Eat Ethically Fishing for facts

Date Published:

09/06/2009

No one wants to gobble up fish stocks or munch on cod they can't replace, but without a degree in marine biology or access to a wizened sea dog it's hard to know the rules of what you can and can't eat. Can fish ever be ethical when it's bought in the supermarket? Hannah Williams went fishing for facts

Shoring up stocks

Despite the swathe of species swimming in our seas, just five types of fish and seafood make up 80 per cent of our fishy purchases every week. Cod, haddock, salmon, tuna and prawns are Britons' catch of the day, every day.

Sainsbury's has vowed to move all its supply of these 'Big 5' products to 100 per cent sustainable sources by 2010 while Co-op ensures every own-brand fish product, from a ready made tuna sarnie to high grade smoked salmon, is responsibly sourced according to stringent guidelines.

Similarly, Waitrose will only sell fish from proven fish stocks and has banned the sale of wild Atlantic salmon in its stores because of concerns over declining stocks. Instead, the supermarket stocks Pacific salmon which has been certified as sustainable by the Marine Stewardship Council (MSC).

Plenty more fish in the sea

The list of fish considered endangered or under threat makes alarming reading; as well as high profile cases such as cod and bluefin tuna, other species that slip under the public radar include restaurant regulars such as swordfish, whitebait and Atlantic halibut.

Many supermarkets have barred the sale of these species altogether, while others are also devising ways of encouraging shoppers to expand their horizons. Marks and Spencer has introduced a 'Catch of the Season' range pushing lesser known names like red gunnard and black bream into the spotlight on a monthly basis.

Vivienne Jawett, from Marks and Spencer, says there are oceans of sea life to choose from if we could only think outside the pond. "There's around 100 great tasting fish in our waters; fish we'd all love to eat but most of the nation has only tried two or three types."

Look out for the little blue label

Waitrose agrees action needs to be taken to alleviate pressure on popular fish and thinks there's no time like the present amidst all the economic doom and gloom. "In the midst of the credit crunch, the good news is that eating ethically doesn't have to have to cost the earth," explains Jeremy Ryland Langley, specialist fish buyer for Waitrose. "Species like mackerel and sardines are widely available within UK waters - so as well as being highly sustainable are also easy on the wallet."

Indeed, for many fish fanatics, a life without cod is not worth living and it's a brave man who tries to confiscate bacalao from the Portuguese. Thankfully, it might not have to come to that. There are 2000 fish products on sale around the world, including old favourites like cod, that have been certified by the Marine Stewardship Council as coming from sustainable sources. Just look out for the MSC blue label.

Hook, line and sinker

While most stores will stop short of sending their chief execs out with some rod and tackle, there are efforts being made to promote the use of responsible fishing methods. Waitrose catches all of its cod and haddock using long line fishing methods to minimise the by-catch of other passing marine life and has banned beam trawlers, thought to be damaging to the marine environment.

The Co-op has committed £200,000 over two years to support fisheries that might otherwise struggle to fund the MSC certification process.

Keep out of the water

Popping to the shops for a pound of fish is a complicated business. It's not just the type of fish that's an issue; where it was caught can also be a concern. Asda has joined the campaign to have the North Sea declared a marine conservation zone where fish stocks are preserved solely for the consumption of local fishermen who are dependent on the area for their income.

The time to act on sustainable fish stocks is definitely upon us as the planet can't exist without healthy oceans and seas. The issue is slowly rising on supermarket and government agendas but there is action we can all take to keep our conscience clear. By widening our fish tastes, checking for the MSC label and taking the time to trace our product sources, we can all do our duty to the big, blue deep.

More on sustainable eating with River Cottage

Find out what restaurants are doing and rat out fish offenders on the Fish2Fork blog

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