
I’m planning to build my own home and want to use an architect, but I’m finding it difficult to convey my ideas.
Deborah Saunt says To start, it’s important to remember you don’t need to be an artist to start conveying your ideas. In my experience, clients come to me with a range of ways to convey their plans. The most obvious route is to start a scrapbook where you gather together inspirational images that have significance for you – and the reason does not have to be crystal clear. I’ve found most clients find the looseness of this approach very satisfying and not too limiting. From an assortment of magazine pages, postcards and faded photographs, your architect can draw together a sense of where you want the project to go. Or gather a series of weblinks or dowloaded jpegs and create a file of references.
Another approach is to think of one object in your home that you prize above all others. Explain to your architect what it is about the object that ‘speaks’ to you. It may be that it evokes a certain culture or destination where you felt happy (like a Moroccan rug with rich colours, hand-made feel and associations of warmth, frugality, hospitality, etc), or something might inspire you because it is technically perfect and well-made (a beautifully designed dinner service where the cutlery is made from well-crafted stainless steel with its sense of durability, sophisticated technology yet practicality, for example).
I once had a client show me some ancient, rusty, hand-held sheep shears from the outback of Australia that were held together with twine. From this object a whole series of values were revealed that helped me understand the priorities and aesthetics of my client – simple, enduring, cleverly put together with the minimum expense, energy consumption or technical assistance, timeless, unpainted and evocative of another time.
If you are less into associations, then making models might appeal. I have an artist friend who modelled her new extension out of cereal packets and sticky tape with a fabulous end result that really captures her personality. At the end of the day, the space is a simple canvas upon which she can happily make her mark and her way of working let her architect understand her needs. Finally, both parties really need to sign off an agreed brief before too much work is developed in detail. In my case, I always write down what I have understood from my client during conversations based on these images, jottings, models and artefacts and then send it to the client to see if they agree. Rather like a recipe, it is a clear brief that really frames the success of every good project.

I’m looking to install underfloor heating in my bathroom (which will be a wet room with tiled floor), but am unsure about whether a wet or electric system would be more suitable. The room is relatively small at 2x3m.
Peter Caplehorn says This will depend on your existing floor construction. If it’s a traditional timber construction, you will be limited for thickness. The build up of the new deck, waterproofing, adhesive and tiles needs to be controlled to be close to the top of the existing floor finishes. You will also need to build in a small fall across the floor to ensure adequate drainage, which needs to be just enough to allow for surface irregularities and prevent pooling of water. To achieve this without an ugly and dangerous large step at the entrance to the wet room needs careful consideration.
A built-up or solid floor can be difficult and I suggest taking detailed measurements at the planning stage. It’s worth thinking about a complete system, such as those manufactured by Schluter Systems (schluter.co.uk); the whole build-up and drain can then come from one source.
The advantage of an electrical underfloor heating system is that the electrical elements are only a few millimetres thick and are held in place with a grid that can double up as the adhesive base. The exit cable is easy to terminate, but it’s always better to route it upwards to make sure you don’t puncture the waterproofing at low level. An electrical system will provide a quick and convenient heat source when you need it, either by turning it on at a switch or through a timer. However, most sources of electricity (unless you have solar photovoltaics) are currently less environmentally friendly than heating using a boiler. So if you want to be sustainable, a water-based system using your potentially greener boiler could be considered.
A wet system involves the same build up as an electrical system, but will be slightly thicker – at least twice as thick, even with the most advanced pipe system. Applying this to one small room is too complicated and much better suited to a whole floor level. If you’re considering expanding the underfloor heating to other rooms on the same floor, a wet system would be a sensible option. It’s also worth bearing in mind that water-based systems are slower to react and heat up than electrical versions, but retain their heat for longer once switched off. Finally, if you’re planning to install underfloor heating on the ground floor, incorporate insulation to ensure the energy is directed efficiently into the room and not lost through the floor structure.
A final option, which could be the best route if you are nearing the completion of the build, is to speak to your suppliers and ask them if they will consider extending your payment terms. It may be that once the build is complete and you have obtained your completion certificate, you will be able to remortgage to another provider. This may be an option as you ought not to be high loan to value and, as you know, more banks and building societies lend on fully completed houses rather than self-build projects. Good luck.

This edition of Ask The Experts is taken from the August issue of Grand Designs magazine. If you would like to subscribe for as little as £9 then head here to find out more.
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