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Max Factor

When Russian immigrant Max Factor (1877–1938), former wig-maker to the Imperial court, sought his fortune in the United States in 1904, he soon made for Hollywood and the burgeoning film industry. Obsessed by the art and science of make-up, Factor's ability to create tailor-made, natural-looking formulas (so ridding actors of the ghostly pallor typical of the early silent movies) meant he quickly made his mark.

Not only that, the strong individual styles he created for the stars – which would, in many cases, define them for the rest of their lives – meant he became the most sought-after image-maker in Hollywood. Some of the most famous creations attributed to 'the grandfather of make-up' include Clara Bow's famous 'bee stung' lips, Joan Crawford's blood-red slash of a mouth and the emphasis on Bette Davis's eyes.

Factor's decision to launch his own brand of cosmetics, including the ever-popular Pan-Cake, marked the beginning of the make-up industry as we know it. And by enlisting stars to endorse his products, he initiated one of the most successful marketing ploys of all time.

Helena Rubinstein | Elizabeth Arden