City Guides: Lyon

France’s third-biggest city is also the self-appointed culture and cuisine capital of l’hexagone. Home city to a host of famous French names, from poet Louise Labé to the Lumière brothers – the world’s first cinema is in Lyon – the city has also, for the past four years, been home to the French champions Olympique Lyonnais. Le Stade The Stade Gerland was built in 1920 as a multi-sports arena, designed by celebrated local architect Tony Garnier. Gradually, as the football team became more and more successful, the stadium lost the cycling and athletics track that surrounded the pitch, and the focus of Gerland became football. The two ends of the stadium received a facelift in time for the 1998 World Cup, taking the capacity to 42,000. The best seats for a neutral are in the Jean Bouin stand, though one of the best views is opposite in the Jean Jaures stand with the home fans. Behind the goal at the North end, the hardcore of the Lyon fans, especially the Bad Gones can be found, with the away support usually in the South stand. The pitch itself is one of the best in the country – the grass is never left to grow any longer than 28mm, and never cut any shorter than 25mm. Getting there EasyJet fly from Stanstead, Air France fly from Heathrow, and British Airways fly from Heathrow, Birmingham International and Manchester, all direct to Lyon-Saint Exupery. Once landed at the airport, the Satobus into town takes around 45 minutes. From the town centre, take the number 18 bus from the Jean Mace métro station, or the 32 or 96 from Perrache to get to the stadium. Alternatively, line B on the métro will take you there – get off at the Stade Gerland stop. Tickets Tickets can be bought on the telephone by calling +33 (0)4 72 76 76 13, on the official Lyon website, by going to the ground in advance, or the OL Store on the Avenue Tony Garnier. You should expect to pay between 13 and 60 Euros, depending on the seat. Keep a look out for special deals where you can get tickets for multiple games at a discount price. For the biggest games, such as against Paris Saint-Germain, Marseille, and the local derby against Saint-Etienne, try and get tickets well in advance. Out and About Lyon is known as ‘The Gateway to the Alps’, and if you have time, a day spent skiing, snowboarding or simply walking through the Alps is an absolute must. Between December and April, SLD Voyages organise one-day ski trips, departing by coach at 5.30am, returning around 8.30pm. Trips cost 30-40 Euros, including a ski pass. 14 place Carnot. Métro: Perrache. +33 (0)4 72 40 28 28 Lyon is renowned for its museums, and if you want to visit a lot, then the Lyon City Card is the best option. At 15 Euros for one day, 25 for two, or 30 for three, these cards will get you into every museum in Lyon, on to the roof of the Basilique Notre Dame de Fourviere, and up the Tour de l’Observatoire. You can also take a free guided tour of the city, and, best of all, grants you unlimited access on the city’s bus, métro, tram and funicular networks. Go to the Tourist Office to get the tickets, and a list of all the museums in Lyon. Tourist office, place Bellecour. Métro: Bellecour. +33 (0)4 72 77 69 69 One way of seeing a lot of the city is to take part in the rollerblading tour which goes round every Friday night. Gather at the Place Bellecour, next to the statue, at 9pm for a one-hour ride, or at 10.15pm for a longer tour. The wine connoisseur should not pass on the opportunity to visit the Beaujolais region. An event not to miss is the unveiling of the Beaujolais Nouveau at the stroke of midnight on the third Thursday in November. In the town of Beaujeu, there is free Beaujolais for all at the Sarmentelles de Beaujeu street party. Restaurants and nightlife Lyon prides itself on being the best gastronomic city in France, and it has the restaurants to back it up. Look for bouchons – small, friendly, cheap restaurants that serve traditional Lyonnais cuisine. If you want to try some local cuisine, try some of the following: Boudin blanc (veal sausage), boudin noir (blood sausage), andouillette (pigs’ intestines sausage), cervelle de canut (literally ‘brains of the silk weaver’ – cream cheese with garlic). Before the meal, try a communard – an aperitif of Beaujolais and crème de cassis. Try from the following bouchons: Café des Fédérations – 8 rue Major Martin; Métro: Hotel de Ville; +33 (0)4 78 28 26 00 Chez George – 8 rue du Garet; Métro: Hotel de Ville; +33 (0)4 78 28 30 46 Le Garet – 7 rue du Garet; Métro: Hotel de Ville; +33 (0)4 78 28 16 94 Chez Hugon – 12 rue Pizay; Métro: Hotel de Ville; +33 (0)4 78 28 10 94 The best place for a pre-match drink is the OL Café at 215 avenue Jean Jaures. Enjoy a 1664 surrounded by memorabilia all over the walls, or chatting to the fans about the match. This gets very busy before games – get there early if you want to get a seat! If you want a restaurant with an OL theme, try the Restaurant Tony Garnier, also along the avenue Jean Jaures. Named after the architect who designed the stadium, dining is by reservation only. In terms of nightlife, try the rue Merciere or the rue de la Monnaie – they are two lively areas with bars open until the early hours. If you want to watch some live sport on television, try the Albion Public House on 12, rue St Catherine. The Fish is a very popular floating club moored opposite 21 Quai Augagneur, with occasional live acts. La Chapelle is arguably the most famous club in Lyon – everyone has been there, and everyone wants to go again. 60 Montee de Choulans. +33 (0)4 78 37 23 95 If you fancy something to eat in the early hours after a night out, try Le Bistrot de la Passerelle, 36 Quai St Antoine, +33 (0)4 78 37 61 32. This is a haven for most clubbers, and opens at 5am. Accommodation The Auberge de Jeunesse (youth hostel) is well-located above Vieux Lyon – rooms should cost around 14 Euros. 40-45 montee du Chemin Neuf; Métro: Vieux Lyon; +33 (0)4 78 15 05 50 The Hotel Croix Rousse is a nice, clean two-star hotel, with free parking on nearby streets. A double room should cost around 45 euros. 157 boulevard de la Croix Rousse; Métro: Croix Rousse; +33 (0)4 78 28 29 85 If you can afford it, then why not pop in for a night at La Tour Rose? Expect to pay up to 520 Euros for a double room for this lavish, four-star hotel, where parts of the building date back to the Thirteenth Century. One of the restaurants even has a Michelin star. 22 rue du Boeuf; Métro: Vieux Lyon; +33 (0)4 78 92 69 10 Did you know…? The headquarters of the international police network, Interpol, have been in Lyon since May 1, 1989.

Words by: Tim Peach