Dr Emma Ross

Raising the Bar: Willie's Chocolate Revolution The science of Willie's healthy chocolate

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Date Published:
06/04/2009

Dr Emma Ross led the experiments that showed Willie's chocolate had a positive effect for energising exercisers. Charlie Cottrell put the scientist to the test to find out what makes cacao so special

Are you a chocolate fan, and what kind of chocolate do you go for?

I don't eat chocolate all the time, but I do enjoy dark chocolate. I'm also keen on hot chocolate as a winter warmer.

How did you get involved in Willie's chocolate mission?

I am an accredited sport and exercise physiologist with the British Association of Sport and Exercise Sciences (BASES). An exercise physiologist is someone who looks at how the human body responds to exercise, and we also look at how different interventions might alter the body's response to exercise. In this case, Willie wanted to test his claims that his chocolate enhances physical performance in some way.

What were your initial thoughts on the idea of chocolate as a healthy food?

It wasn't surprising to me that Willie has claimed some health and performance benefits from his chocolate. Chocolate is derived from the cacoa bean, one of the most concentrated sources of flavanol, a subgroup of the natural antioxidant plant compounds called flavanoids (also found in tea, red wine and tomatoes). Being a natural source of antioxidants, dark chocolate has the potential to exert antioxidant protection against free radicals, and it can contribute to improved cardiovascular health, including lowering blood pressure and improving blood flow.

Dark chocolate is also an optimal natural source of theobromine. This is the interesting component for the improved exercise performance claims, since theobromine belongs to a class of molecules called methylxanthines. Caffeine is also a naturally occurring methylxanthine, and theobromine has been shown to affect humans similarly to caffeine, albeit on a 'smaller' scale. Caffeine has been well researched in exercise science literature, and findings have shown that it can improve exercise performance, off-set fatigue during exercise, increase fat utilisation during exercise, improve neuromuscular performance and increase arousal.

How did you put Willie's chocolate to the test?

If someone claims that something can positively affect exercise performance the best way to fairly test whether this is true is to conduct a randomised, blinded, placebo-controlled study. This means that the participants in the experiment perform a bout of exercise with and without the chocolate to see if they perform better by taking it, but we don't tell the participants if they are drinking Willie's chocolate or not. In the trial without Willie's chocolate we give them a similar chocolate flavoured drink (but without the high cacao content, and no real nutritional value).

Since caffeine is usually ingested about 60 minutes before exercise, we had the participants drink the chocolate drink one hour before their exercise test. Six participants completed both the trials. This means that whilst the results are a good indication of the effects of Willie's chocolate, they cannot be classed as definitive until further experiments have been conducted.

What makes cacao so special?

The long term effects of cacao include lowering blood pressure and generally improving cardiovascular health, improving insulin sensitivity (important in preventing diabetes), and acting as an antioxidant. Some of the short term effects of cacao have been noted as bronchodilation and its role as an antitussive (cough suppressant).

What were you measuring and why?

During the testing, we measured a number of physiological parameters, which give us an overall picture of the body's response to exercise. These included;
- heart rate (which gives us an idea about how the cardiovascular system responds to the exercise)

- oxygen uptake (the amount of oxygen required to perform the exercise)

- the amount of air breathed per minute (giving us some indication of respiratory function during exercise)

- the respiratory exchange ratio (a good indication of which fuel source we are using to get our energy for the exercise, i.e. fat or carbohydrate)

- perceived exertion, (the person's rating of how hard the exercise feels)

What results did you see?

During the exercise trial where the pre-exercise drink was Willie' chocolate participants demonstrated two main differences in their performance. The first was that the ratings of perceived exertion were lower at all exercise intensities. This means that the participants felt the exercise was easier after they had drunk Willie's chocolate, even though they were exercising at the same intensities in both trials. This is an important finding because, when people find exercise feels easier they are more likely to continue exercising for longer periods of time (which has obvious health benefits). It also means that they tend to exercise at a higher exercise intensity for the same feelings of effort. This has implications for the more serious sports performer, who benefits from, for example, being able to run at a faster pace for the same feelings of effort as running at slower speeds without the chocolate drink.

The second finding was that there was a tendency for participants to utilise fat as their main fuel source after drinking Willie's chocolate. Similar findings have been observed in some trials looking at the effect of caffeine. Utilising fats for energy has benefit during exercise for several reasons. The main ones being that we have a plentiful supply of fat (unlike our limited supply of carbohydrates), so we won't run out of energy as quickly; and also, if someone is exercising in order to maintain or achieve a healthy body composition, then utilising more fat during exercise will help achieve this.

Does the regular chocolate we know and love share any of these benefits?

These health benefits relate almost exclusively to dark chocolate, since it is high in cacao. The lighter colour, sweeter tasting, milk chocolate is often prepared in products that dilute the cacao concentration with other ingredients that minimise the previously mentioned benefits of cacao, and also add saturated fat and calories. In addition, research has shown that milk may interfere with the absorption of antioxidants from chocolate.

Basically, the more processed the chocolate, the more of the health benefits are lost. In contrast, the reason why Willie's chocolate drink may offer health and performance benefits afforded by high concentrations of cacao (and therefore flavanoids and theobromine) is because it is pure chocolate, with nothing added, and so retains the natural qualities of these beneficial compounds.

Were you surprised by the results?

I wasn't surprised that the chocolate drink had an effect on performance, but I was interested to see which measures it affected, and the encouraging results have also prompted me to continue investigating the effects of cacao on physical performance, since it is an under-researched topic in the exercise science literature.

How nervous was Willie during the tests?

Willie was quite nervous during the test - I can see that he truly believes in the power of his product. However, he rightly knows that anecdotal evidence is not enough of a claim in itself, and I admire him for putting his chocolate to the test in such a public way. There was every chance that the results might not have shown an effect. Aside from the nerves during the test, Willie was over the moon with the results that we found - albeit from a small experiment. It confirmed what he had previously believed about his chocolate drink, and provides the foundation for future investigation.

Is there a future for chocolate as a healthy energy drink?

There is still a great deal of research which needs to be done before we can start claiming that Willie's chocolate drink is the 'ultimate energy drink'! Not only do we need to perform larger studies to confirm our preliminary findings, we need to investigate things like the optimal dose required for performance benefits. However, the initial findings are positive, and I believe that there is the potential for Willie's chocolate (because of its pure nature and high cacao content) to be the subject of future investigation as to how it can be used to enhance performance, either as a drink, or a bar.

How much would you have to eat to see the benefits?

The optimal serving of dark chocolate to reap both the long term benefits and short term effects is, as yet, unknown.

So - is chocolate good for us?

Dark chocolate that is unprocessed and still has a high cacao content has proven health benefits and our research has shown it may have even more potential to be beneficial in physical activity performance. However, like with anything, it is only good for us in moderation. To use another example, there is plenty of evidence that carbohydrate drinks (like Lucozade) help us perform better during exercise, but if you drink them all the time, you will be tipping the calorie scales in the wrong direction and taking in more than you are expending.

Have you switched to Willie's chocolate?

Until I met Willie I had not tasted his chocolate, but since doing the show I do use it quite a lot. This is for a few reasons; mainly because I like how unprocessed it is, so it retains all of its natural goodness and obviously it tastes good too! Since I became more aware of the benefits of the flavanoids and theobromine in the cacao, as well as the interesting findings that came out of our experiment, there's no excuse not to use it.

Peruse delicious chocolate recipes on 4Food

Catch up with Channel 4's chocolate guru, Willie Harcourt-Cooze

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Comments

  1. Boring academic question - how can I get hold of a copy of Dr Ross's study (I am a student). Thanks.
    Posted by Chris Allison on 19/05/2009 10:54:21
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  2. I cannot find this chocolate in any Waitrose Store. Is Willie only supplying the Devon stores?
    Posted by Sue Newman on 07/05/2009 14:50:03
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  3. hi iam trying to buy willies chocolate but cant find a store that has it. i live in chelmsford essex and would like to find out the nearest store that has the 100% bar or the small square bar shown on channel4. please help me iam a dark chocolate lover and need to find it.can u get it online. please help me.
    Posted by miss baker on 07/05/2009 14:41:54
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  4. where can we buy this chocolate? i have looked in Waitrose and they dont have any. from a converted milk chocolate bar for a dark 70% coco buyer
    Posted by wendy read on 13/04/2009 19:18:24
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  5. hi my husband and i really admire willie for reaching his goals.we live in northern ireland (newtownards)and are wondering where we can buy the chocolate bars?
    Posted by deedee on 13/04/2009 15:09:14
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  6. hi i live in Bradford and do not know where i can buy it please could you tell me The show is so good i would love it if it did not finish ! Thanks
    Posted by c on 12/04/2009 16:52:01
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  7. Hi iv watched willies chocolate factory the one that was on in december and the one that was on at easter and it has inspired me to create some of my own chocolate
    Posted by Diva on 12/04/2009 08:10:55
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  8. When will it be available to buy and where will I be able to buy it
    Posted by trevor on 11/04/2009 18:29:56
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  9. Great programme. Went to my local Waitrose this morning to try the chocolate for the first time. Guess what. It was all sold out. Will try again next week.
    Posted by David on 11/04/2009 11:43:31
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  10. you can buy his chocolate from www.mummydeli.com
    Posted by Kev on 10/04/2009 21:14:16
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  11. Think you can buy his chocolate bars and 100% cacao from waitrose supermarkets
    Posted by jo on 10/04/2009 20:09:28
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  12. Can anyone advise if Willie's chocolate is available on line? Loved watching all the programmes and can't wait to taste it! You go Willie and all the best for your fantastic venture - if only everyone was as passionate about what they do. Looking forward to the next chapter. All the best from the Isle of Skye.
    Posted by Gillian on 10/04/2009 19:52:41
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  13. where can i buy the chocalate in bucks .or is thair a web site address for mail order.
    Posted by martin reading on 10/04/2009 16:04:25
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  14. I live in Northampton, where can I buy your chocolate?
    Posted by Lily on 10/04/2009 14:38:16
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  15. I have always loved dark chocolate. Can you please let me know if Willie's chocolate bars are available in Jersey? Many thanks
    Posted by ann perry on 10/04/2009 14:28:17
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  16. I love your dark chocolate, and greatly look forward to it becoming more easily available I have watched your progress and programmes with great interest [as a caterer] and am thrilled to see you staying true to your principles. As soon as I am able to locate my nearest stockist of your chocolate I intend to buy your products exclusively, both for my own consumption and within our business. About time that ingredient integrity returned to british chocolate manufacture! It is inspirational to see your passion, and realize the huge financial risk and commitment made by yourself and your entire family. Well done Tania too for keeping faith in your husband [who is obviously chocolate bonkers!] and backing him 110% Best regards Malcolm Davies
    Posted by MalcolmX on 10/04/2009 13:19:07
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  17. Dear Renton, I read your post with interest. Just to clarify, whilst there is published literature regarding the positive effects of cacao, there is currently no research investigating the effect of cacao on acute physiological exercise performance in the peer reviewed academic literature; and so our pilot work with Willie's chocolate was an interesting starting point. Kind Regards Dr Emma Ross
    Posted by Dr Emma Ross on 10/04/2009 12:10:26
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  18. I love yr program, we sit and watch it every time yr on, my partner is very interesred to know what yr fab chocolate tastes like, is there any way i could get some at a price for his birthday coming up? please help. Cant wait to hear from you so i can get my mits on it, kind regards lou.
    Posted by louise beatty on 10/04/2009 11:09:39
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  19. Really enjoyed the programme. Good luck Willie. I live in Northern Ireland can you please tell me who stocks his chocolate over here.
    Posted by Alison on 10/04/2009 09:49:01
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  20. I am interested in fitness generally and i like some dark chocolate so I am very keen to try some of Willies. Where in the Warrington/Salford area can I buy some. I need to try all of his different varieties.Fantastic program,well done to ALL the family.
    Posted by Bob Andrews on 10/04/2009 09:02:01
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  21. I live in Cornwall, where can I buy Willies chocolate.
    Posted by Dorrie on 10/04/2009 08:14:26
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  22. The whole family sat through Willie's final programme with our mouths watering, especially at Marco Pierre White's souffle. Please can you tell us where we can purchase Willie's chocolate as we do not presently have a Waitrose store closer than 50 miles, and we all want to try Willie's dlectable looking chocolate. Everything about it, packaging etc. included, seem absolutely perfect. WELL DONE WILLIE AND EVERYONE INVOLVED.
    Posted by chocolate bolts on 09/04/2009 21:33:36
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  23. My 5 yr old son and I have just watched the 3 episodes of raising the bar and would like to thank Willie for not only educating us but also opening our eyes to the different flavours and healthier options out there in the "real" chocolate world. we have just ordered a bar of each from the online retailer on willies website. mummydeli.com and we cant wait for it to come. GOOD LUCK WILLIE. XxXx
    Posted by wee cookie on 09/04/2009 21:26:27
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  24. I live in North Yorkshire, I want some of that wonderful chocolate, where do I buy it, we have one Waitrose in Harrogate is it there or anywhere else? I completely agree with Willie's ethos regarding real chocolate and would love to fly the flag for him and just as as a side issue.... hes gorgeous too,
    Posted by jayne on 09/04/2009 21:15:29
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  25. As a long term fan of high cocoa mass chocolate (my daily 'tipple' is 74%)I have long been frustrated at the British love of 'Vegolate' Willie is to be congratulated for his efforts; hopefully he will convert more people to the true taste of the real thing!
    Posted by Neil on 09/04/2009 21:11:00
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  26. just a quick request where can I buy some of willy's cooking chocolate any info appreciated thankyou
    Posted by amanda on 09/04/2009 10:57:51
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  27. I love watching your show it makes my mouth water dying to try it please help want sum. Were can I can I buy it from thanx Sam.X P.S keep up the good work.
    Posted by Samantha on 08/04/2009 20:56:31
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  28. Please can you tell me where I can buy Willie's chocolate, I live in Devon, near Tavistock. Please can you help me. XXX
    Posted by Wendy Wills on 08/04/2009 20:37:06
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  29. where can i buy willies choc products
    Posted by victoria searle on 08/04/2009 17:58:33
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  30. hello, have just looked on the website and found this link - it takes you straight to willie's website. hope this is of interest to you tells you where you can buy the chocolate. http://www.williescacao.com/
    Posted by Debbie B on 08/04/2009 17:49:25
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  31. Where can I buy Willies chocolate?
    Posted by Sam Barnes on 08/04/2009 14:42:21
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  32. Dear Channel 4, I watched Willys chocolate programme with interest as recently I have been distributing the worlds first healthy chocolate in the UK. Dr Emma Ross from Brunel University stated that no research has been done on this subject to do with increased performance,whereas it actually has been done. Although Willy's chocolate is great,it still has heat applied to it and therefore loses the power of antioxidants it could have if it was cold pressed,and instead of sugar being added,raw cane juice is the healthier option, aswell as the addition of freeze dried acai berry or blueberry.
    Posted by Renton Ball on 07/04/2009 23:11:36
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  33. I was very impressed with the program "Raising the bar". We know that the dark chocolate is good for us and also just a bit of it satisfies your desire for chocolate. My family prefers the very dark chocolate and we only buy 70% -80% chocolate which is easy to find. I would love to buy Willie's 100 % chocolate. Where can I find it?
    Posted by Raija Newton on 07/04/2009 21:33:18
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  34. Willie, i must say that you and your fantastic family, in this day and age, are an inspiration, not only to me, but everyone. I love your passion and commitment. I have never seen anyone who is 100% confident in what you do, and your total belief in the cacoa beans, fantastic. If I had money I would back you all the way. I have never written to any programme before, but thought I had to let you know that my family and I wish you and yours a succesful and happy business. Best of luck and may all your problems bit little ones.
    Posted by Brendan Furlong on 07/04/2009 21:23:10
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