
The hare is such a magnificent animal that I still hesitate to pull the trigger when I have one in my sights.
Seeing one run through a field, with its lean, powerful body and long, graceful ears, is uplifting. In some areas a hare is a rare sight and I would really prefer to see one slip away to live another day, even if I am really hungry.
However, if you are lucky enough to be in countryside where hare are plentiful, you might think of taking one home for the pot – they are utterly, utterly delicious. Though hare is not nearly so plentiful as rabbit, it is prepared in much the same way.
This ragout is wonderfully easy to make and tastes equally good made with pheasant meat, wild boar or even a mixture of minced pork and beef.
Serve it on top of piles of steaming mashed potato or celeriac; it is especially tasty if you serve it with velvety pasta and a grating of Parmesan cheese on top.
Feeds 4
1.Heat a little oil in a heavy-bottomed pan over a medium heat and when it is smoking hot add a third of the meat.
2.Brown the meat on all sides and season with salt and pepper before removing and reserve.
3.Repeat with more batches until all the meat is browned.
4.Heat some more oil and add the onion and carrots. Cook for 5–10 minutes, stirring from time to time so that the vegetables don’t colour.
5.When the onion is translucent, add the garlic, and after a couple of minutes the tomatoes, herbs, allspice, sugar and wine.
6.Simmer for 10 minutes before adding the hare and chocolate or redcurrant jelly. Cook over a low heat until the liquid has reduced to a rich, thick sauce. Taste for seasoning.

The Wild Gourmets: Adventures in Food and Freedom by Guy Grieve, Thomasina Miers, published by Bloomsbury. RRP £20.
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