Hugh chicken interview

Hugh's Chicken Run Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall talks chicken

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Date Published:
03/01/2008

Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall’s new series 'Hugh's Chicken Run' begins on 8 January on Channel 4. Hugh, a committed free-range enthusiast, investigates intensive chicken farming, and is driven to quite astonishing lengths to demonstrate what he strongly believes is the cruelty involved. Here, Hugh reveals how he’s beginning to win this battle.

Did you encounter a lot of hostility from poultry farmers?

Surprisingly not. There's a lot of common ground there. I talked to a number of them, mostly off the record, and they're keen to work in a less intensive industry, but they can't do it as long as the supermarkets and the fast food outlets are demanding such low prices from them. Given a choice, most farmers would prefer to de-intensify. They are aware that, over the years, they've been forced into a position where their public image is pretty poor. But part of the programme is about a dialogue with the supermarkets, and that's on-going.

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Is the quality of meat you get from an intensive bird is considerably inferior?

Oh absolutely. Considerably. On several occasions during the series we offer people free-range chicken, sometimes for the first time, and they said categorically that they could taste the difference. And the group from Millwey, the local housing estate, who we got to raise their own chickens for the series on their allotment, said that the chickens they'd reared and seen slaughtered and cooked for themselves were the best they'd ever eaten.

Inevitably, there's a trade off for them, shopping on a budget. You do confront that issue, don't you?

Yeah, we do. It's not easy. It appals me that barely two or three per cent of all the chicken we eat in this country is free range. It should be 30 or 40 per cent, as it is in France. Many, many more people could afford to eat free range chicken. Of course, there are people on a very tight budget for whom that would be a real struggle. But at the same time, if the minimum welfare standards for indoor poultry were raised, those people could eat cheaper chicken with a clearer conscience.

You're also trying to turn Axminster into Britain's first entirely free-range town. What kind of response have you encountered there?

I have to say mixed. It was a real challenge. The campaign really stirred things up - it divided the town. We had a lot of very strong support and some very significant changes in the way the town shopped. But at the same time there was something of a backlash from people who didn't like to be made to feel guilty about the kind of food they were eating. That's one of the fascinations of the series, and one of the things that made this really tough for me. I was on my own doorstep in my own town, and not everyone was friendly or receptive. It all comes to a head in the final show, but I don't want to give too much away. It wasn't an easy ride all the way, I can tell you that.

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  1. Dear Hugh ,just wondering how i can become a vocal person re the chicken situtation in Australia i need to be directed how to get things started down under ,i have just started to buy beef direct from the farmer to my door but we dont seem to have too many options re chicken we really only seem to have one supplier here with no competiton ,would love to buy all my meat free range .Love the River Cottage shows Helle
    Posted by Helle Jensen on 19/04/2009 13:09:00
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  2. people dont care to what they cant not see this show was a very good idea . but some people dont see what there eating as an animal thats just the way they are as they have never reared any animals for food. years a go chicken was once ever few weeks no its every day if you want it . i think that people should have chicken once a week make a dinner out of it and pay that bit more so that the chicken can have a better life.
    Posted by john on 23/03/2009 14:54:10
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  3. After watching Hugh and Jamies programmes I am certainly committed to buying at least Farm Assured as the minimum standard and British pork from now on. I am also changing from shopping online with Tesco to Sainsbury's. I was not impressed with Tesco's cavalier attitude and have told them so! This will have done a lot of damage to the Tesco brand - and serve them right! I will be supporting our British pig farmers from now on and will enjoy my roast chicken all the more knowing that it has had a happier life! Thank you for bringing this to everyones attention and hopefully raising the standards of meat production for the future. Together we can all make a difference.
    Posted by Ginny on 04/02/2009 21:47:50
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  4. dear hugh, I am looking at a label from the Co-Op. store in Scotland. It has a picture of the farmer(noname or place)but reading your articles was wondering if the label is okay.The front of the label reads: Elmwood means: Space to thrive Naturally lit sheds Vegeterian diet. Am wondeering how many chickens are in the shed and if these chickens are healthy for us to eat. i do see the little red tractor (AFS)on the label. I try to buy organic chickens or Freedom food ones. Just recently I discovered quite a big difference in taste of the Freedom Food chicken and the one free range chicken i bought at the butcher in Pitlochry. Since a few times have noticed that the free range from the butcher is tastier and does not shrink in the oven as much as the freedom food one.I am wondering why this happens? What is also amazing is the price you pay at the butcher and at the supermarket. The butcher is by far cheaper. may i wish you a happy new year, and hope to hear from you about this matter. billy
    Posted by billy chung on 27/12/2008 18:36:05
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  5. good work hugh. lets hope the change comes soon. i have worked in a chicken factory and the farmers get payed on the waight of the birds not how many they deliver some of them birds are in no fit state they are culed as soon as they get to the plant this plant where i was does 3/4 of a million a week and 3000 a day are just put in the bin. i been looking at this now for months and found that there is well over a millon a week reared just for this one factory with 250.000 want even reach the shop now thats bad. Since you stopped talking about your chicken camp no one seams to leave comments now John
    Posted by john davies on 16/12/2008 21:42:26
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