How to Look Good Naked

Style Guide Q&A

Exclusive

Tuesday 19 January 2010

There's a wealth of invaluable style tips in this brilliant guide to choosing the right clothes for you, whatever your body type.

The British high street caters for 40 to 50 million buyers, of all sorts of shapes and sizes, but, despite this, clothes manufacturers are still working from the cloth patterns developed in the 1970s. However, it’s a new decade - and time for change! With input from our very own Fairy Gokmother, the staff and students of the Royal Holloway, University of London, and a dedicated team of fashion followers, we've tackled some of the issues facing both able and disabled fans of the fashion industry today. In order to get the British high street to change, we need to show that there is a market out there for different products, but until then, we'll need to find out how to work best with what we’ve got…

What our group at Royal Holloway thought about the current fashion industry…

-People with a disability are not represented on the High Street with respect to fashion
-There is no one to ask for advice.
-When you have a disability, people tend not to see you... but they bump into you.
-People see the stick but they don’t see your face. They see the disability but not the person.
-You develop a tendency to make people see your eyes.


 

Some Style Guidance - Q & A

Q: How can I elongate my 5'2" frame?

-You can use long scarves and necklaces to create long thin lines which will elongate your shape.

-The right trousers can work well - high waist trousers can lengthen your legs and wide leg pants with a hidden heel can also give you a taller look.

-You should use block colours rather than patterns, and avoid creating any breaks.

Q: Is it possible to find nice thermal underwear?

-When keeping warm it’s all about choosing the right fabrics. If you opt for the right one, you can wear less, rather than layering and bulking up.

-Uniqlo offer the latest technology fabric called 'HeatTech'. This is a new Japanese technology that holds sweat and generates more heat. It’s available in a range of colours for around £10 on the high Street.

-Sports clothes are also a good alternative, as is cashmere – but it can be expensive!

Q: I have poor circulation so am always wrapped up in summer – any solutions?

-Gloves are the perfect accessory in winter, and you can start wearing them from as early as August.

-You can also try layering a lot of thin fabrics. If you use lighter colours underneath and darker colours on top you can create a thinner look, or just do the reverse to show off your body.

Q: Which dresses work with low heels?

-Everyone loves high heels, because it stops women looking like men, but you don’t need heels to be sexy... A cute prom dress with ballet flats or a maxi-dress with sparkly sandals or boots can look just as hot.

-You could also try an A-line dirndl skirt to the knee, with flat shoes with detail to balance out your boobs.

Q: Can I find flats as nice and glamorous as heels?

-You can still be fashionable with a small heel or flat.

-Ankle boots are very popular at the moment, and give a very British 'Rock Chic' look.

-Bendy Slippers are another brilliant idea, and are currently very big in New York – they are ballets pumps which you can fold up and put in your purse, ready pull out at the end of the night when your feet start to hurt. Redfoot sell them for around £39.99, and you can order online.

Q: Which colours suit me?

-Years ago people created colour charts, but nowadays, getting the tone right depends largely on your skin tone. This is divided up in to Yellow and Pink.

-From there you can choose items that suit your eye colour and hair colour.

-Forget the old rules – its fair game – have fun!

Q: How should I wear my hair when I have a hearing aid?

-Don’t be self conscious of your hearing aid! Embrace it and show it off!

-Maybe you could customise it with some fabulous diamante, to really make a statement out of it. If you do decide to do this, it is advisable to check with the manufacturer of your hearing aid to see if they have any recommendations about the type of glue and products to use.

-There are also websites offering to customise accessories for you

Q: What kind of skirts can I wear on a daily basis as I want to look more feminine?

-You need to ask yourself what your clothes say about who you are. By looking at what you wear, people can tell all sorts of things, like your age and what music and subjects interest you...

-For a more feminine look, wear a skirt to the knee.

-Play up the classic designs. Floral print is always a quick and easy way to add femininity to an outfit.

Q: Long coats always get tangled up when in a chair so I would like to know about trendy jackets.

-These are some classic style, shorter jackets with a modern twist: classic style double breasted, grey ¾ trench coat with belt (turn up the collar and add some sunglasses!); a dark green military jacket; a 60s/ 70s biker jacket with elastic waistband and sleeves; or modern leather jackets with a hood for the more casual look.

-Also, you can find wheelchair-designed long trench coats online.

Q: When I'm sitting down, everything scrunches up making my waist look terrible – what can I do?

-First of all, don’t be afraid of your lumps and bumps – sometimes it pays to make a feature of them.

-It’s also very important to get the right fabric.

-Side zips and/or side buttons can always be added in to give you extra space where you need it.

-Wearing a waist cincher underneath your clothes can create a smoother line. This magic supportive underwear, which is like a corset, can even be bought with a front fastening to make it easier.

-A good trick is to wear a shorter top, or to shorten your favourite tops, so the clothes don’t gather around the waist and create extra volume.

-Remember: Don’t cover up - it adds more volume and bulk to those areas that you are trying to hide!

Q: Can you buy elasticated waistband jeans that are still trendy in style?

-Elasticated jeans can look horrific, but don’t despair - there is a more stylish, and very comfortable, range to be found in maternity wear. For on the trend cut, try the maternity range in Topshop, or try Gap for a standard jean cut with an elasticated waist.

-There is also a recent alternative, called the 'jegging', which are a bit like leggings and made out of imitation denim – they look like jeans but are stretchy and more comfortable to wear.

Q: I’m 5ft and a size 8 – where can I find nice clothes that fit?

- Many new high street shops now offer two new clothing ranges – Petite and Tall – to help cater for our varied shapes and sizes.

There are also specialist companies available on the high street and online, such as Long Tally Sally.

-If you do fall in love with something that doesn’t fit right, get a good seamstress to alter it for you.

-Tonal colours are also a good way to play up your shape.

Q: I have put on extra weight around the stomach, any tips?

-Magic supportiveunderwear is a must!

Q: Which man bags are available and trendy?

-Keep it simple but stylish – like a good leather bag

-You might like to keep it casual by day, but also think about going for the sophisticated look on special occasions.

Q: How can I look younger without looking like mutton dressed as lamb?

-Wearing a skirt just above the knee is good for this, especially when paired with some opaque tights.

-Remember to go for a classic style rather than the latest trend, and then accessorise to make the look modern and more your own.

Q: What alternatives are there to using fiddly clasps and buttons?

-Velcro, elastic, poppers are all easy to use and can be concealed under the fabric of the clothes. So get customising your clothes and soon you’ll have easy access to all sorts of sexy styles!

Q: How can I find trousers that are the right length for when I sit in a wheelchair and when I stand up?

-If you will be sitting down most of the time, then it’s probably advisable to buy a length that sits well when you are in this position.

-However, the simple additon of a tie, button or ribbon can also create a funky and easy turn up, so why not find a local seamstress who can advise you on a stylish method of adjusting your trousers so that they can be worn at two lengths.

-When it comes to jeans, a straight cut will easily make a neat turn-up – but watch out for flare or boot-cut style, as this won’t work.

Q: What style of skirt is most flattering if I'm sitting in a wheelchair?

-Generally, Dirndl and A-line style skirts are a very flattering look on a figure that is sat down, especially if you can combine these styles with soft pleats that can fall nicely around your legs.

-It’s always best to test drive your skirt: check how well different styles behave once sat in the chair and look for the best styles to flatter you.

-It’s also handy to remember that pleats and tucks are useful in diguising those lumps and bumps.

-For the material, go for a fabric that doesn't crease. And if you prefer more fitted styles, definitely go for fabrics with lots of stretch in them to help avoid wrinkles and creases.

Q: What is the most flattering style of skirt to wear if I have a leg amputation?

-It all depends on what flatters you the most.

-Knee-length skirts are good as they either just cover or sit on the knee

-If you decide to go for a longer length, avoid too much fabric bulking up the lower legs because this may look cluttered and cumbersome

-The longer mid-calf length skirts will hide most of the calf but may look less sexy and a bit frumpy, and these styles can sometimes be aging

-Really short skirts are sometimes best left for the youngsters, but if you have great legs don't be afraid to show them off!

Q: Is it possible to get nice underwear that can be measured to fit my body?

-While there are shops online which cater particularly for your underwear needs in a practical way, it’s also important to remember that practical underwear can also be sexy!

-In particular, look out for the waist cinchers, as these do wonders for supporting loose flesh on the middle half of your body and often come with front fastenings, making them easy to get on and off.

Q: I am visually impaired, how can I learn to co-ordinate styles and colours – Are there any rules to follow?

-One of the key tips that Di learned from her experiences with Gok, was to build a strong mental image of what her body really looked like, and then to understand which styles best accentuated her own fabulous figure.

-It’s invaluable for anyone to learn the basics about what clothes suit their curves, and if you can then pin down a couple of styles per season, you’ll have the basis for a wonderful wardrobe.

-If you need advice with colours, or a bit of assurance that you’ve plumped for the right pair of pants, find a friend or relative who you can trust to be completely honest with you.

-But, most importantly, don’t lose focus on your personal style – you want your friend’s advice but you don’t want their wardrobe!

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