6th July 1999
The group leaves England and flies into Quito - capital of Ecuador - to be met by transport strikes and protests.

16th to 17th July 1999
Fly into Coca, take bus to Rio Shiripuno bridge and paddle by canoe to Nenquepara cabins. First contact with the Huaorani. 'The first time that we met a group of Huaorani was on the Shiripuno Bridge, which was a little weird. It happened so casually and yet it was very important for us. I was sharpening my machete, waiting for the boat to collect us, when an old Huaorani man sat down beside me and tried to show me how best to do it. That was some experience!' - Breffní.

20th to 21st July 1999
Canoe to tourist cabins outside Quehueiri-uno and hike and canoe to Wentaro. 'As we walked the riverbed became stony and the water clear. Around the bend we came to a beautiful scene, like a paradise island. A picturesque shallow river system surrounded by high banks and prime jungle all around. This is the Amazon everyone dreams of.' - Chris

'We moved on to the next house where Moi's aunt had been ill. Later Moi returned from Queheri Ono with blood-shot eyes after taking ayaguasca, a hallucinogenic drink. Moi said he had seen the spirits of the anaconda and jaguar all around the house and asked them to cure his aunt. They rubbed hortegas plants over her body and blew smoke from tobacco and ayaguasca under her hair. Moi said he saw a vision of the future with the oil companies coming into the forest and ruining it. Moi saw the inflatable globe I had brought as a football. He was amazed that the world was round and did not consist of only America and Europe. Moi couldn't understand why the water didn't fall off.' - Phil

30th July 1999
Breffní leaves to return home for his MSc

1st August 1999
Hike and canoe to Quehueiri-uno. 'This morning a group of us hiked from Wentaro to Quehueiri-uno, which took just over four hours. The walk was incredible, the jungle is really something else - I don't quite know how to describe it, an amazing place. The trek was good but hard work. After a while you just concentrate on your feet squelching in the mud that's everywhere. This eventually hypnotises you in to thinking of the next village, Coca, home, cold Diet Coke!! This continues until a branch or stray palm leaf slaps you in the face.' - Chris

'The spirits of dead and alive people are all around,' says Moi. 'The spirits never die and they help the living to do their work.'

14th to 20th August 1999
Canoe to river bridge and bus to Coca for re-supply. Canoe on Rio Napo. Leave Rio Napo and onto the Rio Tiputini. Prepare for expedition into jungle - the group have decided to move on and have discovered that the Huaoroni are actually inviting tourism.

24th August 99
Near the Rio Tiputini. The group splits and John and Chris go into the rainforest where John gets speared.
'The journey out was hard, really hard. Trying to navigate in the jungle at night is not fun, especially if you're all very dehydrated and hungry and one of your party is wounded. It got even worse when we got to the riverbank, which was mud and quicksand that had to be crawled through. On several occasions one us got stuck and had to be pulled up by the rest. The fallen trees forced us off the bank and then we were chest deep in the river trying to wade up a stream to get back on the bank, falling and dragging ourselves through the water.' - Chris

28th August 99
Back in Coca. Expedition abandoned. 'Quite a relief, as I am feeling a bit worn out with the trip now. I really need to get away from the rest of the team as well. Saying that, despite all my criticisms, when there was a real problem to occupy them, they worked as cohesively and effectively as any team that I have worked with.' - John

3rd September 99
Fly out of Quito, homeward bound.

Afterthoughts
'As for the rest of the team - well, we may not be mates, but it was a difficult job well done. They should be proud of themselves. I know I am.' - John

'The best thing about the trip was the rewarding feeling of having done something really useful for someone. I felt that our coaching in community communication skills was a real success. I hope that it will not only help the Huaorani set up the project that they invited us to work on, but will also provide them with the necessary interpersonal tools needed to stand up to unwanted intrusions into their culture and territory.' - Karin

'The last nine weeks have been one of the most difficult and incredible things that I have ever done - I have seen and experienced things that I know I will never forget. We overcame all the problems that were put in our way, and I know that I will make sure that the Huaorani gain as much as possible from our research.' - Chris

'I still don't know how much it has changed me, because I am still feeling the effects of the trip. Ask me in ten years time. I guess I've developed a strong interest in South America, and witnessing what effectively is the extinction of a culture and people has had a profound effect on me. My confidence in human nature has taken quite a blow.' - Breffní

During the expedition I was always aware how lucky I was to be in the rainforest. Without a doubt the rainforest is the most beautiful place I have ever been to. Life in the jungle is so unpredictable. I woke up every day knowing that I would see or do something that I had never seen or done before. For me, the greatest part of the expedition was meeting the Huaorani. They are amazing people and the West has a great deal to learn from them. Despite living in hard conditions with barely any belongings they are the happiest people I have ever seen. It gives me great pride to be able to think of some of them as friends.' - Phil