Measure 5cm from the top, and then, from this starting point, you will need to mark regular intervals across the blind - these will be the positions of the dowels.
These should be between 20cm and 30cm apart, finishing with a bottom section that is half the size of the rest. (For example, each interval is 20cm and the bottom interval is 10cm). Mark these intervals with tailors’ chalk.
Cut out strips of lining fabric 8cm wide by the width of the blind. You will need one of these dowel pockets for each of the marked intervals. Right sides together, fold in half along the length, and taking 1cm seams stitch the long raw edge and one end.
Turn through and press. Pin and stitch the pockets centrally along the marked lines, sewing through all fabric layers, and keeping the lines as unnoticeable as possible on the front of the blind. Put a dowel into each pocket, and slip stitch the ends, turning under the raw edges.
Sew a blind ring to the end of each pocket 2cm from the edge of the fabric, and at regular intervals of between 20cm and 40cm across the width.
Secure the batten in position and stick hook strip of Velcro to the front.
Turn 2.5cm at the top of the blind onto the wrong side, and pin and sew. Pin and stitch loop strip of Velcro across the top of the blind, and use to attach it to the batten. Screw screw eyes into the underside of the batten to align with the rings on the blind, plus an extra screw eye to the side you want to pull the cords from.
Fasten cord to each bottom ring and thread upwards and onto the eyelets on the batten. Take all the cords to the side you want to secure the blind through the extra eyelet. Thread cords through blind acorn, knot and trim. Fit the cleat and use to secure the blind when it’s pulled up.
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