Big British Food Map Nibbling the North East

Date Published:

05/08/2008

Andrew crossed back over the border to find out what quality nosh Newcastle had to offer

Traffic, in a jam

I'm back! After a long weekend break (happy birthday Mum!). I boldly set a course for what they call 'The Great North'. Within an hour, however, I'd run into 'The Great Traffic Jam' on the M62. What's worse, it was chucking it down, that rat-a-tat-tat-on-the-windscreen kind of rain. There's always the temptation with long delays and traffic jams that by the time you've sat for over an hour in one, you're ready to view some gore when you get to 'the cause' - queuing motorists all whipped into a blood lust and yet dying for a pee at the same time. That's why it's a huge disappointment when it's down to 'sheer weight of traffic'. I resisted this notion, finally inching my way towards junction 22 after an hour where I came off and went through every back road and town, any of which could have been the back drop to New Model Army's 'Green and Grey' to reach the M1 and on to mighty Newcastle - way aye!

Geordie lobster

Spent the day visiting Moorhouse farm, which was suggested on the Map by Pat, and Latimer's Fish Deli, suggested by RG. I also had the company of Craig, a photographer from the Mail on Sunday, who was there to take some good official shots of me. Up until now I've been putting my camera on a tripod and setting the timer, hence the slightly perplexed look as I've normally just run into shot. Anyway, Ian and Victoria at Moorhouse were great, as was Rob at Latimer's. All were more than happy to talk about their businesses, show me around and demonstrate their skills. I'm constantly amazed by the openness and 'yeah sure come and have a look round' attitude that I've encountered on this tour. Anyway, here's a shot of me and one of Rob Latimer's wonderful native lobsters.

The Tyne's-a-changin

Went for a walk along the river today. Last time I was here, in the late 1990s, I ended up on a quayside ship called Royale's, I think. I'm sure it had a revolving dance floor that filled with foam and was very difficult to get off and on. Of course, like a lot of the other cities I've visited on this tour there's been some much needed development and bags of cash poured in. Now it's all apartments, boutique hotels and the Baltic art gallery, which I had a mooch round. Not a 'sickly sausage roll' in sight. I see that the old fish market is now a night club called Sea. There's also a VIP champagne bar above it called 'Gliterati'. Bet it's not got a revolving dance floor.

Can you tell what it is yet?

Yesterday evening I went out on the 'toon' to sample some of the legendary nightlife. I ambled about for a bit looking for a nice pub before ending up in Bacchus. All the bars in Newcastle seem to have names like 'Luckies' or 'Sinners'. Anyway, I settled down with my book and waited for Newcastle to speak to me. After a couple of pints she did. I got up, walked out and promptly gatecrashed a Rolf Harris exhibition. Sadly the great three-legged, boomerang-losing, doyen-of-the-didge wasn't present. Who'd have thought £20,000 - £50,000 for a Rolf original, and it wasn't even signed with a Rolfaroo!

Lawyer ladies at Barn Asia

I then headed to Barn Asia, added to the Map by Anna, where I found it 'closed for a private party'. So (for the second time in an hour) I gatecrashed that as well. Despite it chucking it down it was the summer party of Dickinson Dees, the largest law firm in the North, as I was reliably informed by Val Taylor who seemed to be organising things. Anyway, they very kindly let me stay for a chat with Mark the owner, a beer and some of their buffet.

An English icon, the rain and the sculpture

Yesterday I nipped across to South Shields to visit Richard Colman of Colman's fish and chip shop, and filmed Barn Asia in the evening. This morning, however, it's time to say "ha'way man" to the toon and push on. I'm now in Durham for a night, then next week have booked an apartment in Leeds to use as a base to explore the rest of the Yorkshire region. But I couldn't leave without visiting the Angel of the North, which in June celebrated its 10th birthday. Didn't stop too long, though, as it was tipping it down. Blimey, will it ever stop raining on this trip?!

Luscious lamb

Map user, 'carolg', added the Pumphouse restaurant just outside Durham to the Map saying: "This is a quiet but highly professional restaurant, the food is superb and the service is efficient and unpretentious." Yesterday I dropped in to see head chef, Tony Heath, and he offered to demonstrate a lamb dish off his menu. The lamb comes from the farm next door to the Pumphouse, which is part of Durham University. You can watch Tony's demo here.

Bunny business

On my drive down the A1 from Durham I came off the main road to do a little exploring. I managed to catch these two hares going about their business in a corn field.

Last week Andrew was at the Edinburgh festival.

Next week he's off to the Yorkshire Dales.

Back to top