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Milan
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Football Italia City Guide
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Although so far unsuccessful in its half-hearted bid to become the national capital, Milan is certainly the main city of Italy’s north and it’s home to a good part of the nation’s industry, creativity and general wealth, not to mention two of Europe’s top football teams – Milan and Inter. The vibrant city is symbolised not so much by its monuments as its influential position in the world of fashion and sport. But, however dynamic and forward thinking they may be, the people of Milan still pay great attention to the city’s patron saint, Sant’Ambrogio, whose feast day on December 7 causes the entire city to shut down and party.
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 Stadio: Giuseppe Meazza
Capable of holding 85,700, the San Siro is Italy’s largest and one of Europe’s most prestigious stadiums. Located in the west of the city centre it was inaugurated 79 years ago in 1926 with a local derby, in which Milan were beaten 6-3 by city rivals Inter. The easiest way to get there is by metro. Take the red line, MM1, to the Lotto stop. The stadium is a short walk from here. |
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 Match Tickets
Tickets are available online through the club website - www.inter.it - there’s an English version. Otherwise go to New Milan Point in the Navigli district. Three sides of the stadium have three high tiers of seating, the third installed for the Italia ‘90 World Cup. If you suffer from vertigo avoid buying tickets for the highest tier.
Football Italia Ticket Info |
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 Out & About
> San Siro Stadium tour, museum & shop: Take a behind the scenes tour of the San Siro and visit the museum dedicated to world football, with plenty of mementoes and history of the city’s two major clubs. The museum is open daily 10am - 5pm (except match days when it closes half an hour before kick-off).
> New Milan Point (Piazza XXIV Maggio, Navigli): Quite hard to spot, it’s at the back of the square under the portico. The ticket office is on the ground floor. Head downstairs for the café, and down again for a shop selling the usual souvenirs. It’s worth a visit just for all the interesting Inter and Milan paraphernalia on display.
> Duomo: Milan’s spectacular spiky cathedral is the fourth largest church in the world. The cavernous interior is pretty austere, but outside the mass of gothic pinnacles and statues topped by a gilded Madonna is an amazing sight. Don’t miss the roof terraces.
> Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II: To the left of Piazza Duomo, this famous glass roofed arcade is impressive. Among more upmarket shops and cafés there’s even an elegant McDonalds.
> Go through the Galleria Vittorio Emanuele from Piazza Duomo to get to the world famous theatre, Teatro Alla Scala. The theatre and its museum were reopened last December after extensive restoration. To book tickets online for performances go to www.teatroallascala.org.
> Leonardo da Vinci’s recently restored masterpiece, The Last Supper, is kept at the Santa Maria delle Grazie convent. You have to book to see it, either online through http://cenacolovinciano.org/english/ or by phone (0039-0289-421146).
> Go for a walk in the grounds of the imposing Castello Sforzesco. The castle, standing behind a huge fountain, houses a variety of museums all of which are free.
> Go shopping. All the famous names and prestigious designer shops are within the quadrilatero d’oro (golden quad) between Via Monte Napoleone, Via della Spiga, Via Borospesso and Via Sant’Andrea. Corso Vittorio Emanuele II has many of the big department and chain stores. Don’t miss the Navigli Market on a Saturday, which stretches along the canal-side and lasts all day.
> Peck (Via Spadari 9): This top quality, legendary delicatessen has been open since 1883. There’s also a wine shop downstairs, a café upstairs and a spectacular ice-cream counter.
> C-Side disco (Via Castelbarco 11 - Navigli district): Dance the night away at the C-Side and keep your eyes open for celebrities. The club is part owned by Milan players Christian Abbiati, Gennaro Gattuso and Christian Brocchi.
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Food & Drink
Milan’s best-known dish is the simple but tasty risotto alla milanese. It gets its flavour and yellow colour from saffron. Another local speciality is the cotoletta alla milanese - veal fried in breadcrumbs - while ossobuco is a kind of chunky, veal shin casserole. Frogs are also quite common on Milan menus, and so are risottos, as there are a lot of rice fields not far from the city. Try ris e ran - frog risotto! For dessert go for the torta di tagliatelle - a delicious combination of tagliatelle pasta and almonds. Being so urbanised, Milan itself is of course not a wine producer, but the Lombardy region has plenty to offer. The reds are best - go for the full-bodied Franciacorta.
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Restaurants
The Navigli canal area is the ideal destination if you’re looking for interesting eateries. Although not really pretty, the canal scenery is certainly atmospheric. Three of the top spots are right next door to one another.
> Osteria del Pallone (Viale Gorizia 30, Tel: 0039-02-58105641). This old style football hostelry on the corner of the Naviglio Grande canal is open daily until 2 am. Sit outside to watch the world go by.
> Trattoria Milanese (Viale Gorizia 30, Tel: 0039-02-8357670). Right next door to the Osteria del Pallone this trattoria, as its name suggests, specialises in local dishes.
> Premiata Pizzeria (Alzaia Naviglio Grande 2, Tel: 0039-02-89400648). If you fancy a pizza, this award-winning pizzeria with a pretty courtyard is a good choice.
> Osteria dell’Operetta (Corso di Porta Ticinese 70, Tel: 0039-02-89407426). Lively eatery serving traditional fare, also in the Navigli district.
> Panino giusto (Piazza XXIV Maggio 4, Tel: 0039-02-58103461). An upbeat, wooden-tabled hostelry opposite the main canal. Tasty sandwiches and rolls with interesting combinations of fillings.
Some places not in the Navigli district:
> Hostaria Borromei (Via Borromei 4, Tel: 0039-02-86453760). Come here for delicious risotto alla milanese and ossobuco, or any of the other local specialities on the menu.
> Cracco Peck (Via V. Hugo 4, Tel: 0039-02-876774). Situated just around the corner from the Peck delicatessen, this restaurant is under the same management. Local specialities and imaginative cooking set off by an extensive wine list.
> Ice Bar (Piazza Gerusalemme 12). Europe’s second ice bar - the first is in Stockholm - is just north of Milan’s city centre. With a temperature inside of minus 5, the cloaks and boots lent at the door are welcome. Come in for a quick drink - vodka or fruit juice only – served in glasses made of ice that melt as you drink.
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Accomodation
> Grand Hotel Duomo (Via San Raffaele 1, Tel: 0039-02-8833, www.grandhotelduomo.com). If you decide to stay in an upmarket hotel choose this one. Situated just to the left of the Duomo, it has spectacular views from the leafy roof terrace.
> Hotel Sir Edward (Via Mazzini 4, Tel: 0039-02-87787 www.hotelsiredward.it). Conveniently placed, clean and comfortable 4-star hotel, just off Piazza Duomo.
> Hotel Ariston (Largo Carrobbio 2, Tel: 0039-02-72000556, http://aristonhotel.com). This central hotel has a strong green policy - it’s environmentally friendly from the cleaning products used to the air conditioning system. You can even borrow a bicycle, free, to pedal around central Milan.
> Hotel San Siro Fiera (Via Novara 371, Tel: 0039-02-48206349, http://sansirofiera.hotelsinmilan.it). A good alternative very near the stadium, but perhaps a bit inconvenient for visiting the centre.
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Getting there...
Milan’s two main airports (www.sea-aeroportimilano.it/) are well served from the UK. The most convenient is Linate, just 7km east of the city. This one has the most UK flights BA: www.britishairways.com, Alitalia: www.alitalia.it, Easyjet: www.easyjet.com, and BMI: www.flybmi.com all fly here. Central Milan is just a 20-minute bus or taxi ride away.
Malpensa airport is further out, about 50km north-west of the city, and has flights from Heathrow and Birmingham with BA and Alitalia. The Malpensa Shuttle bus (5 Euros each way) or Malpensa Express train (9 Euros single or 12 Euros return) take you into Milan.
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Local lingo
"Chi ha segnato?" - "Who scored?"
"Ris e ran per due, per favore" - "Frog risotto for two, please."
"Quanto costa?" - "How much is it?"
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Compiled by: Sarah Lane
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