Andrew's tour of the North West Dinner and a chat with Paul Askew

Date Published:

30/06/2008

The North West based Hi-Life Dining club recently awarded Paul Askew with a special recognition award stating: "[He has] almost single handedly, dragged his homeland into the 21st century and helped to create an embryonic but growing restaurant culture." Strong stuff indeed, so I set the sat-nav for Hope Street, Liverpool and an audience with the man himself

Talking food

Paul, like a lot of the best people I've met so far, is amiable and good-natured and can talk for hours about everything to do with food. His restaurant (he's chef patron) The London Carriage Works is part of the Hope Street Hotel in Liverpool's theatre district. It goes without saying that he's mad keen on the produce of the region – vegetables from Claremont farm, Duroc pork from the Rhug Estate in Wales, Bowland Beef from Lancashire, as well as careful sourcing of foreign items such as oils, olives and charcuterie from the continent. The food is modern European in design and execution, with a nod to the Iberian peninsular, bringing a touch of Spanish flare.

The menu

My mate, Will, in town for his sister's wedding, joined me. For starters we opted for oysters, as I love 'em, and the potato terrine. Admittedly oysters don't allow a chef to flex much creative muscle, but it was refreshing to see them served with a white wine and chive dressing rather than the traditional red wine vinegar. The terrine was excellent. Potatoes interwoven with Manchego and Parmesan cheese, wrapped in Parma ham, well put together and tasty.

For main course I went for the veal - which has become something of a theme on this tour - produced ethically by Farmer Sharp in Cumbria. Will opted for the halibut which he pronounced as excellent. Both of these were on special, and a word here about 'specials'. It seems finally people - chefs and customers - are enjoying specials again. They're no longer viewed as 'leftovers we're trying to shift' but as a chance for both chef and diner to do something unique for the evening and share a moment, something special. We didn't get round to the puddings sadly, both being a bit stuffed. Though I would have gone for a selection of the British cheeses on offer.

Lots of hard Works

There's no doubt that The London Carriage Works and surrounding district has benefited from the Capital of Culture status. It's brought renewed energy as well as new customers to the area. However, none of the establishments I went to are resting on their laurels. Wholesale prices are rising, as are overheads and outgoings. Any chef worth their salt should be extracting maximum yield and value from produce as well as flavour.

Behind the scenes

The next day Paul takes me through cooking two of his favourite dishes: scallops with morcilla (Spanish black pudding) and fillet of Bowland beef with salsify and potato puree. From the removal of the fillet and shelling of the scallops to the plating up, it's clear that Paul's a man who not only enjoys what he's doing, but is good at doing it.

Is there a great restaurant in your neighbourhood? If so why not get it on the map.

Watch Paul in action.