Andrew's tour of Scotland A café to suit your mood

Date Published:

14/07/2008

Café Gandolfi is something of an institution in Glasgow. About to enter its 29th year, it was started by photographer, Ian Mackenzie, whose love of the bespoke camera manufactures, the Gandolfi brothers, lends the café its name

Food for every occasion

When it began the surrounding area – the Merchant City – wasn't the haunt of lawyers, architects and designers it is today, but an area on the wane. But the café survived and grew and other restaurants and cafés have followed in its footsteps, many of which are Italian themed. But it's the café that remains at the heart of it all. It has a loyal following according to manager, Lynne Parker. "People have often had their first experiences here; their first cappuccino, their first date, first kiss, marriage proposals, all sorts," she says.

The chunky wood furniture was designed by the late Tim Stead and has been here since the café opened. It's a lasting testament to him that his designs have not only survived the fickle nature of fashion, but also nearly 30 years of Glaswegian bums, hands and feet.

The current owner is Seumas MacInnes, who's expanded upstairs with an attic bar and opened up the Gandolfi Fish Restaurant a few doors down. "What we have here is something that caters to your mood, from coffee and homemade scones in the morning, lunches, light bites and lazing in the afternoon, to a full sit down restaurant dinner or simpler gastro pub style food, and on to evening snacking and drinking," says Lynne.

Do try this at home

- Halve two aubergines lengthways, brush with a little olive oil and roast in the oven until soft.

- Once baked, scoop out the flesh and puree with garlic and Parmesan, and breadcrumbs (Me: how much? Tony: Depends on how wet it is, say a good handful).

- Put the mixture in the fridge for 30 minutes to firm up. Roll the mix into balls and push a small cube of mozzarella into the middle. Dip the balls in egg then breadcrumbs and deep fry until golden.

Let me know if it works, readers.

The café menu has a good range, including some traditional Scottish flavours; Cullen Skink, Stornoway black pudding, Haggis neeps and tatties. However I opt for something a little different: Rannoch Moor smoked venison with gratin dauphinoise, a dish perhaps echoing the 'auld alliance' and something of a Gandolfi standard. The cold smoked venison is to die for; rich and earthy without the smoke overpowering it. The dauphs, on the other hand, are warm and creamy. All this is contrasted by the accompaniment of some sliced avocado, which is neither Scottish nor French but somehow stands its ground on the plate.

I really liked Café Gandolfi; it's the sort of place that's able to shape shift itself to however you're feeling and who you're with.

Know of a good cafe near you? Post it on the Map.

Back to top