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Siena
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Football Italia City Guide
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| Siena is widely regarded as one of the most beautiful cities in Italy. With a medieval centre and famous shell-shaped Piazza del Campo, it is renowned for the wild Palio horserace. The typically Tuscan characteristic of an enthusiastic and almost ferocious rivalry is surprisingly strong between the city districts, especially at Palio time. But what unites the Sienese is their love and support for AC Siena. Legend has it that Siena was founded by Senio - son of Remus, one of the founders of Rome - and statues and images of the wolf with Romulus and Remus can be seen around Siena and, of course, on the team emblem. |
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 Stadio: Artemio Franchi
Siena’s tree-lined stadium, also known as Il Rastrello - The Rake - is extremely picturesque, but with a 13,400 capacity, very small. The stadium’s location just outside the medieval centre makes it easy to reach, but at the same time problematic for the numbers of fans Serie A draws. The Curva San Domenico end has been extended, increasing capacity by about 3,000. The stadium is just a short stroll from Piazza del Campo, just off Piazza San Domenico where long distance buses arrive. If you are coming by train, catch bus No 9 or 3 to the stadium. |
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 Match Tickets
Tickets are on sale from the Wednesday before a match, but can be booked on the Tuesday at the two outlets in the centre of Siena. Go to Via dei Termini 14 (Ricevitoria Liberati, Tel: 0039-577- 46483) or Via Pantaneto 154 (Fabbri Emanuele, Tel: 0039-577-284352) to get your tickets. Online sales are so far unavailable but take a look at the website www.acsiena.it to find out more.
If you want to be among the most choreographic of the Siena fans get tickets for the Curva Robur. They cost about 20 Euros for men and 15 for women, children and over 65s.
Football Italia Ticket Info |
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 Out & About
> Wander around the 17 city districts. They have wonderful names, colourful wall tiles and statues to tell you where you are. It is likely you’ll see some drumming or flag throwing practice in preparation for the Palio whatever time of year you visit.
> Piazza del Campo, Siena’s magnificent main square, is where the Palio is staged. Join the tourists and students always scattered on the curved pinkish brick slope at the centre. Go up the Torre del Mangia at the bottom of the square for some spectacular views. Incidentally the tower that dominates the campus at Birmingham University is a copy of this one.
> Both inside and out Siena’s cathedral is an amazing concentration of artistic beauty. The black and white striped theme of the bell tower is echoed in the highly decorated exterior and interior of the Duomo. The plan to enlarge it, concocted in the fourteenth century, was never completed which left a mysterious free-standing wall at the edge of the square.
> Saint Catherine’s birthplace is an airy courtyard with views over the countryside and is encircled by various rooms, some of which have been converted into chapels since Catherine lived there.
> The walls of the Forte di Santa Barbara fortification beyond the stadium contain a formal garden. One of the towers is home of the Enoteca Italica - a permanent exhibition of the most important Italian wines.
> Plenty of shops sell ceramics and local produce - wine, salami and pasta. For a good selection of Chianti try the Fattoria del Gallo Nero in Via Sapienza 35 which is near the stadium.
> For AC Siena merchandising go to Noi Sport in Via Terme 81.
> A great way to see the Tuscan countryside is with the Treno Natura - a steam train that does a round trip through the scenic area surrounding Siena. Timings vary according to the season - check at the station or the information office in Piazza del Campo.
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Food & Drink
> Tuscany in general is famous for its top quality wines and mouth-watering Fiorentina steaks. The Chianina is a particularly succulent variety - prices for steaks on menus are often by the 100g - etto - so you can choose the weight of your steak.
> Tuscan bread is also famous, although on its own it can be pretty dull, as it is without salt. Here they use it to make the filling Ribollita soup and even as a main ingredient for a salad, called Panzanella.
> The rich Sienese panforte cake was originally made for the crusaders to take with them on their travels.
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Restaurants
> Antica Osteria Da Divo (Via Francioso 25) Great Tuscan cuisine. Beautifully maintained ancient stone walls.
> La Chiacchiera (Costa di Sant’Antonio 4) Tasty local specialities - sit outside on the steep slope for views of the rooftops and the never finished Duomo extension.
> Osteria Vinaio Da Trombicche (Via delle Terme 66) Small and simple, run by AC Siena fans Bobbe and Ghigo. Great cold salumi - cold meats.
> Osteria San Paolo (Vicolo San Paolo) Entrance in alley just off Piazza del Campo. If you’re lucky you’ll get on to the tiny balcony overlooking the square itself.
> Ristorante Medio Evo (Via dei Rossi 40) Interesting food in suggestive medieval style surroundings.
> Malborghetto Pizzeria (Piazza Mercato) Has a choice of views - look out over the Tuscan hills one way or turn around for an intriguing back view of Siena itself.
> For takeaway rolls made fresh to order go to the delicatessen Il Capperino (Via Sapienza 16 Nannini, Banchi di Sopra 22) Siena’s most prestigious cake shop, now also a bar, sells pieces of panforte by the weight. Famous members of the Nannini family are Alessandro, the former Formula One driver and his sister - one of Italy’s best known female rock singers, Gianna.
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Accomodation
> Hotel Chiusarelli (Viale Curtatone 15, Tel: 0039-577-280562) Backs on to the stadium - be sure to ask for a room with a view over the pitch.
> Albergo Duomo (Via Stalloreggi 38, Tel: 0039-577-289088) Very near the Duomo and opposite a great wine store.
> Casalbergo (Via del Paradiso 54, Tel: 0039-577-281458) Just round the corner from the stadium. Cheaper rooms - no breakfast.
> Grand Hotel Continental (Via Banchi di Sopra 85, Tel: 0039-577-44204) If you feel like splashing out, this is central Siena’s top hotel.
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Getting there...
Fly to Florence airport with Meridiana www.meridiana.it or Alitalia www.alitalia.it from Gatwick.
Catch the bus the short distance to Florence bus station - from here there are frequent services to Siena that take about one hour.
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Local lingo
Una Chianina di cinque etti per me - A 500g Chianina steak for me
Questo è un ottimo Chianti! - This is a top quality Chianti!
Vorrei comprare quella sciarpa di Siena - I’d like to buy that Siena scarf
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Compiled by: Sarah Lane
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