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Brescia
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Football Italia City Guide
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| Brescia, near Milan in the Lombardy region of Northern Italy, is often overlooked as just a smoky industrial sprawl. But whilst the area is home to a lot of Italy’s iron and steel production, Brescia has a charming centre full of history and character, dominated by a majestic hilltop castle. The name Brescia actually derives from an ancient word for hill. |
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 Stadio: Mario Rigamonti
Built in 1928, the stadium was renovated in the 50s and named after Mario Rigamonti, a former Brescia player who died in the tragic 1949 Superga air disaster, that wiped out the entire Torino team on their way back from a game in Lisbon.
Brescia's new 25,000 all-seater stadium at Castenedolo, 10 kms south of town, should be ready in time for the 2005-06 season. Meanwhile, to get to the 27,547-capacity Rigamonti, about 12 kms north of Brescia, catch bus C or D from outside the railway station.
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 Match Tickets
There are several ticket outlets around town:
> Bar Aquarium in Piazza Loggia is probably the most convenient.
> Ricevitoria Dusi (Corso Zanardelli 13) - also central.
> Otherwise you can get tickets from any branch of the Banco di Brescia – plenty of these, including one in the main square, Piazza Loggia.
To be in amongst the Brescia fans choose the Curva Nord. Visiting supporters go in the Sud. N.B. There are reductions for women and under 14s.
Football Italia Ticket Info |
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 Out & About
The old centre of Brescia is a curious jumble of adjoining squares and buildings all very different from each other.
> Piazza della Loggia, Brescia's main square, is dominated by an astonishingly complex astronomical clock. Pop into the tourist office here for maps and plenty of helpful advice
> In Piazza Paolo VI two cathedrals, ‘the old and the new,’ stand side by side. The circular medieval Duomo Vecchio, also known as Rotonda, is far more interesting than the larger baroque Duomo Nuovo. On the other side of the square, the medieval town hall, Il Broletto, is famous for its frescoes.
> The other main square in the centre is the imposing Piazza Vittoria dating from the fascist era.
> In stark contrast, not far down Via dei Musei you'll find one of Northern Italy's most impressive Roman sites. The Capitolium, with its huge columns and the brilliantly preserved ancient frescoes, are not to be missed.
> Further down the same road is the Santa Giulia Museo della Città. This recently renovated complex is large and includes a royal palace and a monastery as well as an extensive exhibition of Roman and Medieval artefacts. One of the only places not to close for several hours at lunchtime.
> Brescia's castle, known simply as Il Castello, is certainly worth the short but steep climb up the cobbled slope. Weapons enthusiasts should visit the Historical Arms Museum, Museo delle Armi Antiche, inside the castle - one of Europe's largest collections. Otherwise just take your time to wander round the extensive grounds that are scattered with curious tunnels and staircases and enjoy the views over the town & of the hills behind. A good place to relax.
Brescia is very close to two of Italy's most famous lakes - Iseo & Garda.
> For Lake Iseo catch a bus or the special train to Sulzano and from here go by boat for five minutes across to the tiny fishing village of Peschiera Maraglio on Montisola, Europe’s largest and highest lake island. Good walking.
> If you plan to visit Lake Garda take a bus to Sirmione, an attractive, busy beach where you can swim, windsurf and so on.
The bus station in Brescia is just round the corner from the railway station.
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Food & Drink
Northern Italians are often known as Polentoni after the cornmeal polenta they frequently eat as an alternative to pasta or rice. Served with just about anything, try it with Brescia's local speciality cheese, bagoss, with mushrooms (funghi) or with cod (baccalà).
> The best local wine is the Franciacorta (both red & white). Another good one is the Riviera del Garda.
> Pasta fans should go for the huge ravioli-like Casoncelli (or casonsèi in dialect) filled with spinach & sage.
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Restaurants
The lanes and alleys around Piazza Loggia and Piazza Paolo VI are literally crammed with bars and eating places. Here are a few to try that all serve local specialities:
> La Vineria (Via X Giornate 4, Tel. 030 280477): Good cheap local food (try the polenta & funghi) in an attractive 16th century building. Over 600 wines on the list.
> Gargantua (Piazza Tito Speri 11, Tel. 030 2906463): The cobbled slope up to the castle starts from here. In good weather eat on the terrace under the trees.
> Osteria della Luna Piena (Via A. Calini 3, Tel. 030 2808753): Good food in relaxed and rustic surroundings.
> Ristorante Enrico VIII (Vicolo S. Agostino 7/A, Tel. 030 49393): Homemade pasta; try the Lasagne al Lepre (hare).
> The Golden Lion (Via Cesare Beccaria 10b, Tel. 335 84 60 35 6): Come to this so-called ‘Irish pub’ for a pint and a plate of polenta.
> Caffè della Stampa (Piazza Loggia 6): Well-established café in the main square. Sit in the sun with a cappuccino or an aperitivo and try to fathom the workings of the astronomical clock. The café sometimes hosts small photographic or art exhibitions.
> Sorelle Archetti (Montisola, Tel. 030 988 61 37): If you go to Lake Iseo's island eat here. Good for fish.
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Accomodation
> Hotel Duomo (Via Cesare Beccaria 17, Tel. +39 030 3758571, Fax +39 030 3758669, duomosas@virgilio.it): Pleasant & friendly, right in the centre of the old town, just off Piazza Paolo VI.
> Hotel Vittoria (Via X Giornate 20, Tel. +39 030 280061, Fax +39 030 280065, info@hotelvittoria.com): If you feel like treating yourself, check into this plush five-star hotel just behind Piazza Vittoria.
> Jolly Igea (Viale Stazione 15, Tel. +39 030 44221, Fax +39 030 44224, brescia@jollyhotels.it): Part of the Italian hotel chain called Jolly. Clean & efficient.
> Hotel Cristallo (Viale Stazione 12/A, Tel. +39 030 3772468, Fax +39 030 3772603, www.hotelcristallobrescia.com/en/hotel.htm): A well-kept alternative near the station.
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Getting there...
Simplest is to fly directly to Brescia’s Montichiari airport with Ryanair (www.ryanair.com). A special bus connects with all incoming flights to take you the 20 km into Brescia.
Ryanair also flies to Milano Orio airport near Bergamo (45 km from Brescia). There is a bus service to Brescia from here too.
British Airways (www.britishairways.com) flies to Verona (about 60 km from Brescia). From here you’ll have to get the shuttle bus to Verona station and a train to Brescia (about 40 minutes).
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Local lingo
E' un baloss! - "He's a sly one!" When yet another diver gets rewarded with a penalty.
Tripletta di Sculli! - "A hat trick from Sculli!" Use this either to prophesy or celebrate a good day for the young striker.
A che ora riapre? - "What time does it reopen?" Don't plan sightseeing for late morning - just about everything closes for three hours in the middle of the day.
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Compiled by: Sarah Lane
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