Andrew's tour of Scotland Ayrshire ice cream

Date Published:

11/07/2008

There's nothing that perfects a summer better than a creamy cone of ice cream. Andrew meets prestigious Galloway producers, David and Wilma Finlay, and finds out why the pair are licking the competition

It's weather more suited to ducks than dairy cattle as I weave down the country lanes to Cream o' Galloway ice cream farm. It doesn't seem to have put off parents and school kids who've broken up for the summer though, as the place is packed.

I'm here to meet managing director, Wilma Finlay, whose husband, David, is the third generation of Finlay's to farm this site. David and Wilma met 16 years ago, around the same time David's father retired. "The farm was traditionally a cheese and milk producer but when David took over from his father, he began to think 'how do we survive?' It was our third date when he presented me with a business plan!" Wilma says.

They did some research into ice cream production in Devon and went for it in 1994, with Wilma concentrating on recipes and packaging and David managing the herd of Ayrshire dairy cattle. David swore he'd never have the public on the farm but soon Wilma persuaded him. "We started with a small shop and some swings hoping to catch the passing trade," she says. It's now grown to offer a café, nature trail, activity centre and bike rides, with people visiting from all over the region. "Our attitude nowadays is never say never," says Wilma.

Fair's fair

One other thing that attracted me to Cream o’ Galloway is their attitude to fair trade. Wilma explains that ice cream and sorbets use a lot of foreign produce; vanilla, mango, coco, chocolate and so on. "It's no good me complaining that we can't get a good price for my milk if I'm doing over some other producer elsewhere in the world." But when Wilma wanted to include a small fair trade organic meringue in their strawberry pavlova ice cream she couldn't find one. In the end she commissioned Border Meringues to make one.

Flying high

The production of everything happens in a small room where three staff work the mixing, chilling and squirting machines. They're producing 200,000 litres a year in over 20 flavours and their ice cream is now offered by Virgin Airlines. "Only in first and business class, mind, so I wouldnae know," says Wilma with a smile.

We move on to the shop where Wilma offers me a taste. I opt for the vanilla, partly as I think it's an overlooked flavour. Indeed it's now become a byword for the default option. But I choose it as there's nowhere to hide with vanilla, no choc-chips, sauce or fruit. It's either good or rubbish. Thankfully this one's good; rich, creamy and flecked with real vanilla seeds. The cone's worth a note too, a proper baked one not one that looks like it's made from formed cardboard. "We like these ones. They cost a bit more though," says Wilma. I like a decent cone, one that won't go soggy and can provide that final crunch.

It's not just me who thinks what the Finlays are making, and just as importantly, how they make it, is worthy of note - others do too. In 2006 Wilma received an MBE in recognition of her services to tourism and the prestigious BBC Radio 4 Food and Farming - 'Farmer of the Year' award that year as well.

Outside in the car park the sun's come out and a kid with a beaming face smeared in ice cream runs off to the adventure playground. You can't get a better endorsement than that.

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