Big British Food Map Great Glaswegian grub

Date Published:

10/07/2008

Andrew headed over the border into bonnie Scotland for his first taste of Scottish cuisine. First stop Kirkcudbright then on to Glasgow

Spent the day writing and planning today. I've been looking at your entries for Scotland; there's plenty of exciting looking ones, there's also lot of pubs, which is no bad thing. I'm particularly looking forward to getting up into the Highlands later on in the month. But there's plenty to do before that, including Glasgow and Edinburgh, which should be exciting.

Remembering the past

Today I pushed on to Scotland. But not before stopping at the Watchtree Nature Reserve, which in 2001 was the site of the mass burial of animals during the foot and mouth outbreak. Outside the centre is a stone, on which is written: 'A memorial to the 448,508 sheep, 12,085 cattle, 5,719 pigs'. Nearly half a million animals lie in huge pits dug out by the army. The Department for Farming and Rural Affairs run site is monitored for seepage and fumes. It is, in effect, an animal landfill.

Looking to the future

Anyone can visit the site, and after signing in and completing a small induction with Nigel (who's not allowed to talk to the media), I'm left to wander along the designated visitor paths. It's sobering to think of what went on here seven years ago. I can't begin to imagine how that must have affected the local farming community. There are wind turbines on the site too; when spinning they make this rhythmic whooshing noise. It's a stark and very meaningful place that's trying desperately to look to its future as a nature reserve and yet perhaps hasn't fully come to terms with its past.

Haggis truffles

Set off from Kirkcudbright (pronounced Kir'coo'bree) this morning and headed for Castle Douglas, which has been designated a food town (not entirely sure by whom). Still there's a whole range of shops and cafes, including four - count 'em - four butchers and a shop making handmade chocolates, yum. In Ballard's Butchers I spied a haggis truffle, which is a pork meatball with haggis in the middle.

The Blue Nile

Made it to Glasgow today. Stayed at Marks Hotel, which had a great view and was handy for the Merchant City area of town, where Cafe Gandolfi is, so I went to see them. After the interview Lynne asked if I wanted to go and see a band tonight with her and the staff. The band was The Blue Nile. They've only released four albums in 25 years and don't tour much. Tinseltown in the rain is about Glasgow. They're also huge fans of Cafe Gandolfi.

Berries in bloom

Left Glasgow today. Would have loved to have stayed and explored some more but Scotland's a big place and there's so much to see. I carried on up the A82. Stopped off at Loch Lomond for a break and a walk by the loch and spotted some wild raspberries just coming out, which, if I had loads more, I could use to make Cranachan. Why not have a go yourself, here's a recipe.

Come rain or shine

Made it to Inverness but fear the sore throat is back - shudder. Also the driving is getting harder. The A82 is a very scenic drive, which means you end up behind a coach or holiday home at a steady 27mph on narrow winding roads. Roads you've got to keep your eye on too, no staring out of the window for me. Locals claim it's an accident black spot, with 22 deaths in the past two years.The amazing weather continues in all these little glens and lochs. I took this the other day of rain and sunshine in one picture.

From top...

Half way there! John O' Groats - Lands End and John Wallis and his Cornish Earlies feel very far away. The landscape up here feels almost Scandinavian. For the last 50 miles it sort of flattens out. It's still stunning mind. But you can feel its Nordic influence. Down hill all the way now.

...to bottom

Last week Andrew was in Bury.

Next he's off to the Highlands.

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