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Karbala

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Muharram 8


Lead up to Ashura



More than a million Shi'a Muslims have converged on the holy city of Karbala, some 100 km south of Baghdad to take part in an emotional commemoration of the massacre of Imam Husayn in 61AH/680CE.

Ashura, a ceremony all but banned by Saddam Hussein, is the anniversary of Husayn's martyrdom. The month of Muharram is a time for the Shi'a to grieve for their "Prince of Martyrs" who was surrounded and outnumbered by troops loyal to the Caliph Yazid some 1300 years ago. Unwilling to swear allegiance to a regime he did not recognize, believing the Caliphate was rightfully his, Husayn was brutally cut down, beheaded and mutilated.

As he died he is reported to have said, "death with dignity is better than life with humiliation". Shi'a have gathered at Karbala ever since, home of the Two Shrines to Husayn and his brother 'Abbas to grieve for the grandson of the Prophet.

This practice was severely curtailed in 1977 when ruling Ba'ath party members and security forces clashed with Shi'a Muslims on the streets, thousands were arrested and hundreds killed. Ashura commemorations have been severely restricted ever since; the faithful were prevented from entering Karbala and those walking to the holy city were fired on by Republican Guards.

This year with the fall of Saddam, for the first time in three decades worshippers will be able to freely mark Ashura, when men throng the streets beating their chests and heads in collective grief.

Each evening people hold gatherings (majalis) around mosques or in private homes where they remember the events leading up to Husayn's death. Lectures are given, poems recited and sung stirring up the faithful who repeatedly rise, beat their breasts and cry out "Ya Husayn" as the tears fall.

The emotion in Karbala is palpable; eyewitnesses talk of open weeping and immense grief as pilgrims, many who have walked from Iran or across Iraq, pay homage to their martyred leader.

But the pilgrimage is not the only religious ritual associated with Ashura. During this period, many Shi'a observe daytime fasts and nightly vigils. Muharram reaches its peak on the ninth and tenth days with commemorative processions and street plays recalling the events of Hussein's martyrdom.

Recognised orators and cantors lead mourning chants in mosques and special observances in people's homes. These chants typically recount the suffering of Hussein and his supporters during the siege in the desert and the cruel massacre of the forces during the hour of the Friday noon prayer.

Ashura is also a time to remember the poor and share food with the less fortunate. Many people sponsor open dinners in the street or prepare food and tea for their friends and neighbors.

The majority of the visitors to Karbala have come from Iran, Kashmir, Pakistan and India.

Find out more about the security measures.

Read why the Shi'a are increasingly powerful in the new Iraq.

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