|
|
|
|
Livorno
|
Football Italia City Guide
|
|
| Livorno - or Leghorn as it is officially known in English - is situated on a stretch of Tuscany's west coast known as the Etruscan Riviera, and has been an important port since the Middle Ages. Today it is probably best known in Italy as the place you go to get the ferry for Sardinia. But Livorno, with its two castles linked by a picturesque knot of canals, has plenty to make for a pleasant visit. Add to this an extreme enthusiasm for the football club, in Serie A for the first time since 1949, and the Tuscan town is an ideal destination away from the tourist trail. |
|
 Stadio: Armando Picchi
Livorno's stadium has a capacity of 18,200. It was built in the 1930s and originally named after Mussolini's wife, Edda. Following World War II it was used more by the US troops for American football than by the locals, though, and shed its controversial name, becoming known as the Yankee Stadium. The structure was finally dedicated to former Livorno player and Coach, Armando Picchi, in 2000.
The stadium is not far from the town centre, in an area known as the sports district, where horseracing, basketball and rugby events also take place. The nicest way to get there from the town centre is by foot along the palm-lined seafront. Otherwise catch a bus - No 5 from Piazza Grande will take you there.
|
|
 Match Tickets
Book match tickets online through www.ticketone.it then either pick them up from the stadium on match day or, to avoid the queues, have them sent to your hotel.
You can also buy tickets directly in Livorno from the following:
- Punto Amaranto, The club's shop at the stadium (opening hours are limited – see below).
- Punto SNAI. Betting shop, Viale Carducci 287, on the way to the station.
- Toto terzo, Piazza Mazzini 81, near the port.
Football Italia Ticket Info |
|
Out & About
> The picturesque Porto Mediceo, over the bridge from Piazza Micheli, is dominated by one of the town's two 16th Century red brick castles, the Fortezza Vecchia. The castle is not open to the public, and is unfortunately in obvious need of renovation. But it is certainly striking, set amongst a swarm of fishing boats and against a backdrop of imposing cruise ships.
> Despite its name, the Fortezza Nuova was built only 60 years later than the first castle and is in a slightly better state of repair and is open to the public.
> The area laced with canals, or Fossi as they are called here, around the Fortezza Nuova is called the Quartiere Venezia. Take a trip on the canals with the Marco Polo. The boat leaves from Scali d'Azeglio, near the Fortezza Vecchia, and gives a fascinating view of Livorno from the water.
> A legacy of Livorno's US military base is the Mercato Americano (American Market) in Piazza XX Settembre. There's a wide variety of army surplus and camping gear on sale, not all of it American, as well as ordinary clothes stalls and others selling US products such as biscuits and shampoo.
> You can get all sorts of AS Livorno souvenirs from the Punto Amaranto shop at the stadium, but most tobacconists in the centre also sell a wide variety of the club's merchandise.
> Other shopping opportunities are in the streets around the main square, Piazza Grande, and the pedestrian Via del Giglio. Rugby enthusiasts should head for Rugby Point in Piazza della Repubblica. The square itself, situated behind the Fortezza Nuova, and dominated by a couple of huge statues in Roman robes, is worth a look.
> Stroll from the Porto Mediceo towards the stadium along the palm-lined seafront. Stop about halfway along at the Terrazza Mascagni and Gazebo for great sea views.
> Take the train to Pisa - less than 20 minutes. The world famous leaning tower in Campo dei Miracoli is a sight not to be missed. The strangest thing about it is that the tower started to lean whilst being built and was actually finished like that.
|
|
Food & Drink
Being a busy fishing port, Livorno's a place where you can eat plenty of fresh fish without paying through the nose. But being Tuscany you can also find hearty meat dishes, such as chianina beef or cinghiale (wild boar).
> The town's main speciality is Cacciucco, a spicy and chunky fish stew traditionally made from odds and ends of fish, containing at least five different types. Drink red wine with it, rather than white.
> Trippa alla Livornese is another famous dish originating in Livorno - tripe cooked in a tasty sauce of tomatoes and olives.
> For a satisfying snack try a Cinque cinque made from chickpea flour dough and bread. It gained its name as originally each of the two parts cost just five lire.
To digest, try a hot Ponce Livornese. It's made to a secret recipe that includes espresso coffee, rum and cognac.
|
|
Restaurants
> Ristorante Le Volte Medicee (Via Calafati 4, Tel: 0039-586-896868). Get a table on the covered terrace out the back, facing the fishing port. Relax and enjoy fresh fish and a great view.
> L’Ancora (Scali delle Ancore 10, Tel: 0039-586-881401). Right on the canal-side, this trattoria has a lovely vaulted brick ceiling and serves traditional local dishes.
> Il Rifugio (Via Enrico Mayer 80, Tel: 0039-586-211942). A good idea to book if you want to eat here, as this tiny trattoria is very popular.
> Sottomarino (Via Terrazzini 48/50, Tel 0039-586-887025). Great for delicious cacciucco in a friendly environment.
> Trattoria Vecchia Livorno (Scali delle Cantine 34, Tel: 0039-586-884048). Another good place for local specialities. This one's opposite the Fortezza Nuova.
> La Volpe e l'Uva (Viale Caprera 11, Tel: 0039-586-885033). Try Livorno's traditional Cous cous recipe in this relaxed hostelry.
> Pizzeria Baby Luna (Viale Italia 89-91, Tel: 0039-586-807391). A good choice for pizza, near the stadium. There’s a big screen satellite TV, so you can keep up with the football action while you eat.
> The Barge (Scali delle Ancore 6, Tel: 0039-586-888320). You can eat at this lively canal-side pub with boat-shaped tables, but perhaps best to come just for a drink.
|
|
Accomodation
> Hotel Gran Duca (Piazza Micheli 16, Tel: 0039-586-891024, www.granduca.it). This attractive hotel in part of the town's 16th Century fortifications is just opposite the entrance to the Porto Mediceo. The hotel also has its own good quality restaurant overlooking the fishing boats.
> Hotel Atleti (Via dei Pensieri 50, Tel: 0039-586-502409, www.hotelatleti.com). Comfortable hotel right by the stadium.
> Hotel Touring (Via Goldoni 61, Tel: 0039-586-898035). More modest, but clean and efficient, in the town centre.
Two other hotels, currently being restored, but due to reopen very soon:
> Hotel Al Teatro (Via Enrico Mayer 42, Tel: 0039-586-898705). Formerly the Hotel Goldoni, this hotel is centrally placed in an attractive building opposite the Goldoni Theatre.
> Albergo Stazione (Viale Carducci 301, Tel: 0039-586-402307). As its name suggests, it's just down the road from the station.
|
|
Getting there...
Fly to Pisa airport with British Airways (www.britishairways.com) from Gatwick or with Ryanair (www.ryanair.com) from Stansted or Glasgow Prestwick.
Pisa airport is about 20km from Livorno and the easiest way to get there is to take the train directly from the airport railway station and change at Pisa central. If you're in for a long wait, take bus No 3 from the airport to Pisa central station and continue by train to Livorno.
For train timetables see www.trenitalia.com
|
|
Local lingo
Boia dé! - "Blimey!" Typical interjection in Livorno, that doesn't really mean anything at all.
Posso provarlo? - "Can I try it on?" Useful at the American market, or elsewhere, if you want the right size.
Con vista mare, per favore – "With a sea view, please." Worth asking when getting a room in a hotel or a table at a restaurant!
|
|
Compiled by: Sarah Lane
Channel 4 is not responsible for the content of third party sites
|
|
|
