
My floorboards have a woodworm infestation. What’s the best way of dealing with this so I don’t have to rip them out? Also, should I use a chemical treatment on them?
Bevis Claxton says If these woodworm are ‘furniture beetle’, they will be attracted by damp timber. Not ringing wet, just enough to soften the timber for the jaws of their larvae. It’s necessary to dry out the boards with good ventilation, and try and keep the condensation to a minimum. Future eggs will eventually be laid elsewhere, but this can take some time. Identify new infestations by waxing old flight holes, although fresh wood dust is an instant giveaway.
Chemical treatments that poison can also kill natural predators, and in practice, the level of treatment necessary to poison every last cubic centimetre of wood is difficult to achieve. Selective treatment is possible, but it’s extremely toxic. Making the wood indigestibly dry is the less toxic, and usually cheaper, option. If floorboards have been weakened, and were old enough to have become attractive to woodworm, they may not be easy to replicate off-the-shelf anyway. However, they might be repairable – either strengthened with ‘invisible’ reinforcements underneath or professionally patched using straightforward joinery techniques. It’s also worth taking a look at the condition of any timber structure underneath. For authenticity, conservationists tend to resist swapping damaged floorboards around since the pattern of historical wear and tear can be distorted.
As I work full-time, would you advise I hire a project manager to oversee my self-build? Although I’ll have to pay out in the first instance, will this save me money in the long run?
Peter Caplehorn replies Almost certainly. Unless you already have some related skills, then a good project manager can bring a lot of experience to the project. The level of work they undertake will normally depend on how complex the project is, and the size of your budget. On small projects, you might wish to use a project manger for the actual on-site work and leave the planning and building elements to your architect. An alternative option would be to hire an architect with project management skills, as traditionally, architects on small projects have always taken on the management of the build.
If you decide to take on some of these elements yourself, then dividing up the project into simple sections as per the Royal Institute of British Architects’ plan of work (search for ‘plan of work’ at architecture.com), should allow you to undertake them with good assistance from a skilled professional in that particular area. Many people would argue that the skill and experience the project manager brings will more than pay for itself throughout the build. They should be able to avoid most of the problems and pitfalls, and look ahead to minimise any future mistakes or obvious issues. That said, they are not all powerful and problems are often caused well away from the project that will impact on approvals and deliveries. These will happen no matter who is running the project, but at least with a professional in charge these problems can be minimised. They can use their experience to set contingencies and map out the finer details.
What’s more, if you intend to continue working full-time, hiring a project manager is also good for your health and allows you to concentrate on the bigger picture. To make sure you hire the right person, try to get recommendations and take a look at their past work. You should also interview them as it’s essential to hire someone you get on well with and can trust. Whichever route you choose, try to make all the decisions prior to the build starting. Good planning pays dividends, and the fewer changes there are, the better the end result will be.

This edition of Ask The Experts is taken from the July issue of Grand Designs magazine. If you would like to subscribe for as little as £9 then head here to find out more.
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