James Bridle has been exploring off-licences and making puddings with alcohol
As the nights become colder than you thought possible, there's not much to do but hide yourself away with a bubbling pot of something tasty, and this is when homemade soups really come into their own.
Fresh soups have become big business in recent years, and there are plenty of classic and crazy blends on most supermarket shelves. Many of these are vastly overpriced, not to mention chock full of salt - up to a third of your recommended daily intake so you're a lot better off making your own.
What's great about this time of year is that the shops are full of seasonal root vegetables that really lend themselves to thick and warming soups. Celeriac, sweet potatoes, carrots, squashes and beetroot are all in good supply. And the recipe can be whatever you like - just chuck it in the pan with a little sautéed onion and garlic, cover with good stock (Marigold Swiss Vegetable Bouillon is the cook's secret weapon) and simmer until tender. For an even fuller flavour, roast the veg before, and when done, mash by hand. For years I've been frustrated by recipes that insist on a blender to finish it off, and this is just rubbish. Cooking should be simple, and fun. Mash away.
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