ukranian? ” I ask.
“That’s just it. That question never arose before in my heart. Now we are confronted. For sure, Putin is the man. No disrespect, but against him every western leader looks completely incapable.
“I live in Kiev and I see people in western Ukraine who want very different things from me.”
“So how will you vote in Sunday in the referendum?”
“It’s tricky – I guess we really need just autonomy. To have more power to make decisions ourselves.”
In all the chanting, tears, dancing, his is a considered and thoughtful voice.
For many, though, it is all just about fascism again, and today’s violence in Mariupol will only entrench that. As they see it, they must overcome the junta in Kiev, just as the bemedalled old soldiers saw off those other fascists from the Stalingrad snowfields to the rubble of Berlin.
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