Bleach, Nip, Tuck: The White Beauty Myth

A Euro Vision of Beauty?

Features

White paste

Monday 02 November 2009

Dr Amina Mire

Since women of colour began using skin whitening products in response to racial oppression in eighteenth century America, unlike legal slavery, the trade has grown not died. Worse still is that what was once used to mask women of African origin desperate to pass in a white society that often deemed their natural skin ugly and unacceptable, it now provides a Venetian mask for all women of colour. A recent Middle Eastern advertisement for Fair and Lovely Skin Cream features a young woman who is trying to gain work as a television presenter. When things weren't going to plan she had a revelation, '...the obstacle to obtaining my dream job was my skin'. The ad ends with the words, ‘Fair and Lovely... For total fairness'.

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The quest for white skin continues to Japan through Mikiko Ashikari's 2005 article in Vol 10 of the Journal of Material Culture titled, Cultivating Japanese Whiteness. Here she details the language commonly found in Japanese adverts:

The sensation of whiteness (shiro) on your skin (Helena Rubinstein)

The best shortcut to whiteness (Givenchy)

Let's cultivate whiteness, every day (Clinique)

What I have touched is a drop of white science (Yves Saint-Laurent)

Double action, for the skin of the future which goes beyond whiteness (Dior)

Clarins has discovered the white skin (Clarins)

A new experience of whiteness (Carita)

In Pacific Asia alone, where the skin-whitening market outside of Europe and North America is anchored, 2009 estimates rated its value at €13bn. Whether the thought originated in slavery, class, or elsewhere, some consider that a war on skin colour is being fought on the faces of women of all hues, from golden brown to black, Asia to Africa and South America.

As with all wars, not everyone plays fair. On the one hand there is the perfectly made up world of commercial cosmeceutical purity, yet this can be contrasted with some illegal products available on the black market which can contain banned chemicals such as mercury, hydroquinone and corticosteroids.

In London in 2007 shop owners Yinka and Michael Oluyemi were fined £100,000 for selling 'banned' skin-bleaching products that contained the regulated substance hydroquinone and other illegal steroids.

With the reported illegal trade of products containing regulated substances such as hydroquinone, EU law enforcement and customs are fighting a losing battle against under-the-counter sales and the systematic use of the internet as the main medium for reaching customers. Just Google 'hydroquinone', 'skin whitening' or 'skin bleaching' and see how many opportunities to buy arise.

Unsurprisingly, not everyone is happy with what some perceive to be the mass marketing of whiteness. In India, where skin colour and class has been inexorably linked for centuries, a 2008 article in The Independent detailed a row that followed the broadcast of mini series of adverts promoting 'White Beauty', a skin whitening cream produced by Hindustan Unilever Ltd (HUL).

Some observers consider that there are two distinct sectors to the contemporary marketing of skin-whitening cosmetics:

1. High-end but relatively expensive skin-whitening products which have been developed for, and simultaneously marketed to affluent women of colour to 'fade discolouration', and to white middle aged women for removing the corporeal signs of the aging and achieving a youthful-looking, flawless white skin.

2. Cheap, low-end and often highly toxic products aimed mainly at poor non-white consumers.

From Hydroquinone to the Future

Molecular formula: C6H4(OH)2

Hydroquinone is a pigment control/ melanin inhibiting product designed for cosmetic use that is banned in European Union member states, Pacific Asia and in some African countries. In the USA over the counter sales of skin-whitening products must contain less than 2% hydroquinone.

A 1996 World Health organisation report on Hydroquinone references cases suggesting that skin lightening creams containing 2% hydroquinone have produced leukoderma, as well as ochronosis. Leukoderma is a loss of skin pigment that effectively turns skin white and its opposite ochronosis, increases pigmentation,effectively turning patches of skin brown.

On 9 September 2009, Reuters reported on the FDA's (Food and Drug Administration – USA) continuing investigation into whether or not to continue with their 2006 proposal to ban the use of hydroquinone in pigment control products due to fears that it may act as a carcinogen. The cosmetics industry have responded to this increasing global demand for skin whitening products by addressing the associated health risks that might limit their ability to take advantage of huge potential markets in East Asia, Africa and beyond through the development and production of new, safer skin-whitening agents.

In a 2007 press release for Actiwhite LS 9808 the manufactures Cognis acknowledged that 'The skin whitening market is no longer limited to Asian countries, but has become an essential part of the global face and body care market' and that they were offering a product with 'a high capacity to decrease melanogenesis – the process which is responsible for the creation of melanin, which in turn is responsible for the coloration of the human skin.' By 2010 the worldwide anti-aging product market is estimated to reach U.S.$ 115.5 billion (Global Industry Analysts 2008).

When considering the desire to alter our image and the money involved, the question that remains in 2009 is this: are women of colour still actively seeking a Euro vision of beauty or is the desire to achieve skin a few shades lighter now inherent in our make up?

Click here to download a PDF of this article

Dr Amina Mire

Assistant Professor

Department of Sociology & Anthropology, Carleton University, Ottawa, Canada   

Research Interests: Anti-racist/anti-colonial research; women and health; feminist sociology of knowledge; skin-whitening; anti-ageing; biotechnology and nanotechnology cosmeceutical biomedicine; peace building and ecological justice.

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  1. History does play some part in why people from certain regions of the world want to lighten there skin, as the colour caste system was also used in latin America and the carribean (not just in Asia) by the Spanish, British and portuguese, whereby the lighter you were the better jobs you got the better you were paid etc etc and now its been engrained in peoples head for so long that over time, it has become part of their culture, to see lighter skin as being better. Our more recent history as also has its part to play, in giving ethnic minorities inferiority complex's, cause America's media, film productions and music reach's a wider global audience than others, yet in most of that, its nearily always the case that when they show attractive black women they will be light skinned or with almost European features whilst unattractive, obese or average looking black women roles, are played by dark skinned black women with typical black features, in some cases they've just used mixed race women to play the roles of black women because they are usually light skined and look less black, actress's like Halle Berry, Thandie Newton, Sophie Okonedo and Marsha Thomason to name a few. You would have thought that black Americans would re-adress this balance in their music videos, but sadily this is not the case for in most rap and r&b videos they only ever feature attractive black women who are light skinned or on the rare occasion she's not, she will at the least be almost European looking. A simular practice in America also happens to other ethnic groups in their media productions, for instance when showing a attractive latin American woman or Native American woman she will be someone who is very mixed and will have very little of her ethnic features, infact even in the case of men very few latin Americans chosen for acting parts, are of Indian or Amerindian descent and may look more European and how many attractive oriental women do you see star in American producions, yet in nearily all their productions you will see attractive white men and white women without fail. But britains not been much better, I've hardly ever seen images of beautiful dark skin black women in the magazines, papers or tv or of attractive Asian or oriental women since growing up in England in the 1970's, infact now you got these magazines like zoo and nuts as well as papers like the sport and the Sun and daily star which only ever feature loads of images of attractive white women only. The problem is that in the West, white people are seen as the epitome of beauty and all other races are judged according to their standard, rather than seeing that beauty comes in different forms, like they do in art, like Picasso and Michael Angelo. The thing is when are we going to stand up and say enough is enough before it goes further, it is pyscologicaly damaging and theres no one to go to and no one seems to care about it.
    Posted by RyonChristie on 11/11/2009 09:44:10
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  2. Listen up guys, here we go again. Black people are not into anything call "skin whitening". Again the words are conveniently chosen to suit the racist agenda of a certain group of people. Within the black community a lighter shade of black is seen more than a darker shade - and simply has nothing to do with white. In fact, black people in general thinks white skin are too pale or too white, and find it just as unattractive as white people would find the darker shade of black. Within the black community, the lighter shade or brown skin finds the white skin a turn off just a the very black skin. They think they have the perfect shade. This is what lead a few black women to LIGHTEN thier complexion, NOT WHITEN. Black people don't be cajoled, tricked or fooled.
    Posted by ChocolateBar on 11/11/2009 00:33:13
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  3. This article is very interesting, and much more accurate then the bleach, nip and tuck documentaries, particularly in relation to the desire that some non-caucasian people have ie, to want lighter skin. The article doesn't suggest that this desire for lighter skin is deeply rooted in colonialism. Actually, in South Asia, lighter skin has been prised as beautiful since before colonial times, it has been suggested that when the arayan people (who originated from central asia) came to northern India, they forcibly took over the country and made the local darker skinned people feel inferior. This is where one theory comes from with regards too the hindu cast system that is still quite prevalent in modern day India. The British and Portugese colonialists may have taken advantage of this existing prejudice against dark skin, and reinforced the existing idea of fair skin being more beautiful and connected to power, money and status. Non of this was explained properly in the documentary on the subject, and just like the first programme (about surgery done on the body), the secound documentary on the face also made the mistake of presuming the poeple on the programme wanted too become 'white'. The Bangladeshi woman (Tahira) was lightning her skin in order to be a lighte skinned Asian woman, not to 'become' caucasian. The programme on faces has featured people who do seem to be trying to look more caucasian, which the previous programme on bodies didn't. However, I found it offensive and rediculous to say that each race has certain features and there are never any people who originate from that race who don't fit into that stereotype. Yes there are certain differences that can be noticed between the races, but it would be foolish to suggest that no one ever blurs the lines of the stereotypical features of the race that they belong too. It is wrong to stereotype people into certain catergories by looks, aswell as behaviour or lifestyle. The documentary 'Bleach,nip,and tuck' only served to reinforce the stereotypes of 'racial features' and appearence.
    Posted by Shakirah on 09/11/2009 03:07:42
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  4. Very interesting Dr. Mire and very disturbing at the same time. I now have a new take on the advertisments aimed at North American women that are meant to fade age spots and discolouration that we see everyday in Canada. I had no idea that these products contained bleaching ingredients. It is so sad how superficial and "skin deep" our world view of beauty really is.
    Posted by AleyshaDerksen on 04/11/2009 18:58:15
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