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Bergamo
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Football Italia City Guide
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From stunning views to 12th Century castles, Bergamo – the home of Atalanta – has plenty to offer. The town of Bergamo is divided in two - the città alta, the beautiful historic upper town, and città bassa, the more modern urban sprawl of the lower town. Bergamo's città alta is one of Italy's best-kept secrets. Enclosed by walls built by the Venetians in the 16th Century and set against a breathtaking backdrop of the Alps, the old town is a fascinating mixture of Venetian and alpine culture and architecture. Venice, in fact, ruled in Bergamo for over 350 years and, among other features, left a legacy of Venetian winged lions scattered around the town. Bergamo was actually founded by a Celtic tribe, the Orobi, hence the club's nickname Orobici. The town is also known as the Città dei Mille or City of the Thousand, due to the support given to Garibaldi during his unification campaigns.
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 Stadio: Atleti Azzurri d'Italia
With a capacity of 26,542 the Stadio Atleti Azzurri d’Italia was inaugurated in 1928. Originally named after Mario Brumana, a Fascist martyr, the stadium's name has since been changed and it's now dedicated to Italy's national athletes. The most vociferous part of the fan base is well known for their left-wing views. Che Guevara flags abound in the Curva Pisani section where they hang out.
It is within walking distance of the town centre - both lower and upper. Alternatively bus No 9 will take you there from the lower town, starting from outside the station in Piazzale Marconi. Go to Atalanta’s official website at www.atalanta.it for further details.
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 Match Tickets
To get your tickets for the Azzuri d'Italia you'll have to venture into the lower town. The Credito Bergamasco Bank in Largo Porta Nuova is quite conveniently placed, as is the tobacconist at Via Papa Giovanni XXIII 58. Both are on the route between the railway and funicular stations. The tobacconist also sells Atalanta souvenirs, including a must-have Nerazzurri packets of tissues for 25 cents!
Tickets can also be bought at the Lottomatica lottery point right by the stadium at Viale G. Cesare 16/b, or at any of a number of other lottery points scattered around the town. There's one at the bus station in Piazzale Marconi.
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 Out & About
When you get to Bergamo head straight for the Città Alta - the old walled town that sits above the modern shopping, industrial and residential zones.
>The funicular is the best means of transport up to the old town. It has been running since 1887 and the station is at the top end of Viale Vittorio Emanuele II.
>Piazza Vecchia is the beautiful heart of the old town. The ensemble of buildings includes the imposing white Palazzo Nuovo and the 12th Century Palazzo della Ragione with a curiously complex sun clock on the open ground floor among the arches and columns. Next to this is the Torre Civica or Campanone. The tower's bell still rings out at 10pm each day to signal the one-time curfew, when the town gates were closed.
>Piazza del Duomo is right behind Piazza Vecchia. Go under the arches of Palazzo della Ragione. The cathedral itself is far overshadowed by another church – the extravagantly decorated 12th Century Santa Maria Maggiore. Outside, the most striking part is the Capella Colleoni, attached to the side of the main building. The church's plush interior is lined with a variety of frescoes and tapestries.
>La Rocca – the park surrounding this fortress, right in the middle of the old town - is a great place to relax and enjoy the views. The castle itself houses a museum on the Risorgimento and the Renaissance, and the park contains a variety of army memorabilia and monuments.
>Don't miss a trip up to Bergamo's other castle, the ruined Castello di San Vigilio. To get there either take the town's second funicular, just outside the Porta Sant'Alessandro gate, or walk up the steep Via San Vigilio. The views are spectacular.
>The 19th Century composer, Gaetano Donizetti, was born in Bergamo and you can visit his modest birthplace at Borgo Canale 14, just out of Porta Sant'Alessandro. The composer's tomb, in Santa Maria Maggiore, is curious, with its bas-relief of cherubs throwing tantrums.
>Art lovers shouldn't miss the Accademia Carrara. This gallery, founded in 1780, houses an impressive collection, including works by Titian, Botticelli & Canaletto. Closed Mondays and between 12.45 and 2.30 pm.
>Stock up on Nerazzurri souvenirs at Atalanta Point in the shopping area of the lower town (Via XX Settembre 100).
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Food & Drink
Bergamo's locally produced wine, Valcalepio, comes in both red and white. Both are pleasant and fairly light - good for an aperitivo. The local gastronomic specialities tend to be a bit on the filling side - good for keeping the cold alpine winds at bay. Casoncelli alla Bergamasca are meat-filled ravioli-type pasta - you can find them on the menu everywhere and, as in the rest of Lombardy, polenta dishes abound. Polenta taragna is a local variety cooked with butter and cheese. It generally comes served with various meats otherwise you can order a portion as a side dish.
Polenta e osèi is a fun, local sweet - it isn't really polenta at all. The yellow marzipan covered sponge just looks like polenta, and the birds on top are made of marzipan and chocolate.
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Restaurants
There is a vast selection of places to eat in Bergamo Alto, a fair number of which are on the pricey side - such as the top restaurants lining Piazza Vecchia, that include the internationally acclaimed Taverna del Colleoni e dell’Angelo (Tel. 0039 035 232596). In between, though, you can find plenty of affordable trattoria that tend to be more rustic and full of character.
>Vineria Cozzi (Via Colleoni 22, Tel: 0039-035-238836 www.vineriacozzi.it). This charming wine bar/restaurant established in 1848 serves a tasty variety of the local specialities. Jars of jam & preserves, and other produce, are also sold. The courtyard is heated so you can sit outside all year round.
>Trattoria Tre Torri (Piazza Mercato del Fieno 7/A, Tel: 0039-035-244366). It's a good idea to book at this attractive, little place tucked away at the back corner of a cobbled square. The menu is changed regularly to include all the local specialities.
>Antica Hosteria del Vino Buono (Via Donizetti 25 Tel: 0039-035-247993). Good food in a relaxed and pleasant atmosphere - just opposite the exit of the funicular. Only good quality local dishes are served, and the prices are not excessive.
>Pasticceria Donizetti (Via Gombito 17, Tel: 0039-035-242661). Despite its name this isn't a cake shop, but serves good wine and food in a relaxed and friendly atmosphere.
>Trattoria da Ornella (Via Gombito 15, Tel: 0039-035-232736). Polenta taragna is Ornella's speciality. It's directly opposite the Hotel Agnello d'Oro (see below).
>Nessi Panificio (Via Gombito 34). One of a chain of local bakeries that sells great take-away pizza. A good idea for a picnic lunch to take to the Rocca gardens.
>Pizzeria San Vigilio (Via San Vigilio 34, Tel: 0039-035-253188). Out of the cluster of restaurants near the top of the San Vigilio funicular, this one is perhaps the best, partly due to the magnificent views from the glass-covered terrace.
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Accomodation
> Agnello d'Oro (Via Gombito 22, Tel: 0039-035-249883). A cosy place to stay in a tall, narrow alpine-style building. The interior is full of an intriguing jumble of all kinds of antiques and the fountain in front tinkles away all day long. The hotel also has its own decent restaurant.
> Albergo Sole (Via Colleoni 1, Tel: 0039-035-218238). A very pleasant and centrally placed hotel with a good restaurant attached.
> Albergo San Lorenzo (Piazza Mascheroni 9A, Tel: 0039-035-237383, www.hotelsanlorenzobg.it). This comfortable, clean and well-kept hotel has Roman ruins in the grounds. They were found recently when digging to make an underground car park. Ask for a room with a view over the mountains.
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Getting there...
Bergamo's airport, Orio al Serio - www.sacbo.it - is only a few kilometres out of town. The frequent airport bus service runs throughout the day, taking you to opposite the train station in Piazzale Marconi in the lower town. It's a good idea to buy your tickets before getting on the bus - you can get them onboard, but they cost a bit more (2.50 Euros as opposed to 1.50 Euros).
There is also a handy bus service directly to the upper or old town, stopping at Porta S Alessandro, but it's less frequent. Ryanair - www.ryanair.com - has flights to Bergamo from Luton, Stansted, Glasgow, Liverpool and Newcastle.
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Local lingo
"Una camera con vista sulle montagne." - "A room with a view over the mountains."
"Un vino più corposo, per favore." - "A more full-bodied wine, please."
"Due biglietti per la Curva Pisani." - "Two tickets for the Curva Pisani"
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Compiled by: Sarah Lane
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