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Udine
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Football Italia City Guide
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| Udine, in the Friuli part of Italy’s far North-eastern region of Friuli-Venezia-Giulia, displays a curious mix of elegant Venetian and solid Germanic influences. The asymmetrical town centre is laced with streams, locally known as rogge, and dotted with a large number of hostelries. Udinese’s black and white symbol can be seen frequently throughout the town on buildings and signs because apart from being the team emblem it is also that of the town. |
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 Stadio: Friuli
The Friuli, with its curved UFO-like shape and 40,000-plus capacity, is an impressive sight. Built in 1976 it has since been revamped and was used for Italia ‘90 World Cup games. Nowadays the Bianconeri fans fill the Curva Nord, while visiting supporters are allocated a section of the Curva Sud. The stadium is situated North-west of the city centre. To get there catch bus No 2 from outside the railway station. |
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 Match Tickets
Book your tickets through the Fogolar Viaggi agency (www.ucvfogolar.it/udinese/english.htm). It’s a travel agency based in Udine at Viale Ungheria 5. Easiest to call them on 0039-0432-503113 or email directly through the website to order and then pick up your tickets at the stadium on matchday from the Sportello Accrediti counter outside the Tribuna Nord.
Football Italia Ticket Info |
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 Out & About
> Piazza Liberta, Udine’s main square, boasts a great architectural ensemble. The Venetian style pink Town Hall dominates one side, while one of the towers opposite is topped by a close copy of Venice’s majestic bronze bell ringers. Below is a curious sundial.
> The Udinese Store, in Via Mercatovecchio 26, just off Piazza Liberta sells a vast assortment of goods all with the team’s black and white logo. This, like most shops, closes for several hours over lunchtime. Further down the same road is the tiny Santa Maria chapel, glass-fronted and lit up like a shop window. The cloud frescoes make an interesting interlude among the shops.
> The Castle is up the slope behind Piazza Liberta. Largely rebuilt after the devastating earthquake in 1976 the Castle, now housing an art gallery, is an imposing square building. The arcaded approach is more quaintly attractive and the twelfth century Santa Maria del Castello church in the grounds, one of Udine’s oldest churches, is worth a look, particularly for its wooden ceiling and ancient frescoes.
> Piazza Matteotti used to be the main square and is still home to a weekly Saturday market. At one time mass was held on the balcony of the San Giacomo church so trading didn’t have to stop!
> Art fans should visit the Palazzo Arcivescovale with its amazing frescoes, mostly by the great renaissance painter Tiepolo.
> Go to Cividale del Friuli by train, it’s 17km out of the centre. Wander round the ancient walled town founded by Julius Caesar. Go over the 15th century Ponte del Diavolo - Devil’s Bridge - and explore the Ipogeo Celtico, a kind of Celtic cavern with weird facial carvings on the walls.
> If you have time, head into the Carnia Mountains north of Udine. It’s a great area for walking and skiing. Explore the mountain refuges for real Friulian hospitality.
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Food & Drink
The Germanic influence is very much in evidence in Friulian cuisine, dishes tending to be filling and simple. Try Ciassous - a local ravioli-style pasta filled with sweet and spicy tangy herbs. Polenta, the yellow cornmeal mush common throughout Northern Italy can be fried, boiled or baked and is often served around here with a cheese sauce. Brovada is a local side dish made with chopped turnips stewed in grape dregs. The local ham, called San Daniele after the area where it’s produced, is delicious.
The wines of the region are widely respected and there is a great variety. Two local reds to try are Schiopiettino and Refosco, both make a good accompaniment to the local food. The Friulians are great grappa drinkers and coffee with a dash of the strong liqueur is not an unusual breakfast beverage.
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Restaurants
Udine has an abundance of wooden-tabled hostelries serving a variety of wines and local dishes. Here is a selection of the best.
> Osteria Sbarco dei Pirati. Riva Bartolini 12 (Tel: 0039-0432-21330). Picturesque hostelry, a bit like a mountain refuge, it changes its menu of local specialities daily. A collection of implements scatters the ceiling, including pans to catch the raindrops falling through the leaking roof! Closed Sundays.
> Casa della Contadinanza, Castello. This bar/restaurant up the castle slope is run by the local produce consortium. Great views. On a fine day you can see from the sea to the Alps! Come here to sample Friulian delights in a warm atmosphere.
> Alle Volte. Via Merceria 6 (Tel: 0039-0432-502800). Slightly more upmarket restaurant in a lovely vaulted brick-lined cellar.
> Osteria Da Teresina. Via P. Sarpi 10b (Tel: 0039-0432-509834). Another wooden tabled osteria where you can try the local wines and food.
> Osteria Trattoria Le Maddalene Sporcje. Via Pelliccerie 4 (Tel: 0039-0432-25111). Just off Piazza Matteotti - more Friulian fare.
> Trattoria All’Allegria. Via Grazzano 18 (Tel: 0039-0432-505921). A good road for eating places - this one is cosy, cheap and serves delicious local dishes.
> Da Ciccio. Via Grazzano 11. Head down the same road to Ciccio’s if you fancy a pizza.
> Caffè Contarena. Via Cavour 1a. Impressive bar just off the main square, Piazza Liberta. Split into two sections, part luminous mosaic-lined bar, part wood panelled wine cellar with low lights.
> Pasticceria Fogoletto. Via Vittorio Veneto 36. Well-established cake shop and bar in a 14th century building. Relax upstairs with a coffee and Austrian-style cake.
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Accomodation
> Vecchia Locanda Al Bue (Via Pracchiuso 75, Tel: 0039-0432-299070 www.locandaalbue.it). This cosy hotel just beyond the castle is also an osteria serving food.
> Hotel Cristallo (Piazzale D’Annunzio 43, Tel: 0039-0432-501919 www.cristallohotel.com). One of several decent hotels near the station.
> Hotel Principe (Viale Europa Unita 51, Tel: 0039 0432 506000 www.principe-hotel.it). Another place to stay near the station.
> Ambassador Palace Hotel (Via Carducci 46, Tel: 0039-0432-503777 www.ambassadorpalacehotel.it). Book into this plush 4-star establishment if you want to treat yourself well.
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Getting there...
Udine’s nearest airport is at Trieste and has a bus link to Udine. Buy your bus ticket from the booth before boarding and remember to stamp it on the bus (3.5 Euros one way). Ryanair - www.ryanair.com - flies here from Stansted.
Alternatively get a flight to Venice airport. From here go by bus the short distance to Venice-Mestre station then take a train to Udine. Fly to Venice with British Airways from Gatwick, with Easyjet (www.easyjet.com) from Stansted, Bristol or East Midlands or else with Volareweb (www.volareweb.com) from Luton.
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Local lingo
Un caffè corretto grappa per favore - A coffee with a dash of grappa, please. A common local variation.
Bianconeri ale! - Come on you Bianconeri. Join in the rousing chorus of encouragement whether or not Udinese are performing well!
Mi sono perso - I’m lost, easily done among central Udine’s winding roads.
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Compiled by: Sarah Lane
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