Country Guides Country Guide: Antigua

Date Published:

28/05/2008

Antigua is an island that measures a dainty 14 miles by 11 miles and shies away from several other Caribbean cloned destinations with their contrived, staged resorts. In the past it was little more than one big sugar factory that brought huge wealth to the British settlers from the 17th to the 20th century, but now Antigua resembles one white powdery beach with an island planted in the middle.

The warm sea has a luminous, almost fluorescent quality as the sun skims the surface. Dilapidated timber houses decorated in sun baked bright or pastel hues are juxtaposed against the colonial style homes of the wealthy, less vibrant in colour with sweeping decked terraces and pricey cars parked on the drives. The countryside is a carpet of rich, luxuriant vegetation. Aside from the palms and vibrant shrubs, the explosion of colours in the blooms of lilies, bird of paradise flowers, bougainvillea, cannas, hibiscus and oleander, is a feast for the eyes and for the many hummingbirds probing for nectar.

St Johns is the capital of Antigua and docking point for the colossal cruise ships that drop off their cargo of bodies for tax-free shopping. It is a kaleidoscope of colours, sounds and smells. On every street corner people sell stacks of freshly harvested sugar cane, coconuts and pineapples, ingredients that appear on the menus of the island's many restaurants alongside succulent lobster and fine wines. Reggae music blasts from vast Hi-fi speakers stacked onto the pavements, making the streets vibrate as people amble about their daily business. No particular rush, no particular purpose.

The children are nothing short of beautiful. Little girls in smart dresses with ribbons and clips in their hair. Little boys in miniature Nike trainers and crisp cotton shirts. All with stunning bright white eyes and teeth, some with their hair styled into huge bouffants, others with neat braids or their locks tucked up into tall knitted hats.

The West Indian music that emanates from every car stereo forms the rhythm of day to day life. The phrase "Have a nice day" is meant genuinely, not as a cheap throwaway motto. If only this tropical lilt could be canned and taken home as a souvenir.