The flounder’s reputation doesn’t match that of the sole, which, because of a chemical it releases after it is caught, has a delicate flavour that is prized amongst fishermen.
Nevertheless, we were ecstatic to catch one off the coast of Cumbria on a perishingly cold morning in late November.
We had been going to net the regional speciality, brown shrimp. Although we had managed to cadge a lift on a tractor to where the shrimp swim, Guy was unable to get hold of any waders.
Unfazed, he set off in his wetsuit into the freezing sea. Ever the successful hunter, he came back an hour later not only with teams of shrimp but also with the best-looking flounder I have ever seen.
I will never forget cooking it on a fire in the pouring rain. Dripping in the buttery shrimp sauce, it was delicious. It made one of the best breakfasts I’ve ever eaten, perhaps because it was such unexpected bounty.
Feeds 2–3
1. Bring a large pan of salted water to the boil. When it is simmering add the shrimp and cook for a few minutes until they have turned from translucent to pinky brown. Drain and shell them. Be warned: this is quite a fiddly job, so get some helpers.
For a handsome lunch minus the flounder, make the sauce as above and serve it on toast with some watercress, livened up with a little vinaigrette of olive oil, sherry vinegar, honey and mustard.
2. Melt all but a small knob of the butter in a saucepan over a high heat and add the spices, along with a healthy few pinches of Maldon salt. Bring to a simmer and cook for about 5 minutes until the butter begins to brown. Cook for a further minute or two and then add the white wine and vinegar.
3. Let the sauce simmer a little and then add the shrimp. Take off the heat and check the seasoning (you may want to spice it up a little more).
4. In a large frying pan, heat the remaining butter over a high heat until it is sizzling hot and add the flounder. Cook for 2–3 minutes before turning and cooking for a further 2–3 minutes on the other side.
Potting involves covering the shrimp in butter, which sets and keeps out air and moisture, thus preserving the shrimp.
5. Pour over the shrimp sauce and scatter over the parsley. Eat at once, mopping up the sauce with hunks of bread.
The Wild Gourmets: Adventures in Food and Freedom by Guy Grieve, Thomasina Miers, published by Bloomsbury. RRP £20.
Buy the book online for £15
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