Big British Food Map Dining down South

Date Published:

15/09/2008

Andrew took in some sea air as he dined along the South Coast

At the tail end of last week I was in Dover. Even its residents admit it's not the prettiest of towns, the blame being laid 50/50 on the Luftwaffe and town planners. I visited Cullin's Yard added to the Map by and further described by Anne Duck as: "The best place to eat in Dover."
Jimmy, the owner, is a host straight out of central casting, chatting to the regulars and making sure everyone's well looked after. I went for the sea bass, which was served whole with backbone removed and filled with prawns. In the summer there are bands on as well as a huge outside area too, lovely stuff. The same cannot be said for room 218 in the Best Western Hotel however, which was grim. And with that it's so long Kent, hello to the rest of the South Coast.

Round Britain in this? No thanks

I've worked my way round to Brighton. Sunday was the annual London to Brighton veteran car run, a fine British tradition. On display were some lovely looking machines from pre-1905, most belching steam, smoke and oil and putt-putting over the finish line to applause.

Jammy-licious

Before all this however, I popped into The Mock Turtle added to the Map by Carole and further endorsed by BrightonBelle, who said: "It's like stepping back in time. The homemade doughnuts are huge and absolutely delicious." Well I can confirm this observation; these are proper English jam-in-the-middle doughnuts, the size of cricket balls. Add to this owners, Hossein and Mandy Tehrani's, special blend of Mock Turtle tea and you're set.

The cakes, buns and breads - all of which are baked upstairs from the shop - are also stunning. Hossien shows me the oven - it's old, warm and well worn. "This oven doesn't owe any money to anybody," he says with pride. Hossein and Mandy took the place over three years ago from the previous owner who'd had it over 30 years and they're well aware of their duty of care. "We can't, and won't, change a thing. Our customers won't allow it," says Hossein.

Germain and Cassoulet

I've moved in country now away from the coast. I dropped in to Clos du Marquis in Hampshire for a chat and lunch with Germain Marquis, where he made me his legendary cassoulet. I also had the pleasure of meeting his beloved pooch called Cassoulet (because like the dish he's full of beans) who's apparently a great ratter in the nearby farmer's barns - good boy!

Motorway meltdown

Jack Dee once described bus lanes as 'like water slides on a hot day' and, queueing along the M4, I now understand why.

I got you babe

Paid a visit to Newlyn's Farm Shop, added to the Map by Leanne, the other day. It must be the only farm shop with a cooking school and an off licence under the same roof. While I was there a delivery of pigs came back from the abattoir and I got to help unload them.
Not long to go now. To paraphrase Jim Lovell from Apollo 13: 'London's getting awfully big in the window.'

Last week Andrew was on the Kent coast.

Next he's off to the Home Counties.

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