Aidan Jean-Marie is a senior booker at Premier Model Management.
He speaks exclusively to 4Beauty about how Premier creates super-star models, and why he doesn't think the size zero debate will change the fashion industry.
What's your role at Premier?
"I arrange appointments for models. I deal with requests from clients, and I propose certain models to them via email, phone calls and lunches. It's my job to know which stylists and casting directors are suited to which models, what look they're going for, and what's going on in the industry."
Do you keep certain models for certain clients?
"Yes. When you agree to represent a model, you have to think it through: what's she going to do? Who's she going to see? Where do you want her to be in a year's time, or two years' time? Leomie Anderson, who's one of our new faces, went to New York last year, did the shows, and has been working with particular magazines and stylists. We're getting offers from other publications but we're rejecting them, because we want her to follow a particular path - doing the full show circuit, the best magazines and eventually campaigns."
What are the biggest challenges of your job?
"It's all tough! The business has changed such a lot from the days when you had a brand new girl and everybody took a risk on her. Now you have a very small pool of individuals who will take a risk on a new model, and the competition is immense. The most crucial and difficult part is building up a relationship with casting directors and stylists. You say to them, 'I really like this girl, she's incredible.' They hear it all the time, but if you keep getting it right, they start to listen. If I promise something to a client, I either deliver or I give every single ounce of my effort to try and make it work."
How do you deal with difficult models?
"Catwalk models are primarily teenagers, so sometimes they will get tired or stroppy. You have to keep that in mind all the time - they're growing up and doing a job at the same time. I can see a situation building this season with one model, because all the casting directors want her. I worry about the strain on her, but we look after our models like they're our children."
How do you protect young models from getting into dangerous situations?
"I'm incredibly protective, especially during fashion week, because it's bloody exhausting. We make sure they're eating well and that they sleep when they can. We make it very clear that there is no going out, and our assistant Annie-Lou lives in the model flat so she can keep an eye on everyone. We keep a tab on where everyone's going - we have a very good safety net."
The press often talks about the fashion industry moving away from size zero models, towards bigger body shapes. Is that really happening?
"No, I can't see any change at all. The demand is still there for very slim, tall models. That's how designers cut the clothes. I think the size issue is a bit of a myth, to be honest with you. You've got to keep in mind that we are primarily dealing with the kid at school who grew to 5'10" or 5'11" at 14 and was considered a bit freakish. They're a naturally extreme body type."
They're not starving themselves into an unnatural shape?
"Not at all. I used to do a lot of sport, so I'm scientific about it - we treat them like athletes. We're working on a girl's shape at the moment, and she's seeing a personal trainer and dietician four or five days a week."
Have you ever had issues with models who were too thin?
"Occasionally. We deal with it immediately. We take them aside, speak to their parents, and take them out of the situation. We have counsellors they can see. It's very rare and always has been for us, but when it does arise there are things we do to help."
What happens to teenagers who fill out as they get older - is that the end of their careers?
"Around 18 to 20 some girls find their body shape changes, but it doesn't mean the work dries up. They might start doing more catalogue work or advertising. Modelling isn't just about catwalk shows - there's a whole other industry where they don't want skinny waifs, they want women with boobs and curves. Violet Budd is a fine example because she doesn't do shows but makes an absolute fortune shooting around the world. It's unfortunate that the spotlight is constantly on the skinny teenagers, because that's only one part of what we do."
