An amazing Baghdadi day

Updated on 11 March 2008

By Guest blogger

Part two of a two part blog from guest Iraqi blogger Neurotic Wife.

I really didn't wanna leave that spot in the road. The spot where I was looking at the only house I ever knew here, the only place I ever lived in as a child, here in Baghdad.

But M said, Neurotica, we look abit suspicious just parking here, we'd better leave. I nodded silently to M. As we turned away, I kept staring at its image, until it became a very faint silhouette in the distance.

I waved goodbye and in a slight whisper I said: "I left you 29 years ago, but I came for you today. Although I'm leaving you again today, I will definitely come and see you one day. One day very soon." And with that we continued our tour of Baghdad.

As M drove on swerving left and right avoiding the uneven street humps passing from one area to the other, he was explaining what each and every area is, and who occupies it, Sunnis there, and Shia's here, Christians here, and it's mixed there, I kept hearing him say.

He reminded me of a real tourist guide. Unfortunately his voice began trailing in the background while I kept my eyes wide open trying to engrave every single detail in my heart and my mind. Al Mansour was by far the most happening place. Filled with shoppers, going about on their business.

There were also areas lined up with newly renovated buildings and stores. State of the art designs but unfortunately, as M told me, the owners either fled the country in fear of their lives because of the violence or were actually kidnapped or killed. A whole strip of unoccupied shops. What a pity I said to M. A real pity.

Then we passed by a restaurant called Crispy. I loved the floor to ceiling glass windows, reminded me of cafés in Chelsea, London. And no I'm definitely not exaggerating. Crispy was filled with families and children enjoying the Friday afternoon. I swear I couldn't believe my eyes.

I turned to M and said, Wow, look at this place, it's filled. People are actually out and about. "Yes Neurotica, life goes on, we will not just give up and lock ourselves in our houses. We love life, and we will live it, whether AQ wants us to or not, whether the militias allows us to or not."

I smiled and turned to my little window. My window to the outside. We passed by at least a dozen cafes. City café was another one, and many many more.

After about two hours of being stuck in the car roaming the streets of Baghdad, M asked "aren't you hungry Neurotica?"

"Aha, Im famished, where are you taking me for lunch?" I asked in a cheeky way.

"I booked in Saj il Reef," M replied. "You booked? You actually have bookings here M???"

"Yes, this place gets overly crowded and I don't want us to stand in line, so I booked for 3.30pm."

Wowww, I could not wait to see what this place was like. Just before we head that way, there was a small shop M wanted to go to, it's called Style and it's close to the restaurant.

"You wanna come inside with me?" He asked cautiously. Of course M, of course I wanna come and see. But Neurotica, make sure you don't slip a few English words here and there ok?

Just to tease M, because he gets worked up pretty easily, I said, well, just because you said that, I'm gonna ask the shop owner "how much is this please?" in English. A look of horror appeared on M's face. Noooooo, please Neurotica, no, just don't say anything ok? I smiled and said don't worry M, I'm only kidding. The look on his face was just priceless.

Again, if I didn't know I was in Baghdad, and someone had blindfolded me then removed the blindfold from my eyes, I would definitely have thought I was in the middle of a normal toy store in a normal place.

The owner had every single Disney character on display. And without me even thinking, I said "Oh wow!" in English. Then I immediately covered my mouth, bowed my head towards the floor and stood behind M like a child who just broke something and was trying to hide. Don't you wanna buy anything? M whispered. I shook my head. Are you sure? Look at those mugs, don't you want one? No M, it's OK, they're in English, had they been Iraqi stuff I woulda definitely bought something. But they're not.

After Style, we finally went inside the restaurant, Saj Il reef. To say I wanted the floor to open up and swallow me is an understatement. Everyone, every single person, just sat there staring at me. My heart began to thump so bad, I thought I was gonna have an attack.

I couldn't understand why. I mean, I was dressed as normal as can be. Jeans, shirt, jean jacket, and trainers. I felt as if I was some kinda alien who just got dropped in the middle of the restaurant. The nicely dressed waiter approached us and as M told him we made a booking, he took us to the empty table which had a "Mahjooz" (reserved) sign on top of it.

I tried to be normal and took my seat, but people were still staring at me. I whispered to M "Why the hell are they staring? Is there anything wrong? Do I look odd?" M smiled, No Neurotica, it's not you, it's them. Don't worry. Just relax. But how could I relax, when I can feel their eyes burning right through me.

We ordered our food, and I sat there leaning my back to the wall, looking all around me. That place was crammed. People were coming in and then leaving because there aren't any free tables around.

I looked at the people, they were happy people. Young ladies dressed in the latest fashion with make up, large fashionable sun glasses over their heads shielding the hairs from their eyes and large hoop earrings dangling from their ears. Everything and everyone around me looked so colourful, so lively. And most importantly, so NORMAL!!!

I had the urge of taking my cam out and snap hundreds upon hundreds of pictures. I wanted everyone in the world to see that no matter what happens to Iraq, the rockets, the bombings, the assassinations, the kidnappings, there is Always Life. ALWAYS. But unfortunately I did not want to attract more attention than I was.

So I just sat there, enjoying the surroundings in utter silence, snapping the pictures in the only way I can, in my head. One by one. A cute couple sitting side by side teasing each other and whispering in each other's ears, SNAP.

A family of elderly parents with their children and their grandchildren, the kids jumping up and down asking for finger. We want finger, they kept saying in a chorus of tiny voices. We want finger (finger = fries), SNAP. A group of young men sipping their teas and laughing at some joke, SNAP. SNAP SNAP SNAP.

After eating the yummiest Iraqi food ever, I started feeling fidgety, I really, really needed to smoke. I looked at M munching away his salad, and said to him, Umm M, I'm sorry but I REALLY need to smoke. Looking at M after saying the word smoke, I truly believed he was about to choke on the burghul (buckwheat) of the Taboola.

I bit my lower lip and said, Yes I know it isn't really appropriate, can I go and smoke outside though? I think at that moment M regretted the whole idea of taking me out, lol.

Poor guy ... I looked around and realised that not a single woman was smoking, only the men with them were. Had I been with HUBBY, I wouldn't have cared and smoked, cuz I'm with my HUBBY, but M is a stranger afterall and besides he is a non-smoker. Unfortunately, I had to wait until we got in the car. After we were done eating, M paid the bill and off we went.

On our way, I saw teenage girls walking in jeans carrying shopping bags. I also saw covered women shopping at the grocery stalls. One scene, though, that I will never forget, and unfortunately wasn't able to take a picture of, was just along one of the roads.

I saw a little girl aged probably between seven or eight, with braided hair shining like gold, pink top and jeans, standing right next to barrels of fuel. I turned to M and said what is this? This is where I buy fuel for my car, it's the black market fuel he said. I was horrified.

Why would a little girl sell it. M explained that the parents use their children because there is no law for impeaching kids, but instead they'd be placed in a juvenile home for a few days then get released. It caught my eye for a reason, how the hell will the little girl be able to carry a barrel that's twice her weight?

As we got closer to the GZ, I stared at the river, the Baghdadi sun shining its rays on the glistening waves which shined like Swarovski crystals. How can a river so dazzling, so beautiful, so calm, end up being the morgue of thousands upon thousands of decapitated dumped bodies.

I looked at the sky, the clearest sea blue sky I have ever seen. How can a sky so gorgeous, so pure, end up being the birthplace of the horrendous shock and awe that ripped the city apart. That changed the whole world? HOW?

My thoughts were cut short as we needed to get out of the car for the GZ checkpoint guards to check for explosives with the sniffer dog. We stood there for about 15 minutes until we were given the OK. And there I was, once again, back in that drabby green zone.

I wonder why they called it the green zone in the first place. All its greenery is dead, dull and boring!!! I was extremely devastated that my trip came to an end, but again I knew that one day, one day I will be able to do this again.

I asked M to drop me off abit further down as I did not want any of my co-workers to see me. As I made my way into the compound, I called HUBBY with the adrenalin rush still in full blast and said "guess where I had lunch today?" He named a few places in the GZ, then I said "Nooooooooooooo, I was out. Out in Baghdad".

Needless to say, I wont be sharing the details of how that conversation went, all I'm gonna say is it took a bit of a nasty turn. Getting upset is an understatement, HUBBY was flabbergasted with me, bringing up the Karradah bombings of the previous day.

Of course, my brother reacted the same way when I told him, and made me promise that I will never ever do it again. I seriously don't understand what the big deal is or was for that matter. I'm back safe and sound, all in one piece. Oh well...

Although on my trip I passed by really bad areas as well, areas filled with destructed buildings, areas with sewage flooding the streets. Haunted street shops with broken windows and destroyed tiles. With all that, with all the destruction that was around with all the trash that was scattered about, Baghdad will always remain a Jewel, A Jewel in my eyes. For I will never forget the 7th of March 2008. 7th of March was truly a day, An Amazing Day in my Life. An Amazing Baghdadi Day...

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