Sophie's Meat Course

Sophie looks at poultry - and she is not even planning to roast any of it... With the shops full of washed-out, flavourless birds and mass-produced, corn-fed birds with plenty of colour but no taste, Graham offers a guide to choosing a good chicken. The best are dry, free-range varieties that have had a varied diet and room to roam.

Sophie investigates a farm specialising in rare breeds such as the Light Sussex, which is perfect for the table. The Rare Breeds Survival Trust is a charity that helps and encourages farmers to maintain rare breeds and offers a list of approved butchers.

Duck is often seen as a difficult bird, but Sophie thinks it is undervalued. A winning duck should be fleshy and dry with good fat covering. Usually they come clammy and wrapped in plastic, but it is crucial to let the bird 'breathe'. For further inspiration she meets Chinese chef Barry Yu who reveals the secrets of preparing crispy Peking duck, a perfect dish for the cold Chinese winters.