City Guides: Marseille

France’s second biggest city, often known as the ‘Gateway to the Orient’, Marseille is one of Europe’s most cosmopolitan. With a population of 1.23m inhabitants, it is the continent’s second biggest port behind Rotterdam, and has been enjoying a renaissance in popularity of late, with the tourist industry thriving. However, few things are as important to the city as its football club, l’Olympique de Marseille. Le Stade The Stade Vélodrome was first built in 1937 in preparation for the 1938 World Cup. It used to include a bright cycling track around the pitch, from which the stadium got its name, but it was completely renovated for the 1998 World Cup, expanding the capacity to just over 60,000. Owned by the council, and leased back to the football club, the Vélodrome also hosts rugby matches, and there is talk of the stadium being expanded to 80,500 - the extra 500 is to make it bigger than the Stade de France - in time for the 2007 Rugby World Cup. Should you visit a match in winter, though, be warned – only the upper part of one stand, the tribune Jean Bouin, is covered – if it rains, you will get wet! It is also a very open ground, and the wind coming in off the sea can often make for a very cold viewing experience. Getting there British Airways fly three times a day from Gatwick direct to Marseille. Expect to pay around £75 for a return. EasyJet fly once a day, also from Gatwick, for around £48 return. Alternatively, one can take the three hour TGV from Paris, which costs around 59 Euros. All tickets are cheapest when booked well in advance. The Marseille Metro system consists of two lines – take the red 2 line to Rond Point du Prado, and follow the crowds to the stadium. Marseille also has a very efficient bus system – all of the following numbers stop at the Rond Point; 19, 21, 21s, 21Jet, 22, 23, 41, 44, 45, 72, and 83. A ticket costs 1.60 Euros, and can be used on any public transport in the city for up to 70 minutes after the first use. A day pass costs 4.50 Euros. If taking a car, it’s best to park away from the stadium, and rely on public transport to get you there. Tickets Despite the 60,000 capacity, tickets often sell out, especially for big games, so it’s advisable to buy tickets in advance. These can be purchased on the official OM website, www.om.net, if you sign up, or by phoning from France 32 29 (0.34/ min). Alternatively, you can purchase tickets from various outlets around the city, such as l’OM Café in the Vieux Port. The North and the South stands, behind each goal, are reserved for those with season tickets and members of supporters clubs, so tickets can only be bought in the Tribune Ganay or the Tribune Jean Bouin, the cheapest being in the corners. If you want to avoid any potential trouble, especially for games against Paris Saint Germain, keep away from blocks L, M and R in the Tribune Ganay, as these are right next to the away fans. Stadium tours Tours depart on the hour every weekday between 10am and 4pm apart from matchdays. Costing only 5 Euros, the tour will take you to the top of the Tribune Jean Bouin, down to the dressing rooms, and out of the tunnel on to the pitch, ending in what is grandly termed the ‘museum’ – a club shop to you and I. Out and About The most popular tourist destination in Marseille is Notre Dame de la Garde, a large basilica overlooking the city. Although it takes a while to climb the hill to the church - take as light a bag as possible! - the views it affords are spectacular. The church itself, with its famous 10-metre high gold statue of the Virgin Mary on a 12-metre plinth, still bears bullet marks from the battle to liberate Marseille in 1944. The Iles de Frioul are found just off the coast of Marseille – boat trips leave the Vieux Port at regular interviews. On the Ile d’If is found the Chateau d’If, made famous by Dumas’ Count of Monte Cristo, while the other islands boast quiet, secluded beaches away from the city life. If staying for a while in Marseille, why not try a day trip to local seaside towns St Tropez and Cassis? One can easily get a coach to Cassis, but no direct public transport link to St Tropez means that the best way to get there is by car. For up-to-date information, pick up monthly publications Vox Mag, Taktik, and Sortir, or the weekly L’Officiel des Loisirs from the tourist office. Restaurants and nightlife There are some good restaurants on the beachfront in the 9th arrondissement, with some lively bars, too. These have the benefit of being slightly further out of town, therefore cheaper, yet have some stunning views, especially at sunset. However, no one should visit Marseille without trying some of the seafood – try the Mérou Bleu on the rue Saint-Saëns for a central restaurant with a terrace serving local speciality bouillabaisse. With an open-air dance floor, La Maronaise on the Route de la Maronaise is one of the best clubs in Marseille. Open until 5am, there are often long queues to get in, especially during the summer. The best bar for a football fan to visit, though, is the OM Café in the Vieux Port. Open from 6am to 1am, everything is adorned with the OM logo. You can eat out on the terrace with a great view of the Vieux Port, or drink the night away surrounded by les marseillaises. There is also a souvenir shop and ticket office. Accommodation The most popular hostel in Marseille is the Bonneveine Youth Hostel – take a number 44 bus from the Rond Pont du Prado, getting off at the Place Bonnefons stop. A bed is around 17 Euros for the night, with breakfast included. Although about 5 km from the town centre, the hostel is a 5-minute walk from the beach. http://www.fuaj.org/fra/auberges/aj_fiche.php?aj_id=138 +33 (0)4 91 17 63 30 The Hotel Hermes is a recently renovated, two-star hotel by the Vieux Port with a solarium on the top floor with great views. Rooms start at 69 Euros. http://www.hotelmarseille.com/hermes/h_fr/hchambre.htm +33 (0)4 96 11 63 63 One of the best hotels in town is the Sofitel Marseille Vieux Port. However, this luxury hotel doesn’t come cheap – a room with a view of the port starts at 290 Euros. http://www.accorhotels.com/accorhotels/fichehotel/gb/sof/0542/fiche_hotel.shtml +33 (0)4 91 15 59 00 Did you know…? The French National Anthem, La Marseillaise, got its name from the song sung by a battalion of 500 troops marching from Marseille to Paris in support of the revolutionaries in 1792. Previously called the ‘War Song of the Rhine Army’, it became known as La Marseillaise, and was officially adopted as the national anthem three years later.

Words by: Tim Peach