Cameo corner: making a Saxon brooch

Silversmith Ray Walton worked on this week's programme making a replica Saxon brooch. Unfortunately the reconstruction cameo didn't make the final cut of the programme, but you can still find out about the cameo here.

You had to make a copy of a brooch found at Eastry. How did you do it?
What a challenge! The section of the brooch found near Eastry is a fine example of the incredible craftsmanship of the Anglo-Saxon jewellers. I realised that in the time permitted the real quality of the original could not be achieved, so it was decided to concentrate on the basic principles behind the manufacture.

What was the process?
These disc brooches were made in two parts. Two circular discs of gold are cut. The disc for the front of the brooch is then carefully marked out, and by using the techniques of chasing and repousse the design is formed. This process requires the metal to be annealed (heated) fairly frequently. To achieve the same quality of the original, three to four days would be needed. The small size of the intricately interwoven knots is the most challenging part.

Were there any jewels in the piece you made?
Next comes the fitting of the stones. This element of these brooches is perhaps the most difficult and fascinating part. For the original, a garnet – a beautiful red semi-precious stone – was cut. With the utmost precision this was set into the brooch with a very thin gold foil underneath. This is geometrically patterned to reflect the light back through the stones. The time and cost of this part of the piece meant that we had to use glass and hopefully achieve a fair representation. When the glass had been cut and fitted, the back plate with the brooch fittings (pin and catch) had to be soldered on. The brooch was then assembled and the edges of the back plate hammered up and around to trap the front and stones within it.

It sounds a fascinating piece of work. Did you enjoy it?
I found this project extremely interesting and such a contrast to my previous Time Team experience on Time Team Live 2001, where I spent three days hammering up a replica Byzantine bucket at a site in Hampshire. Both were great fun!

Text only