Brickwork

A-Z of DIY & Building Guides Rendering Brickwork

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Date Published:
21/05/2008

Is the brickwork on the outside of your house looking tatty? Rendering might be the solution - we take a look at the steps you need to take to get a professional finish when applying a render to external brickwork.

Preparing The Brickwork

The first thing to do is prepare the brickwork by brushing off any loose material. Then coat it with PVA. Mix the PVA up with water in a bucket or paint kettle and liberally apply all over the brickwork. Use the brush to flick it into all the nooks and crannies.

Which Render Mix?

As for your render, the mix should really take into account the atmospheric conditions, the type and condition of the background, and the finish you want to achieve. If it's freezing outside, this can have a detrimental effect on the bonding process. The cement packaging should provide a guide proportion of cement, sand and water to use. Before you add the water, add a blob of plasticiser and a drop of water retarder to it and mix well. Don't add too much and make sure it is well mixed into the water. If you don't have a cement mixer, it might be worth renting one from a tool hire company - the work it saves will pay for itself.

Mixing The Render

Put the sand into the mixer first, then add the cement. If the mixer has a cover, great, otherwise you might want to use something like a dustbin lid or piece of board to cover the front of the mixer to stop dust spilling out as the drum spins. Once the cement and sand are well mixed, start adding the water/plasticiser/retarder a little at a time. Easy does it as you don't want it to come spilling back out everywhere due to the motion of the mixer.

Laying Bricks

A Professional Finish

The number of coats required depends on the final thickness of render required. Each coat should be half an inch or maybe three quarters thick. Don't try and get too much on in one coat, as it will fall right back off the wall. Second and subsequent coats should never be thicker than the preceding coat. If you do need multiple coats, you need to score a key in the surface so the later coats will hold easier. Once the render is beginning to dry, scratch parallel diagonal lines about an inch apart from each other over the surface using your trowel. You can get a fork from your DIY store to make this quicker.

Once the undercoat is dry, coat with PVA as you did for the brickwork before adding the next layer of render. When you are on your final coat, trowel it as smooth as possible, then use a float to smooth the surface over. You may wish to use a slightly finer grain of sand for the finishing coat. One point to bear in mind is that with finer sands there is more danger of shrinkage due to fine sand's higher water absorption. Use a wooden float to carefully smooth the surface. As the render begins to dry if you see any shrinkage cracks, spray with a fine water mist and smooth them back.

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  1. we have been told by a sales rep for a rendering company that we shouldnt use sand & cement job on r house as it hols water in the bricks and as cement isnt breathable we'll get damp. he says we should use their 'protectacoat' special render which is made from a breathable source in their texture coating ?? although their product will be good we are worried that a rendering job done by a local firm wouldn't be right for the house and would be a waste of money. can you help with this at all.
    Posted by steven kerrigan on 17/02/2009 21:58:01
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  2. Help please! Background: We have an Edwardian house rendered in fairly large-stone pebbledash with many years of white coating (indeterminate whether snowcem or masonry paint, possibly both). The render has been badly patched in the past in several prominent areas, and as we have recently extended the property substantially, we have decided that we would like to smooth cement render the whole place to achieve a uniform and smarter finish. Removal of the old render is not practicable, as it is well bonded to the underlying solid brick walls, so we wish to render over the existing pebbledash finish on the old part of the house, accepting extra depth around windows etc as the penalty for so doing. The total wall area is approx 250 sq m, so it's non-trivial! The problem: The old render is well bonded, but we have been advised that to create a firm bond for the fairly thick (20mm) new render overcoat, a priming coat will be necessary over the existing render. The original contractor advised 2 coats of PVA, which we duly applied; then he defaulted, and some subsequent plasterers have asserted that PVA is quite wrong, and that all the white coatings (and the PVA) have to be stripped off, either by mechanical means (not easy with largish pebbledash) or by chemical stripper. Some have advised an SBR liquid primer, over the white coating suitably scored to make a key, but not requiring its total removal. So who is right? We want to get definitive and practical advice, as we do need to complete this external work as soon as the weather allows. Can you advise directly or point us to an expert person or body that can help please?
    Posted by Stuart on 30/01/2009 09:20:34
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  3. I have just employed a frim to re-render and re-paint/seal the back of my property. I checkeked them out on the web beofre and they are a member of the TrustMark government backed operation. However, after the first few days I have had the whole world and his dog coming round and telling me what a bad job they are doing an how I am being ripped off. The job was to repair the blown render on the back and side of the house. Tney seem to have only hacked off certain bits and left the rest. For the price quoted(£6,000) people have said that this is just a patch job and should cost that. I counter that with the fact that the firm say that it is guaranteed fo 25 years???? I can understand the old response"if it ain't broken don't fix it" but will this effect the building eventually if some bits are re-rendered and some are not?? I need to know before they get too far into the job......and also get all my mates off my case!!! regards in advance Chris Hughes Bromley
    Posted by Chris Hughes on 27/09/2008 22:57:01
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  4. Thanks Lucy. When I mentioned PVA he said he never used it and in any case he did not want to do the job in that way he wanted to mesh the whole building first. This plasterer is being employed by a builder who is onsite labouring for him. When I asked what would be done about the hollow bits which had not adhered they both got quite stroppy and said they didn't want to finish the job and left. I was amazed as I had been very polite throughout this and had only sought reassurance to my questions. Since then they have removed their equipment and materials. I have not paid any money for the work so far, in total about half the building has just the scratch coat, and stated I do not intend to pay any. I have offered to pay for the scaffold if it stays in situ and if I find another builder to finish the job so it can be used. Another builder who has worked for me before has seen the job and will probably finish it. He says that some of the previous work will have to be removed and the beading and angles replaced with stainless steel ones. He also said that he never PVA's because it stops the house breathing and he favours wet to wet coating meaning not letting the sctach coat completely dry before applying the top coat. Now I'm really confused and scared! Help?
    Posted by mike nagel on 09/09/2008 09:59:42
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  5. Hi Mike It's pretty hard to check the quality of the work from a distance - just a few questions to throw at you. What did he say about the PVA when you mentioned it? Did you check his work elsewhere to see if other clients have been satisfied (and if the workmanship lasted)? Are you holding back a proportion of the money you're paying him so you can check his workmanship is ok before you hand over the full amount? Sorry not to be overly helpful - but I think you and he need to discuss your worries - and don't let him fob you off. If you feel you need a second opinion, get one from another reputable builder.
    Posted by Lucy 4Homes Ed on 05/09/2008 16:20:42
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  6. I am currently having my house rendered. It is 80 year old brick with a blockwork extension. The builder appears not to be coating with PVA prior to rendering nor wetting down the surface at all. Now some of the scratch coat has dried I have noticed that there are places that seem hollow when tapped. Like "live" plaster. Also the scaffolding has been erected with the horizontal poles actually touching the walls and the builder has rendered round them. When I asked why he said it was for the structural stability of the scaffold and when the top coat was applied the poles would be moved away and the holes left filled in with the top coat. I am concerned I am being given a bad job which will not last too long. Can you advise. Thank you.
    Posted by mike nagel on 01/09/2008 08:30:18
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