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Expert Panel Ask The Architect: Ben Parsons

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Date Published:
16/02/2009

Got A Question For Ben Parsons?

Thinking about self build or renovation? Need some advice? From planning permission to building regs, budgets to barn conversions, our new expert, Architect Ben Parsons, might just be able to help.

Architect Ben Parsons

Ben Parsons' Biography

Ben Parsons is an RIBA Chartered Architect. He studied Architecture at Liverpool University and returned to the Midlands in 1999 where he began his professional career working for Glenn Howells Architects.

In 2003 Ben set up his own practice, Ben Parsons Design and since then has gained a strong reputation for producing buildings of a high quality through rigorous design. He works with developers and domestic clients on all types of projects and has developed specialised knowledge of working with listed buildings along with new houses, barn conversions and house remodelling.

Through listening to the client and developing ideas, he recognises the importance of sticking to a client's budget in order to create a deliverable project. Contemporary style and sustainability remain at the forefront throughout.

Ben works throughout the Midlands and London and is also a visiting critic at Birmingham City University's School of Architecture. He lives with his wife in Sutton Coldfield and spends much of his spare time cycling in the local countryside.

Got A Question For Ben?

Ask your question in the comments section below and Ben will do his best to answer on this page.

(Please note that our experts cannot enter into personal correspondence.)

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  1. In one of Kevin McCloud's Grand Design programmes a suspended ceiling material was used. This was a plastic sheeting material which was fitted loose and then space heaters were used to shrink it taught. I thought it was in the programme about the Birmingham Church conversion, possibly over the interior poll. Can you tell me the name of this material and where it can be sourced? Thanks
    Posted by Eugene on 10/11/2009 15:26:30
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  2. Hi Ben, Having my imagination light by a episode of Grand Design I have this question. I live and work in Surrey near the Hampshire border. A brief browse of land prices with planning permission has shown they are expensive. given the house I would want is an Eco Kit Self build are planning authorities more sympathetic to this projects where green or brown field sites are concerned? An example of the type of Eco self build is the Cloud Nine Bude V3,4 or 5. Is it possible to buy woodland and get planning permission for these types of wooden Eco buildings?
    Posted by Nick on 09/11/2009 15:34:08
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  3. HI I LIVE I A 1ST FLOOR FLAT, THE PROBLEM IS THE FLOOR BOARDS. ITS A FLOATING FLOOR,NO MATTER WHERE I WALK ITS NOISY. CAN I PLACE WOODEN BLOCKS UNDER THE 2X2(JOISTS) ON TO THE CONCRETE. PS HOW THICK DO YOU THINK THE CONCRETE WILL BE ?
    Posted by ALAN on 09/11/2009 09:43:19
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  4. We are re-building an original toilet/larder lean-to at the back of our Victorian mid-terrace since it was slowly falling down. There have been no changes to the size or position, only that we have installed french, double glazed doors and some double-glazing in the sloping roof. We have also knocked through the exterior, rear wall of the house so that the lean-to is now part of the back room. We started the work in November last year and when we enquired we were told that we would need to deposit a Building Notice and have the work inspected for a fee of £285. So far we have had five visits from the inspector and at each one he finds something else he wants to look at on his next visit (work is progressing slowly as my husband - a competent DIYer - is doing it himself). Now the inspector is wanting to check all the electrics and ventilation in the back room, even in the part that we haven't touched. We are getting increasingly frustrated at the inspector's reluctance to sign-off on our project, especially since various people have told us that we didn't need to apply under Building Regs in the first place. Please tell us who is right, have we wasted our money and how we can get the inspector to finally sign-off. Many thanks. C Davis
    Posted by Mrs Davis on 07/11/2009 12:10:03
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  5. My partner and I are looking to purchase an old property which has it's bathroom located on the ground floor next to the kitchen. There are three bedrooms upstairs and we don't want to lose a bedroom to put the bathroom in its place. Would it be very costly to have an extension built so the bathroom would then become a utility room for the kitchen and the bathroom be placed above? We would love to buy the house as it has so many period features but need to know a rough cost to make this improvement and if it will be very costly we would have to walk away from purchasing the property. I would appreciate any advice you may be able to give us. Thank you
    Posted by Gemma on 06/11/2009 10:26:47
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  6. Our kitchen is currently being re-vamped. It currently has two flooring levels. We had agreed with our builders on a screed floor to make the whole of the kitchen floor level. The screed in the raised area would be 25mm deep. Having won the tender and begun work the builders now tell us that it will take 4 weeks for 25mm screed to dry, thus setting our schedule back by a month,and that they suggest we have a chipboard floor instead. What are the pros and cons of chipboard floor versus screed floor in a kitchen, given that the floor will have to carry heaving kitchen appliances? Many thanks.
    Posted by Wendy Taylor on 04/11/2009 14:43:10
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  7. do i need plannig permition to knock through a gable end wall to make my kitchen bigger
    Posted by keith ratcliffe on 04/11/2009 11:35:18
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  8. hi there. i live in a terraced house with upstairs/downstairs, i have recently just had new windows installed in my property. the problem is that the old windows were tilt and turn and the new ones we got put in are fixed with just top openers. this is what we asked for at the time but not thinking about the risks of not having a means of escape whilst upstairs. the salesman that sold them to us failed to mention when we ordered our windows about us not having an escape route in the event of a fire even though its part of their procedures, there also isnt anything in the contract stating this. the salesman has since held his hands up to this mistake and i have been in contact with the head salesman to try and resolve this problem but to no avail. he reckons that they havent done anything wrong and says they just give what the customer wants. surely they have to get some sort of planning permission passed before fitting these windows? and surely the planning permission shouldnt of been passed in this case? i have requested that they change out the windows upstairs to tilt and turn, so we have an escape route in event of a fire. i dont seem to be getting anywhere with them and feels like they are just ignoring me. i have searched around into building regulations etc and they still throw it back in my face saying they dont work by them. have i got a case against them? and if so, how do you think i should proceed from here? i havent dealt with anything like this before so your comments would be very much appreciated. thanks again William Moir
    Posted by william moir on 01/11/2009 17:22:56
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  9. How far away from a boundary do you have to build an extension if you don't have the permission of the neighbours? Our builder says it's called "Build Near". Is there such a thing?
    Posted by hairydel on 31/10/2009 20:39:23
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  10. hi Ben, my daughter and her boyfriend want to move in together but cannot find affordable accomadation. We live in a small village in N.Herefordshire in a three bed house with large garage at the side. would i need planning to change the garage into living accom.'Is it possible to create a annex for a budget of approx ?25.000 or less? general oppinion seems to knock it down and start again, but it seems pretty sound to me.! Advice please before i get builders to quote for this job.
    Posted by susan brookes on 31/10/2009 13:03:14
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  11. We have an old lean to which is our kitchen it is 2.24m x 2.49m in size it has a sink and pipes for the gas cooker etc. We wanted to rebuild this and were wondering if we needed planning permission and also how much roughly it may cost. It only has to be a simple reconstruction.
    Posted by slssup on 30/10/2009 12:52:15
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  12. I have the remains of a very old house attached to a barn. I want to build where the old house was and convert the barn into one house. There is no access, no electricity, no plumbing, no sewage works, no water. How do I find out if I can get planning permission for this? I live in Lancashire.
    Posted by caroline morphet on 29/10/2009 19:40:32
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  13. I have got to draw plans of a semi-detached 1930's house with a single storey extension to the rear. I am having difficulty finding any such plans (to give me an idea) on council planning websites. Any ideas?
    Posted by Richard on 28/10/2009 18:00:56
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  14. I am building a new extention and would like to have a curved patio , Do you know of any maker of curved windows and patio windows,
    Posted by Liam on 27/10/2009 13:45:26
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  15. Hi I wish to remove the wall between the kitchen and dining room in a thirties semi. The wall is plaster on brick, it runs paralell to the joist and the floor boards continue underneath. There is a matching wall on the floor above but this is seperate also standing on the boards of the first floor. Is the wall structural? and will any extra support be required?
    Posted by Andy on 27/10/2009 11:51:24
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  16. I had a conservatory built in 2003 and didn't get planning permission as it didn't increase the size of the house we replaced an open balcony with the conservatory. Was this ok as i am thinking of selling my house and don't want this to be an issue for prospective buyers.
    Posted by Anthony on 26/10/2009 10:33:20
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  17. Hello, in order to get our small single storey extension on the way we'll need to do detailed drawings of the planned drainage/plumbing & foundations as we are very close to a public sewer running across our garden. We have got the design drawings but who would give advice & do detailed plumbing/foundation drawings? An Architect, Surveyor or Structural Engineer? Please help. Many thanks, Julia
    Posted by Julia on 24/10/2009 14:02:27
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  18. My daughter lives in a 1960's end timber framed town house,her builder has knocked all the plasterboard off the kitchen wall and removed the egg box type inner and what looked like silver lined plaster board. he says he is just going to put plaster board straight back onto the now exposed brick(this wall is the outer wall)I dont think this is right as the wires behind cannot be chased in, what should she say to the builder as he says its ok.
    Posted by Mrs Lord on 23/10/2009 08:31:06
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  19. is worth having my pre 1930s house cavity filled because i have been given conflicting infornation
    Posted by chris turner on 22/10/2009 13:55:58
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  20. Dear Ben Can you give me brief advice on measures that would make our large stone church at Peebles more energy efficient. I seem to have heard years ago of some kind of duct system or fan system that wofted warm air back down again from ceiling to pews. Many Thanks Anna
    Posted by Anna Presswell on 20/10/2009 11:43:41
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  21. Hi Ben, wondered if you could help. My husband built a flat roof extension 20 years ago, intending to make a verandah at some stage. Last year we put in French Doors, opening outwards onto the flat roof from the bedroom. The council now say we can't make a verandah but we can leave the doors as long as we put in a Juliette Balcony. Could you please tell us what the regulations are for one of these? How far out can we go and is there a width restriction?
    Posted by Kay on 19/10/2009 19:09:30
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  22. Hi, My partner and I are house hunting at the moment and we've come across a property that is in a terrible state but has excellent potential. We would like to take on a project like this but how can we estimate how much it will cost to carry out the work we would like to carry out on the house? Thanks Rob
    Posted by Rob76 on 19/10/2009 18:54:05
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  23. Hi, I've just bought a 1930s semi detached with some noisy neighbours next door (music, loud voices etc). I'd like to put soundproofing in but I'm not sure which kind to use. I've been told it is possible to inject insulation into the cavity between properties but I'm not sure if there is a cavity between the houses, or how effective it will be. Please can you give me some advice about what soundproofing to use and how expensive/ easy to install it will be. Thanks Tim C
    Posted by Tim C on 19/10/2009 13:53:23
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  24. Could you give me an idea of bulding regulations for a mezzanine of about 4 metres by 4 metres in terms of stairway, ventilation etc. Did the recent Home Show where an extra sleeping area with a glazed screen need planning permission. The ladder to the bed was lighter weight and steeper than for the normal stairs?
    Posted by Nina G on 18/10/2009 19:46:49
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  25. i put a conservatory on to my house with brick halfway there is a perspex roof on it i am looking to put a tile roof on there is a 4"by4"aluminum strip around the top of the windows would it hold the weight of wooden rafters and tiles or what would i have to do
    Posted by mo7777 on 18/10/2009 16:38:23
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  26. We have a three bedroom maisonette in the top half of a Georgian terrace house. We would like to move the kitchen to the bottom floor but the freeholders have denied us permission as this will be above a bedroom in the flat below. We have offered to sound and water proof as much as they want, we will not have a washing machine in this room and we have also seen this layout in another flat on our square, same freeholder. Can we challenge the freeholders decision? Thank you.
    Posted by Marie on 15/10/2009 18:50:29
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  27. We are building a replacement dwelling after a three year planning battle and hope to start within the next few months. Our architect has advised we commission an M&E engineer to advise us on heating, insulation, and ventillation and provide performance specs for our planned ground source heat pump in addition to other relevant plant. This advice comes at a considerable cost-is it necessary and would not the plant providers do the performance specifications? Is it overcomplicating things for a one off self-build, or will we reap significant benefit for this expensive service?
    Posted by Lillibet on 14/10/2009 20:56:59
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  28. Help....I am looking to replace a patio window (currently aluminium but 22 yrs old) and replace a window as a patio door. Is it best to go for aluminium or engineered wood (it's south facing) and sliding or bi fold. What specs should i look for? I have searched brochures, web sites , viisted Grand designs NEC and am still none the wiser and do not want to be conned!! Please advise, thanks...
    Posted by Andy on 13/10/2009 23:34:48
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  29. Hello Ben, I had a small conservatory built on the back of my house and it has been fine for 8 years. Over the past year I have notice gaps opening up between the conservatory (UVPC) and the concrete base at floor level. A few floor tiles at the front have cracked. My garden in on a slope, the conseratory is raised on one side with a brick wall and level with the garden on the other side. I have also notice the brick wall and concrete base is moving away from the house wall and a gap of about 5-6mm has opened. Should wait to see if it stops moving and settles or do I need to take action in any way? Please can you advise me. Thanks
    Posted by Angela on 13/10/2009 15:28:44
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  30. I have a very strong old pole barn (very big), what would be the best way to get pp for this, renovation or rebuild? It is very ugly and i want to renovate into mortgage (almost) free home. It is on my own land, but the land is a brown field site in greenbelt area. Thanks any helpful tips would be much appreciated
    Posted by rose on 12/10/2009 15:43:05
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  31. A neighbour is haveing a conservatory built next door. We are part of a 3 adjoining townhouses. The conservatory brickwork has been built right up to our boundary fence(which at present has been removed from the ground) and now that the guttering is on this now hangs over into our garden. The fence panels will not be able to be replaced where they were before. I am concerned re us losing our space as we also intend to extend in the near future plus the drainpipe overhanging our land and a possible peoblem with water pout=ring into our garden.Where do we stand legally.
    Posted by Judith on 11/10/2009 17:43:45
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  32. We have a large Victorian semi with the back and side walls currently covered in a rather ugly pebble dash render. We'd like to replace the render with one more in keeping with the property. With the threat of big rises in fuel bills and our aim to be as green as we can we'd like to use a thermal render. Are they worth the extra cash, do they really work and where can we find a supplier to supply and fit?
    Posted by Andrea on 10/10/2009 20:52:56
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  33. We need to create a loft hatch in another area of the ceiling of the landing as the toilet and bathroom have been knocked into one and the original loft hatch has been boarded over. We are looking to install a loft hatch with pull-down loft ladder. My husband is a roofer and feels he knows what he has to do but I would like some advice, please, before I let him go ahead with this project. Many thanks.
    Posted by Margaret Swann on 09/10/2009 12:03:33
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  34. Hi Ben, got five bedroomed house with internal garage,large garden built 1989. Requires update. Need to downsize.Got permission to demolish garage and obviously space above which is bedroom, en suite and walk in wardrobe. Building would be garage area and part of garden and have planning consent for four bedroomed house. What are your comments on pitfalls, cost, outcome of ultimate value. My view is that the aims to reduce the garden maintenance, house cleaning and forgo spending on old house would be achieved. My partner is not so sure.At the moment trying to get estimates for demolition and building works to access whether the work and stress would be worthwhile!
    Posted by theresa on 05/10/2009 23:31:36
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  35. We live in a detached 2 bedroom house built approx early 1970. Since living in the house for approx 3 years we have always noticed that both bedrooms which are at the back and front respectively appear to shake every now and then. You tend to notice it more when you are laying in bed. Do you think that this could be a subsidence or heave problem ? Also the bedroom door to the front bedroom has started to stick at the top of the door. We have not noticed any major cracks either inside or outside the house. Would appreciate any advise that you may be able to give. Regards Karen
    Posted by Karen on 04/10/2009 12:41:21
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  36. I am looking to extend my house and do not know where to start when it comes to architects and how to choose a good one.? Any tips
    Posted by Agnes Boniface on 02/10/2009 21:44:56
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  37. Hi Be, We have recently put an offer on a victorian house and has been accepted. It is a late victorian double fronted property. It is converted into 4 flats (1984), and is empty at present. What do we do or what is needed to convert back to its original state? Pls advise. Nasheem
    Posted by Nasheem on 29/09/2009 15:46:47
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  38. Hi Ben, I have saw a house that i am intrested in, it is a 1960's semi with a flat roof and a bit swedish in design, it has 2 bedrooms and a garage that protrudes. The question is I would like to buy it, but wanted to either extend on to the right of the garage, thus squaring the extension at line of the house or extend to a 2 storey. Would I get planning permission for a. Conversion of the garage b. Extending the garage to square to the line of the house. c. Would i be able to extend to a 2 storey, thus making it different from next door. d. Could I build an extension on the flat roof. I am desperate to make it bigger and if it is possible, I will put in an offer. Here's hoping you understand what I mean. Regards
    Posted by INGRID on 27/09/2009 00:56:18
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  39. Hello, we are currently considering buying a property of non standard construction, being concrete interior brick exterior. We are paying cash for the property, but want to know whether it is worth having it renovated to make it into standard construction, we understand from what we have read, that the concrete can be removed and bricks put in the inside.Is it worth having done and roughly how much could we expect to pay for the work. It is an ex local authority 3 bed semi detatched property.
    Posted by Julia on 26/09/2009 17:05:46
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  40. Hi I am in the process of mending a retaining wall which the council deems unsafe and am currently contesting liability through a lawyer. However, given that - liability apart - the job must be done I also wish to extend the wall renewal to encompass sufficient reinforcement to allow garage /carport-balcony to be built (by me) later. As the original plans insisted that any garage would need to be placed in the rear garden (and not at the side of the house (where there is a drop to the next dwelling) who /what organisation should I contact to have an estimate of the extra cost of this option (what it will require - in reinforcement beyond a mere boundary retainer - to lift this restriction)? I will, of course, chat to the local Inspector to get outline planning permission before embarking on the extra venture.
    Posted by A F Collins on 26/09/2009 00:22:46
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  41. planning permission lasting five years-would that begin from when p.p. applied for or from when p.p. granted?
    Posted by magz on 26/09/2009 00:04:02
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  42. Cost control on projects is vital. Can you suggest any simple software or spreadsheet template that can help.
    Posted by David on 25/09/2009 02:17:12
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  43. How or where do I find information on how to calculate electric consumption of electrical appliances for a barn conversion
    Posted by louise johnson on 23/09/2009 21:43:48
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  44. We currently have a conservatory which comes off the back of the kitchen. We have two design requirements, one to make the conservatory a room that we can use all year round (as with all conservatory's it is too hot in the summer and too cold in the winter) and also make it a room that we can use for more than just having conservatory furniture in. We also want to increase the light in the kitchen. We have decided that we will make the opening from the kitchen to the conservatory larger and therefore let more light into the kitchen, but this could potentially make the kitchen freezing cold in the winter. Please could you advise us on conservatory / garden room designs that are available that would keep heat in during the winter and remain cool in the summer and that would also provide enough space to make it into a family room; currently, there is only really one wall that we can put furniture etc against. Alternatively, are there any alterations that we can make to our current conservatory that will help. Thanks
    Posted by Jenny Butler on 23/09/2009 17:19:34
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  45. hi i am 24 i was wondering if you could tell me how quick i could become an architect? I am a carpenter to trade and am sitting my advanced craft and higher maths! but once i have completed all of these i want to change and go to university and become an architect, i was hoping you could give me a little help to see if i am eligable to do this and because of my trade back ground and insight into the building trade will i be able to complete this in less time? regards
    Posted by Luca Pontone on 22/09/2009 21:53:12
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  46. My husband and I are trying to draw up plans for a new build house. It will be detached and not overlooked by anyone. The problem is I like old styles and he likes modern - how can we successfully blend the two for us both to be happy with the final design? Please help!
    Posted by Jenni Blewett on 22/09/2009 16:00:53
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  47. Planning a single storey extension. I believe that the original house was built on stilts or piles? I am also being told that this type of foundation work costs more. What is the need to build this way and would it necessarily follow that our extension would need to be done in the same manner? We live next to a railway if this has any bearing.
    Posted by Cathy Booth on 21/09/2009 13:05:28
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  48. Luci 18.08.09 Hi Luci, This is something my practice would be interested getting involved in. Contact me using details at top of page if you wish. Ben.
    Posted by BEN PARSONS on 17/09/2009 12:12:27
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  49. I'm considering a glass panel roof on a kitchen extension but am being told that this could be difficult to get building regs approval on. What are the rules? I've been reading about U-values and a maximum % allowed but I can't seem to find any clear guidance anywhere. Can you help please?
    Posted by John on 16/09/2009 22:56:57
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  50. I want to make best use of space in my kitchen,I have already knocked through an old coal shed that was adjoining my kitchen to create a dining area as part of my now kitchen area. My question is can I now block up what was the old inside kitchen door without needing any permission or contravening fire requlations. I would really welcome your comments. Many Thanks
    Posted by trish davies bateman on 16/09/2009 20:34:40
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  51. Hi Ben. I have a small parcel of land in East Sussex - 1.85 acres. In 1972, planning was rejected. The land has road access and adjoins residential rural properties. What would you advise on how to approach planning now? Should I be thinking along an eco route? Are there architects that specialise in obtaining permission in difficult planning areas? The land has been redundant for the last ten years; was previously part of the neighbouring property I owned. I am looking to apply and sell the land with planning permission. Hope you can offer some guidance. Many thanks.
    Posted by Tatty on 16/09/2009 10:46:39
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  52. We would like more living space by extending our lounge and kitchen on the ground floor, and extending our small bathroom and extending a bedroom/ensuite on the upper floor, the main problem is we have a high drop down to garden level, and we don't want to upset the neighbours. 3 bed semi garage at side
    Posted by Margaret Scott on 15/09/2009 14:53:07
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  53. Paula Lots of bathroom suite manufacturers make a spacesaver range of ware. Follow this link to give you an idea. http://www.ideal-standard.co.uk/homeowner/productcatalogue.aspx?r=1&m=94&s=1 This example gives some very small room dimensions. Obviously, you need to plan to avoid the sliding doors and maintain privacy. Ben.
    Posted by BEN PARSONS on 15/09/2009 09:20:52
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  54. Smurfette Check Velux %u2013 they do a support/ flashing system that allows you to link 3 standard velux side by side with minimal supporting structure to maximise light. Vitral make large roof lights with capability for opening. Glazingvision again make large fixed and opening lights. Apropos also do something similar. Google each manuf and it will take you to the website where you can find more info. Ben.
    Posted by BEN PARSONS on 15/09/2009 09:16:05
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  55. Jusine E I have used Sunflex and Sunfold before and they do timber framed units and thermally broken aluminium framed ones. If you are extending the width of overall height of a window to the front you may need planning. If to the rear, probably not. Discuss with your local planning authority. Ben
    Posted by BEN PARSONS on 15/09/2009 09:07:15
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  56. Ben, I am planning to buy a 1920s bungalow in Sussex. In the details it said it had a study/occasional third bedroom. In the survey I have just had done it says it is a single skin extension built in 1995, that would not be habitable by current building regulations. What does this mean for me? I like the bungalow very much but now wonder if the extension will be some sort of problem for me. I am a cash buyer, but as on a pension I will not have lots of money for costly renovation work. What would you advise? Will I have to rebuild it, knock it down, or is there a way to make it ok to use as a study still? The survey comments that the room seemed moist and there was some evidence of mold and woodworm! Apart from the woodworm being classed as an urgent matter, the surveyor says no more about work to remedy the extension apart from commenting that the felt roof may need replacing soon. Will it just be a matter of cladding, or insulation and a damp proof course, or what? Any comments will be very helpful to me. Thanks Star
    Posted by Opalstar on 14/09/2009 16:26:23
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  57. We have just bought a 1970s 4 bed bungalow which needs serious updating. I am trying to persuade my husband that bifold doors onto the garden are a good investment but these are high cost items and I dont want to make a mistake as we do not have oodles of money. Can you recommend a company? Do I need to contact the planners if the width of them is more than 2 metres? a big thank you justine E.
    Posted by justine E. on 13/09/2009 16:20:58
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  58. There is a gap between my cottage and my neighbour's of about 5ft. She erected a perspex roof over the end some time ago and now has put up a gate to stop her dogs getting out. One side of the gate is attached to my house. Is she allowed to do this with permission?
    Posted by O Rogers on 12/09/2009 17:23:29
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  59. we are converting an outbuilding into a 5th bedroom with ensuite and a small kitchen /snack area (we were going to add three 60cm units one which will house our tumble dryer - and a sink). The room is only 345 x 440cm what is the smallest ensuite design we can get away with without it looking too cramped! Also there will be no natural light in the ensuite. the rooms use is going to be mainly for visitors or an au pair, however by adding a sliding door looking down the garden we are hoping to create a wow factor room please can you advise us? many thanks paula
    Posted by Paula on 12/09/2009 14:09:49
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  60. I am in the process of designing my extension. I have decided on bi-fold doors the full length of the back of the house (5 meters) I am trying to decide which skylights / false roof to use as I want to avoid noise levels from the rain. I would like to maximize the amount off natural day light but I don’t want to be drowned out by rain noise when we hit winter. Please help. Confused. Many thanks, Smurfette
    Posted by Smurfette on 09/09/2009 12:22:39
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  61. We currently have a conservatory along the back of the house which has proper concrete footings and one solid brick wall the rest dwarf walls all of whgich are double skinned i.e. brick and block with insultation in cavity. The upper part if wood framed with windows and french doors. I would like to take the top off and replace with a tiled roof is this possible and what would be a ball park figure for costings?
    Posted by Mrs Lee on 09/09/2009 08:47:14
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  62. A query re the use of oak as he material for an entrance door. I have a grade 11 listed cottage, that is considered humble in its origins, circa 17th or 18th century. I want to keep an oak door that the local protection officer has objected to (installed many years ago, but only recently arisen as a problem, due to no consent applied for at the time, by the previous owners). The officer has objected to oak, as her preference is for painted softwood. She informs that oak would not have been used in a cottage of low status, but in 'higher status or earlier buildings'. The use of the word earlier intrigues me. I would like to know in which period oak may have been used as the medium, even in 'humble' buildings and cottages. Many thanks.
    Posted by Andrew on 08/09/2009 17:25:32
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  63. why was there barley in the walls down wales where my husband was working
    Posted by carol smith on 07/09/2009 16:40:57
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  64. hi i am looking to build a round house dry stone all and turf roof in scotland eco build. has anyone built a round house like this as a permnit dwelling. How did they get it through planning? As you can see i am new to this fred
    Posted by fred on 06/09/2009 22:45:31
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  65. Hi Ben Can you advise on approx cost,and where to find,(should I look locally)an architect to help with design and updating our bungalow.We're condidering approx a 35m2 extension(sing.storey)and to roemove 2 interior walls and a large inglenook F/place.We not sure what architects might charge for these services,which would inc. drawinds,planning etc. Regards G.Williams..
    Posted by gjw103 on 06/09/2009 12:56:57
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  66. Hi Ben We live in a 3 storey house (ground, 1st & 2nd floors) Each floor has a toilet. We were wondering if there were any planning restrictions when taking out the downstairs toilet to enable us increase the kitchen size? Thanks
    Posted by David Taylor on 04/09/2009 11:35:08
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  67. Baffled by the point of this bit of the site. I thought I'd be able to read through people's questions, that a lot of them would be relevant to my problems, and see your answers - it isn't even possible to get to the end of the questions on a quick scroll! Very odd.
    Posted by Deborah on 03/09/2009 22:11:51
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  68. Dear Ben I am currently house hunting and I have found a house which needs a lot of work, but has a lot of potential. Although my husband is happy with the project he does not like the appearance of the front of the house. Are there any companies who specialise in this area? Regards Tracy Williams
    Posted by Tracy Williams on 03/09/2009 16:34:38
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  69. Hi Ben. We are considering buying a property outside Sevenoaks which has a terrible existing extension(known as family room). Basically an old washhouse which is connected to the main cottage. We'd like to rip it down and start again, but as the other three cottages in the terrace haven't ripped theirs down already but have connected instead we aren't sure if the planning dept at Sevenoaks would allow it. Do you know how we find out initially?(and crucially before we make an offer?) Also any good advice on finding an architect in the area? Many thanks Polly
    Posted by Polly Noah on 03/09/2009 14:55:11
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  70. we want to extend are terrace house including enlargiing the 4th bedroom however the window in that room is too close to next door and breaks the 45 degree rule, if we alter the plan to omply with rule according to architect it would not be worth doing,as would cost alot moreand add very little space do you have any suggestions thanks lucy butler
    Posted by lucy butler on 03/09/2009 12:42:10
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  71. HI, wE ARE PLANNING A LOFT CONVERSION WANT AN ENSUITE BUT LOFT SPACE QUITE SMall can you give me any help? Ideas?
    Posted by julie on 02/09/2009 18:01:56
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  72. Can you advise me please on how to find a suitable architect to help me with a design for updating my home?
    Posted by mr Jon Pye on 02/09/2009 09:38:45
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  73. Hi, My semi-detached 2 bed house has an "L" shaped extension on the unattached side consisting of.. Garage (approx 19'2" x 8'7" interior measurement) and Back "porch" (approx 5'1" x 4'5" interior) on the back of kitchen. This was built before I bought the house. I am a piano teacher and am finding it increasingly difficult to teach, because the lounge/diner, and both bedrooms are on the attached side of the house, the walls are really thin, and I'm very aware of the noise being a disturbance to my neighbour. It's also quite a pain that I haven't got any "private" living space to call my own, and it doesn't seem very professional that all my pupils & their parents come into the room that has all my personal clutter! I don't want to loose my garage, and I'm therefore looking into having a purpose built studio on top of the existing extension. It would be accessed by knocking a door through from my upstairs landing, and possibly also having steps built up to it from the back garden. I was told when I moved in that the extension had been built "properly", so that a room could be added on top in the future, but how can I be sure of that? Would a builder know just from looking at it? If not.. who would I need to contact? My (unattached) neighbours on that side have built a 2x story, front to back extension on my side of their house. I get on well with them, and will obviously chat to them about it, but I'm just wondering where I stand legally, if they don't like the idea? Can they object and get the planning refused? Finally... I will need to get some quotes from builders to see if I'll be able to afford to go ahead, but then what do I do? I'm thinking... 1 - Architect 2 - Planning permission 3 - Builder Does that sound right? Is there anything I've forgotten about?! The new studio's floor will need to be strong enough to support a grand piano, and it'll need to be very well insulated to keep both heat and noise in, as it'll have three outside walls. The bit over the back porch I'm hoping to have as an en-suite (to the studio) shower room (sink, loo & shower) Is there any way you can give me a very rough idea of what the whole project would cost?!.. i.e. Architect? Planning permission? Build cost? Cheers! Christine
    Posted by Christine on 31/08/2009 20:07:25
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  74. Hi Ben I have employed a builder and want to take out my own contract/guarantee insurance. Can you advise how/what this is and where I can get one. thanks Geraldine
    Posted by Geraldine Cullen on 30/08/2009 14:56:50
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  75. Hi Ben.. I just bought a 3 bed semi which needs some work. The porperty has got chimney breast in both downstair lounges which are being taken out and also in the two rooms upstairs which i would also like removed. I am told by my builders i can not do this as i share the wall supporting the chimney with my neighbours. i do not fully understand this as i have seen properties which have had the chimney breast removed both upstairs and downstairs and I wonder why my case is differnet.
    Posted by donald on 27/08/2009 22:43:11
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  76. Hello Ben My grandad is currently renovating a property in North Wales. The upstair consist of three bedrooms and a bathroom which is situated between two bedrooms. All bedrooms have big windows and doors to exit rooms on to the hall landing. However the council are asking my grandad to now put some doors inside one bedroom leading into the bathroom and then one leading into the back bedroom so that an exit can be made should there ever be a fire. My grandad's question is really is this correct? Does this sound about right? All rooms already have doors leading onto the landing so why does he need to put doors leading to each room. Surely there is a question of privacy. I wonder if you could advise me on this. My grandad is rather deaf hence why I am making the enquiries. Many thanks
    Posted by Jannine on 27/08/2009 19:09:44
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  77. live in a road with large edwardian houses and some have been turned into 2 1 bed flats. My son would like to do this with his but has been told he would not be granted planning permission. Could there be some kind of prohibition order now on the road preventing anymore of these developments? Barbara.
    Posted by barbara egan on 27/08/2009 15:12:51
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  78. Dear Ben I would like to remove stone gable end of building and install glass inc doors on ground floor, which materials would be best suited, timber, metal or pvcu. gable is south facing, approx 4 mtrs wide x 5.2 mtrs high. What considerations would I have to take into account. Many thanks Paul Robinson
    Posted by paul on 24/08/2009 23:54:26
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  79. Hello Ben Can you tell me how much the current price per sq foot to renovate a property Thank you
    Posted by shadow on 24/08/2009 08:34:29
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  80. We would like to make an offer on a 2 bed flat. However the survey says that there is woodworm and that most of the ceilings and joists wlll need to to be replaced and possibly the floors. How much is this likely to cost. many thanks, Tess.
    Posted by hunter on 23/08/2009 20:06:38
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  81. Hi Ben, we have a 3 storey split level edwardian terrace house. 2 double rooms and a single room on top floor, large living room, bathroom and shower room on middle floor and kitchen, dining area cum 2nd living area and 4th bedroom on lower ground floor. Our 3 children have left home and i would like to have a bathroom on top floor but my husband does not agree as he feels the house would lose value if we did this. I would turn the bathroom on the middle floor into a bedroom to compensate for losing the bedroom on the top floor. Alternatively, we have plans drawn up for an attic extension which would become a bedroom then turn the single bedroom on top floor into bathroom. I don't know if i want to spend any more money on creating the attic extension. Can you please advise
    Posted by jaynehed on 18/08/2009 22:04:24
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  82. We have a piece of land on a bank (rock)in Cornwall overlooking the sea with a fantastic view. We like the idea of building down into the ground to create a dwelling looking something like a lighthouse/brow of a ship. How do we go about finding the right architect for this kind of construction? We envisage that some of the locals may not be too welcoming to this (or any other) development although it would not really overlook anyone. We quite like the idea of a partially grassed over roof to the rear to conceal the property from view as much as possible. Getting it through planning would be a great start!!!! Also what kind of cost would we be looking at?
    Posted by Luci on 18/08/2009 20:06:42
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  83. hi ben we have an attic which is already a room with an old velux window with substantial head room. my partner wants to put a dorma on it! is this nessasary? he wants us to be able to class it as a third bedroom, the floor joists are 6 inch thick at the moment do we really need a dorma? and how much would it cost.
    Posted by macykates on 18/08/2009 16:04:08
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  84. I've currently got a first floor kitchen extention approx 4m x 3m, I'd like to extend a bedroom over it. I'm not overly concerned about original foundations. I believe the extention was done with a second floor being added at later date. That said the local planners say they no longer have original. if the foundations prove not to be as discribed can I use lighter materials for extention above, timber frame or otherwise, I'd still like to keep a slated pitched roof so it would form an L shape footprint. What sort of costings would I be looking at, and what can I as owner occupier do to keep building costs to minimum as I don't really want to take on a loan or re-mortgage Many thanks for taking time to read
    Posted by George Ryan on 18/08/2009 10:41:41
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  85. how much would i expect to pay for a two storey 8metre x 2.5metre extension on my house
    Posted by rip on 17/08/2009 16:36:37
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  86. Hi there I would just like a question answered if possibble,I live in a 2 storey victorian semi detached house at the rear of the house our sitting room sits alonside our dining room.We wish to knock through an area and hang french doors do we use concrete or steel lintels and do we have to submit a planning application for the above work.Many thanks.I forgot to mention the wall is Non load bearing
    Posted by mark tobin on 17/08/2009 15:37:53
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  87. Hi there I would just like a question answered if possibble,I live in a 2 storey victorian semi detached house at the rear of the house our sitting room sits alonside our dining room.We wish to knock through an area and hang french doors do we use concrete or steel lintels and do we have to submit a planning application for the above work.Many thanks.
    Posted by mark tobin on 17/08/2009 15:36:08
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  88. I've just bought a Victorian terraced house which needs some renovation. I've never used an architect before but have commissioned an estimate from one for this project. I need some help deciding if this estimate is reasonable or too much. The total project cost will be around £25,000. The architect has estimated their work at £6400 (incl VAT), which is 25% of the total project cost. This covers survey and design drawings, planning and building warrants, detailed info for building contractors and inspecting works durign build. Hourly rates are £95 for the partner are £45 for the associate who will do 95% of the work. Can you help?
    Posted by PaulR on 17/08/2009 12:03:02
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  89. Ben what do you need to do if you want to a 100mm skin of brickwork against a excisting building
    Posted by michael eccleston on 16/08/2009 13:30:11
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  90. Ben My wife and I own a small piece of land at the rear of my property which at the moment has 10 garages on it. Our present home is to large for us now that our children have moved on. We have thought of building 4 affordable town houses on the site and living in one ourselves, but with the present economic climate the probability of selling would be poor. So another idea was to build what could be described as a coach house with garages on the ground floor and a couple or more at the rear accessed via an archway. Do you think this is a feasable project and what would be the first steps to take? Thanking you Mike Hewitt
    Posted by Mike Hewitt on 15/08/2009 12:51:12
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  91. If I bought a piece of rural/grazing/agricultural land in, say Dorset, can I put a mobile home on it without planning permission? and is this standard for any piece of land in UK? If NO what is the basic criteria for permission. Many thanks
    Posted by Debby Sawyers on 14/08/2009 15:25:37
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  92. I am a council tenant and in the process of purchasing the downstairs part of a small semi-detached house (my 'flat'). I have lived here for 16 years, enduring the sounds from upstairs (in what would be the bedrooms of the house) and would like to know how much sound insulation would cost - which i hope will reflect in the amount the council are asking me to pay - i am awaiting the decision of the district valuer and hope the information you give me will influence his decision! Also, was the council not legally obliged to include sound insulation when they converted the house in the first place? if so, should compensation be included?
    Posted by Peter Reeve on 13/08/2009 15:08:16
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  93. i am buying older flat,it is purpose built in the seventys, want to soundproof ceilings ,which are concrete.as we have people above.many thanks terry
    Posted by terry.bowley1@tesco.net on 13/08/2009 10:29:19
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  94. I WANT TO MOVE A DOOR OPENING AT THE BACK OF MY TERRACE HOUSE TO THE CENTRE OF THE ROOM. THE WALL IS THE END GABLE AND IS ONLY SUPPORTED BY 2 WODDEN LINTELS THAT OVER LAP AS AN OPENING WAS MADE TO THE RIGHT OF THE DOOR. I WANT TO PUT AN RSJ ALL THE WAY ACROSS AND BRICK UP BOTH SIDES TO CREATE THE NEW DOOR OPENING BUT LAY THE BRINKS ON THE OLD EXISTING FOOTINGS. DO I NEED BUILDING REGS FOR THIS? IF I DO WHAT WILL B.R GIVE ME AND HOW MUCH WILL IT COST ME TO GET . MANY THANKS
    Posted by james on 12/08/2009 22:24:59
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  95. I am engaging an architect for a planning application. I have been quoted £250 as an 'agents fee' in addition to the amount to be charged for the actual work. What exactly is an agents fee?
    Posted by Margaret on 11/08/2009 22:58:45
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  96. Hi Ben, I purchased a flat (orginally a house, converted into two flats) back in MAY 2006. However I recently recevied an Enforcement Notice from The Planning Dept stating that there has been an Alleged Breach of Planning Control, this being the change of use from a single dwelling house to 2 self contained flats. As such they have stated that the property needs to be restored back to it's original condition by this time next year(which I can appeal against). To top that, the solicitor's that acted on my behalf are no longer operating, along with firm that were responsible for the conversion (if that makes sense)although I do have a number of correspondences from them in regards to my purchase. My mortgage is with a well known bank which I continue to pay on time along with my council tax and other bills for my property. As a first time buyer I have well and truly been taken for a ride! I was totally unaware that planning permission was not sort prior to my purchase as if known I would have run a mile. Since my purchase I have NOT made any improvements to the property nor have I advised anyone to do any works on my behalf. I will be appealing this and seeking legal action! I am extremely scared and worried that I will end up homeless and out of pocket due to the negligence of the lack of planning permission by those responsable!! Please help/advice, I would really like to know roughly what will happen with my appeal?
    Posted by Michelle on 11/08/2009 22:11:29
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  97. When recently completing our extension we plaster boarded and plastered the loft, we also added electrics, it has a velux window and a carpet. We built in some units for storeage but also left a gap so it could be used as a desk. I do use this sometimes as an office and a place to store the printer. There is also access to the loft from the existing part of the house. It has pull down loft ladders rather than a fixed staircase as it is not possible to have a fixed staircase. However, the local council will not pass off the extension due to the loft as they are classing it as habitable space. It can not be used as a bedroom as you can't get a bed up there - we struggled to get our daughters pram up there. They are saying that our only option to have the extension passed off is to a) add a fixed staircase - not possible b) pull down the plasterboard which will result in the insulation falling down and remove the electrics. Also some of the plasterboard has to be there as parts of the walls are actual walls and not slanted roof. You are only able to stand up in the middle of the room if you are under 5ft 4. We urgently need some advice as we are now selling our house and obviously need the correct certification. Local planning is not being very helpful!
    Posted by Katrina on 11/08/2009 17:52:19
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  98. Hi Ben I have just added a conservatory to my dinning room and there is a wooden lintel which spans through the window head and has baerings over 9inches on both sides the timber lintel is apprx 8 x 2? the window has now been removed and has left an opening 2.7mtr wide and 2mtre high the upstairs floor joist run from side to side and not front to back therefore i presume this external wall is not load bearing i am would like to know if the wooden lintel is adaquate to cover this span of 2.7 wide now the window has been removed
    Posted by kevin dark on 11/08/2009 01:37:55
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  99. I have been inspired by the programme on different types of work in the home i.e. redesign not add ons, as we have already done. That said, we have lived in our house over 20 years - and fancy a revamp to suit our needs now. Would like to contact an architect - would like to know what the qualification I should look for. Our original architect is in semi retirement now - and was a recommendation. Masny thanks,
    Posted by Scottie on 08/08/2009 10:31:43
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  100. Hi Ben, How do you calculate the size of an RSJ and do you have to put them into the wall by 150mm. I need to support a load-bearing wall.
    Posted by Michael Mc on 07/08/2009 15:10:53
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  101. Dear Ben, I am currently exploring the possibility of selling part of my garden with planning permission for a single private dwelling (currently at the stage of having plans drawn up for submission to the local authhority)and would like some information on whether there would be Capital Gains and/or other Taxes to be paid if the application is successful. It would be my intention of remaining in the existing property on this site which I have owned for the past 13 years. Any information would be much appreciated. Yours sincerely Mr. B. Corbett
    Posted by Mr. B. Corbett on 07/08/2009 14:13:13
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  102. We have a room with a glass roof, the panels are beginning to bloom because of the pressure they are put under ie weight and length of panel. We wondered whether to go polycarbonate as it is lighter and cheaper but we don't want to compromise on style!! Can you make any suggestions?
    Posted by charmaine watson on 07/08/2009 11:17:51
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  103. My wife and I are going to relocate back to the u.k from spain,my question is if we buy a barn to convert do we pay VAT on the building materials or are the materials excempt VAT. Many thanks, Bernard
    Posted by bernard on 06/08/2009 17:19:34
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  104. why do we need approval or permission when wwe want to convert an abandoned old existing building into something useful
    Posted by khampepe on 06/08/2009 13:57:18
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  105. I would like to build an extension in the back of the house. This would create a bigger kitchen as at present it is a galley kitchen. My house is mid-terrace and the drains from either side of the house meet in my property. The drains are in the way of the extension and causing complications. I have not started any work yet and would like your opinion on what is my best option to overcome this problem. As a female I am surrounded by all male workers. I do not want to be conned out of my hard earned money. Please could you advise on the safest and best solution whereby I use the least money.
    Posted by Kevita on 05/08/2009 16:49:52
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  106. I'm considering converting my one-bedroom traditional tenement flat (Glasgow) into 2 bedrooms. Where do I start?
    Posted by heidi on 05/08/2009 15:29:49
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  107. my son took out his chimney breasts when he moved into his new house 5 years ago but he is now selling up and moving on and wants to know if he will need a certificate for the new buyers for this work that he carried out.
    Posted by Hazel Dunn on 05/08/2009 11:06:27
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  108. I have received planning permission, 2.5 years ago and have started the conversion of a bible reading chapel into an open plan living area. We are also having a link extension to the house and chapel. I have made a stupid mistake and left in a door way, this is now not required. There are already 3 doorways from the link so fire escape no problem, building control do not have a problem with it. I am also worried about a through draft causing damage on one or more of the aligned doors which are 4 metres apart, both being external doors. This doorway also leads on to a farm track so potential to walk into on coming tractors. Please help. Many Thanks
    Posted by ChapelVirgin on 04/08/2009 20:06:47
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  109. We are planning to swap two existing rooms (bedroom to kitchen and vice versa) in our 2nd floor leasehold flat. We have already had 2 quotes which say the work is viable but one says we need to inform the local building control officer, put sound insulation under the new kitchen floor, etc. Q1: Do we need to inform local building control officer? Q2: What other factors should we take into account? Many thanks
    Posted by mark Roberts on 04/08/2009 17:11:01
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  110. I AM THINKING OF IMPROVING MY HOUSE AS IT HAS BEEN ON THE MARKET NOW FOR 18MTHS, I WOULD LIKE TO CONVERT MY GARAGE & UTILITY INTO A KITCHEN DINER AND ALSO ADD A BEDROOM AND EN-SUITE ON TOP OF THE GARAGE, WOULD I HAVE TO HAVE DRAWINGS MADE UP FIRST BEFORE I SPEAK TO A BUILDER, WHICH WAY IS BEST?
    Posted by caroline on 04/08/2009 16:50:15
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  111. We are planning to extend and convert the loft of our 1930s bungalow and because of the relatively low roof pitch need to consider adding at least one dormer window to the rear of the property. We are keen to include a simple contemporary dormer but are struggling to find images of any precedents - the majority of existing examples in the area date from the 60s and 70s and dont always help the overall appearance of the houses. Do you have any recommendations as to suppliers or buildings that we could have a look at? Our existing roof is traditional slate, with the rest of the walls being rendered and painted cream. Thanks.
    Posted by Julie Curran on 04/08/2009 10:26:57
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  112. My 1930s Bungalow has been built form shuttering, stones from the local stream mixed with concrete. The outer wall has quite a lot of cracks in it, and a bulge in one wall, and we've had a report which said that the wall ties are corroded and need to be replaced so stop further movement in the walls. A builder said we might just as well replace the outer wall. We would ideally like to extend the bungalow, but are not sure whether it would be cheaper to knock it down & look at timber framed homes. The extension would involve a two storey 15x15ft extension plus trying to increase the roof height for part of the existing bungalow for a loft conversion, who can best advise on the course of action we should take.
    Posted by Wendy on 03/08/2009 22:50:29
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  113. I'm a qualified plumber about to commence a loft conversion for my sister in law (help keep her costs down). I've got a joiner in to do the stairs , but am going to do most of reaminding work myself. Building control have been informed. The span from gable end to party wall is approx 18-19ft. However there is a load bearing wall that runs up through house into the loft space at ceiling height (not supporting anything in loft). This wall is approx 7ft from party wall. My intention for new floor joists is to thunderbolt a 6x2 onto party & gable wall, then hang joists off these with joist hangers, using the load bearing wall as a support. Therefore spans of 6x2's would be 7ft & 12ft, is 12ft span permissible for 6x2's? Also what height should velux style windows be off the floor, for it to be used as an means of emergency escape? Am aware of most other things for a loft conversion eg:- insulating under roof (between eaves and then sheet over, gives 4"), fire door on entrance, insulation between joist with chicken wire. But would appreciate any further advice you could give.
    Posted by Northern Dad on 03/08/2009 19:52:48
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  114. Hello Ben, We just moved into a new bungalow and would like to add an extension at the rear. It is a dining room and kitchen with a vaulted type ceiling (inclined ceiling) I would like to have clean lines i.e. no rafters or cross joists or perlins showing if possible. It will be a concrete tiled roof with a gable end,to match existing, 18 feet wide internally x 12 feet out from existing. Ridge running the shorter length and into existing roof slope. At the gable end wall we want to have bi fold doors these will be 8 foot wide leading out from the dining (blame it on George) and a triangular glazed area above. Roof pitch 35 degrees Brick return at the dining end then the bi fold then a half width wall at the kitchen side with a 5 foot wide window in the centre of it looking out to the rear garden the same as the bi folds. Any suggestions or books to look at please???? Thanks Jack
    Posted by Jack on 03/08/2009 17:05:03
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  115. Hi Ben, We are mulling over ideas of how to get our garden bigger & also having a full width size conservatory. We have a brick built garage with an apex tiled roof. The garage takes up about 1/2 potential garden space. Could you give a rough estimate of how much of it would have a negative effect price wise if we were to have the garage removed? We have considered moving but our house is really perfect for the pre-schools, park, ideal location, etc etc but want to have more area for our little ones to play in. Thanks, David.
    Posted by Davidw on 03/08/2009 15:33:50
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  116. Hi Ben, We live in Melbourne, Australia. Like yourself my husband was brought up in the Midlands, UK. We are very passionate about the English heritage and we are planning to build a traditional English barn with modern features on our recently purchased farmland (230 acres with bay frontage). We have no idea where to start from here, we only have ideas in our heads. (collected from Grand Design and our experience of living in the UK). Tradional UK barn design seems almost unheard of here in Australia, let alone finding right architect. Can you please help or advice us? Thanks you so much in advance.
    Posted by Inge on 02/08/2009 01:37:06
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  117. Hi Ben, Im planning a loft extension (In Scotland) and have been working with an Architect who has provided finalised drawings. However, some aspects of the drawings raised questions for me based on some structural elements and apparent building regs. I called the stuctural engineer who had over marked the architects plans and he admitted that some assumuptions were made. I then challenged the Architect who then told me it wasn't his place to question the S/E. I thought it would be the job of an Architect to check over all elements of a drawing before submitting to a client, I feel he hasn't done this and has left it up for me to check.....but what do I know? I have now lost confidence in the architect and the drawings he has produced I am using and questioning other aspects,all of which will cost me substantial money if a builder follows these. Things like the fact that he has removed a hall door but upgraded all my bedroom doors to 1/2FR Doors claiming that this must be a protected enclosure, why remove the hall door in the first place? A builder has stated that the insulation specified is overkill for a loft conversion etc etc I feel I am being led up the garden path and don't really know where I stand. I can't really afford to appoint another architect. Is there any way I can obtain a second opinion on what this architect has supplied and advised to help me? I can supply drawings if required. Please help and advise. Many thanks
    Posted by Jason Byles on 01/08/2009 17:15:34
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  118. what is the best underfloor heating system to fit to an existing suspended timber floor?
    Posted by elaine rothnie on 01/08/2009 15:14:17
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  119. Hi Ben, i am building an extension on my existing 100 yr old school house, i am putting a basement in under the extension & would like sum advise on best way 2 do this, i hope to start within next 6weeks. Thankq
    Posted by REBECCA DE MULDER on 01/08/2009 13:48:09
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  120. Great to see a description of an architect that can not have a good reputation for construction of buildings of a high quality with his design but that he has the ability to work with both commercial and and domestic clients on various projects. Especially important for all those in need of an architects services is that Bens review above here states that he listens to his clients and develops the ideas with them rather than forcing his own opinions on them. That for me would be the most important reason to contact him. Cheers Chris
    Posted by Chris Builder on 01/08/2009 12:42:34
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  121. how do i strip thick paint from plaster moldings
    Posted by bert on 31/07/2009 19:51:55
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  122. Hello, I am a wheelchair user and seriously thinking about renovations to my flat to make it more functional for my needs. While I already know there is funding available via disability grants for improvements, what I am having problems finding is an architect or designer/contractor who is experienced in disability renovations and the possible options. I happen to be located in London. Any assistance you could provide to my search would be greatly appreciated! Thanks
    Posted by Catherine on 31/07/2009 16:47:31
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  123. I am very close to buying a Victorian terrace house in Clapham, South London. Nearly all of these are narrow but deep homes stretching back to the garden and are normally separated into 3 3x4m rooms on the ground floor. I really want to create something more modern and spacious by removing the walls and having a huge open plan layout connect lounge, dining area and kitchen. However, i don't know if it is physically possible to remove these load bearing walls completely (I don't really want to have arches or similar). I guess the typical width would be 4-5m and the length of the room would be cloaser to 10m. If it is possible then what sort of cost will this incur to replace the walls with supporting beams etc? Will I also have issues with the neightbours as my beams will have to rest in the party wall? I'm nervous about buying a house with all this work still to do without having any idea of what it could cost. I have a good builder but will this sort of project require an expensive architect or engineer? Many thanks!
    Posted by IanS on 31/07/2009 15:54:32
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  124. We own an extended 1930's house. It is double fronted with entrance at front in the middle. It has two south facing sitting rooms to the front - 11 x 14 and 17 x 16. The problem is the stairs are straight infront as you come into the house, they are quite steep and there is no hallway. To access the kitchen you must walk through either of the two rooms- this tends to be the one to the left as you look at the house. Our dilemma is whether to create a hallway either by moving the stairs across into the lounge (room on right) or leaving the stairs (just change the gradient)where they are and using space from lounge as the new hallway. To open the stairs it would mean chopping into a load bearing wall. By bricking up the current doors to the kitchen off the two room much of the south facing light will be lost - our kitchen benefits from this at present. We have an open plan kitchen into a 14 x 10 conservatory which we heat through radiators and we have a beautiful big garden. To hallway or not to hallway - your comments would be most welcome. Also what do you think the cost would be of creating the hallway ? Thanks
    Posted by Shamrock on 31/07/2009 13:25:44
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  125. Hi, We just bought our first home, and want to engage an architect but our budget is limited to £15k incl fees, appliances and build. What is the best way to find an architect that can work within a limited budget? ie there is not much room for big fees, and the build budget is not extensive. We merely want to extend the kitchen into the garden, making the dining room and kitchen more liveable. Many thanks!
    Posted by First home buyer on 30/07/2009 12:21:12
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  126. We have planning permission for our bungalow passed for a small porch with hipped roof and moving a wall forward 700mmon a bedroom ,total area about 4 square meters on the front. Also a rear extension with 2 sets of french doors with side windows. partial flat roof and extending a hipped roof for the rest, total floor area 21 square meters ,we live in hertfordshire what would we expect to pay a builder to do the work without going overboard an all the fixtures and fittings. A rough square meter price would be ok we have had six builders round to quote to a plastered finish but no prices back yet
    Posted by Chris on 29/07/2009 13:04:46
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  127. Hi Ben We're adding a 4x3 [wxh] single storey extension to the rear of our house connecting to a 3x3 room to create a kitchen diner. We're currently playing with kitchen layouts for this inverted back-to-front L shape - any suggestions? Many thanks
    Posted by Lishbert on 28/07/2009 21:20:37
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  128. I have a very bland 1970's detached house and want to make some changes to the ground floor which would give us an extra reception room. This would also allow us to create a bigger hall, if we moved the the front door to a different position. We feel this is also an opportunity to up date the front exterior of the house .How do I go about getting professional advice on what is possible and what would suit the building.?
    Posted by Penny O'Dell on 28/07/2009 15:20:14
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  129. Hi Ben, We have received planning for our house and we are waiting on the final approval of building regs (beg. of Sept). We would like to change a couple of the window sizes (one from 1800 to 2000) and have bi-folding doors instead of french doors. We have found a better position for the toilet area too but would need to have the window smaller and frosted. Is it too late to do this? Would we have to re-apply for planning ? Our building designer is on holiday and we may have to contact the council on this so that the final drawings show the correct position. Thank you in advance for your help. Steve
    Posted by Steve Pyke on 27/07/2009 21:15:59
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  130. Hi, I live in a 1950's ex-council house semi. Along ceilings and plaster of the outside walls, there are noticable cracks. Do I need to worry about them and what can I do to stop them spreading further?
    Posted by Lynne on 27/07/2009 12:35:03
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  131. Dear Ben we live in a modern 3 storey house. The kitchen and dinning room are down stairs and opened planned. We over look the river avon(fab view) and have an elevated position. I would love to move the kitchen to the dinning room at the front of the house so as the exsisting kitchen and dinning area at the back of the house would become dinning area and seating area. But the big thing I would live to do is to open up the view by putting in bi folding doors recone about 4 doors wide, would also need to put decking or something outside to walk out onto as at the moment it is a small balcony. 1. would i need planning permision for the bi fold doors and/or balcony? 2. Do you have a rough giude as to how much the removal of the kitcken and resite mught be? There is water available the other side of the dinning room for new kichen via downstairs toilet. Many thanks Amanda (bristol)
    Posted by Amanda on 27/07/2009 11:42:56
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  132. My daughter is a single Mum and owns a 1 bedroom house. She has a 10ftx 20' bit of land at the side of her house and would like to have an extension. Who would be the best person to help her with planning and costs As the plot is next to a car park , can she build up to the border? Any info or ideas would help Thanks...a worried mum and grandmum
    Posted by Jaki Robbins on 27/07/2009 08:05:52
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  133. Q1. I am in the process of buying a victorian terrace. at the mo it has the standard downstairs layout but I would like to extend the kitchen across the back of the property which will involve building up to a party wall - looking at the net this looks horendously complicated! - does my neighbour have to agree or do I have automatic rights to build against the wall? Q2. Same house as above has a damp but not wet cellar - is it worth 'tanking' it (no idea what this means but seems to be the word to use!) Q3. Is there anyway of exposing the rather lovely wooden floors upstairs without creating lots of noise downstairs? Many thanks Karen
    Posted by Karen on 26/07/2009 13:03:11
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  134. Hello Ben, Planning is approved for our double side extension and single pitched roof on the ground floor (extra 2mtrs - rear elevation). I've always had a feeling that we're not planning this correctly and making the best of the new space available for our young family of four (the building designer only went on my ideas). We will receive the final notice on the building regs by Sept. We have a large narrow plot and the garden is 130ft long and the house was built in the 1920's. Many friends are wondering why we're not taking the ground level extension further out into the garden. We will have a kitchen/diner of 5 1/2m by 5m. The utility and toilet will be squeezed into the corner with a width of 1 1/2m. The total build is 63sqm and I basing the cost of £1,000.00 per sqm. My husband is a plasterer and will complete the dry-lining/plastering and hopefully this will bring the cost down. My head is still spinning with the idea of re-applying for planning to increase the ground level extension. I'm worried about the building designers costs for the re-application. Could I re-apply myself to reduce the cost down ? Secondly this will change part of the config. of the building reg. drawings and I'm concerned on the structual eng./building designer fees and annoyance on the change. I feel that if I don't re-apply for the extra space I'm going to regret this project. I know I have picked the wrong designer but feel I have to go through with the extension as we're in too deep !!!! Please help.
    Posted by Victoria Pyke on 25/07/2009 22:55:43
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  135. i have a balcony at my apartment its basically a flat roof(bitumen felt) Is it advisable to put timber decking straight down onto it or is this not advisable. i believe that the tanilith in the timber can react with the felt also their is a chance the wood could chafe the felt. is their an alternative to timber or do you know of a product that can be laid beneath the timber to stop the above from happening.
    Posted by parkster on 24/07/2009 14:41:49
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  136. Hello please can you help? I am in the process of buying my dream barn. It's a single storey L shape. We want to keep the integrity of the main barn but the other part has fallen down and only has a back wall. We want to rise this part to a tasteful two storey which almost looks like a granary which would fit in with other barn conversions in the village. We want a two storey so we can appreciate the stunning views and have more space. We will do it all in stone and make it look very in keeping with the original barn. Can you advise how I can approach planners as they are very close minded. This would be a stunning development but in our pre application they said they wouldn't consider a two storey.Some people have said to just buy it and turn the one part it into a residential barn then push for the two storey once we have got initial permission to build something on the site. Can you help at all or give us any advice? If we left it as a single storey it would look like prisoner cell block H!!! Keeping my fingers crossed you will be able to help Thanks Claire
    Posted by Claire Simpson on 23/07/2009 21:12:47
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  137. Hi, I would be very grateful for your advice. I have just bought a house and has vision what changes I would like to make. However, I really have no idea where to start. It is only the kitchen dinner area which needs changing. There is a wall which need to come down. The dinning area is currently a sunroom lead onto the garden. I want to put in a spectacular ceiling which will lead a lot of light in. I want to change the 2 sides of the sunroom to nice glass doors leading onto a new patio area. Currently there is a step from the rooms to the garden, I want the patio to be the same level as the doors, so as to make it a nice open area. I just don't know where to start. I have ideas in my head but don't know how to put them on papers. Do I need an architect, or do a just need to hire a team of builders? Do I need project manager? Do I need permission? etc. I just need some pointers from you. Is there somebody out there who can guide me through all that? If so, who are they and how much does it normally cost to hire someone like that? Would it be a designer or architect? Thank you very much for your help. Evon
    Posted by Evon on 23/07/2009 11:55:54
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  138. i am thinking of knocking down my garage attatched to the side of my house and replace with a brick built single storey amenity room. can i build it from 4inch thick rather than the conventional 9icn cavity thickness or can it depend on the roof structure it has to support?? thanks gratefully!! andy
    Posted by andy on 22/07/2009 12:35:31
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  139. Sue 09/07/09 Hi Sue, Get in touch with the RIBA office in your area. They will recommend a couple of architects to you that will be RIBA qualified. Speak to them and check their websites and see if you like their style of work. They will then advise you on the service they can provide which will nornally include Project Management and can advise on reputable builders. Remember to check builders’ references yourself prior to commissioning unless architect can give glowing report. Ben.
    Posted by BEN PARSONS on 22/07/2009 09:24:27
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  140. Louise 14/07/09 Hi Louise, If you haven’t worked with an architect before then the RIBA offers some good practical advice. Also a download available. Follow this link. http://www.architecture.com/UseAnArchitect/WorkWithAnArchitect/WorkWithAnArchitect.aspx
    Posted by BEN PARSONS on 22/07/2009 09:18:40
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  141. Rich Benfield 08/07/2009 Hi Rich, Refer to my post on Tony’s question with regard to budget costing. Ben.
    Posted by BEN PARSONS on 22/07/2009 09:15:51
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  142. Chris 30/06/2009 Hi Chris, Can’t think of any significant downsides really. There may be an increase in weight as you say and the profile of the frame will deepen to accommodate the thicker glazing units but the advantages in terms of thermal efficiency and acoustic performance far outweigh these. Check with manufacturer on the exact specification of the triple glazing and the U-value. One of the panes, probably the internal one should have a coating (Low-E). My understanding is that there are slightly different types of Low E coating, some are better suited to reduce heat loss in winter from in to out and can also reduce heat gain in summer. Check with manufacturer or installer to conclude. Regards Ben.
    Posted by BEN PARSONS on 22/07/2009 09:13:28
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  143. Bel 20/06/2009 Hi Bel, Depending on the size and specification, it might be in the region of ?25,00 to ?40,000 depending on finish, whether you are introducing dormers and the scope of work on the floor below in order to satisfy Building Control (i.e forming a route down from the loft room that is protected from fire/ smoke, positioning the staircase etc) Perhaps also refer to my post to Tony’s question. Regards Ben.
    Posted by BEN PARSONS on 22/07/2009 09:01:50
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  144. Tony Leatherbarrow 17/06/2009 Hi Tony, For budget pricing, builders will generally use ?1000 per metre of new floor area and you could adopt this figure to give you a rough idea. This rate will give you a basic spec and to give you a reasonable ball park final figure you should then add in additional sums for items like bathrooms and kitchens (for sanitaryware/ units etc). You should also add VAT on to this at its current rate. Regards Ben. Ben.
    Posted by BEN PARSONS on 22/07/2009 08:53:47
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  145. Mike 16/06/2009 Hi mike, Look in the yellow pages or ask the council to recommend a structural engineer. They will then size the floor joists to the required size. Shouldn’t be more than a ?200 for the design. Ben.
    Posted by BEN PARSONS on 22/07/2009 08:45:27
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  146. Dear Ben, Could you possibly recommend an architect of good stature in the north wales, north west area that could assist with a potential grand design build. We are looking for architects that can offer design choices similar to a Huff house with green intent. Best wishes John Hughes
    Posted by John Hughes on 21/07/2009 21:45:48
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  147. Hi Ben! e live in a 1930's semi-detached with a curved bay window (bow) on the dining room at the rear of the house with a further one above that on the rear bedroom. This seems unusual as all the other 1930's semi's around us have flat backs to the houses with french doors out to the gardens from the dining rooms. As we only have a small back yard we were wondering if it was at all feasible (structurally) to remove the bay and install a flat rear wall with flat windows for the bedroom and french doors from the dining room. We would obviously loose space inside but are okay with that. Or alternatively change the bow into a rectangular bay like the bay to the side of our house. Thanks!
    Posted by Mrs P on 21/07/2009 20:33:32
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  148. Hi Ben I am re-decorating my bathroom its a reasonable size but we have barely no hotpress for storage. We have four bedrooms so we are thinking of losing a bedroom making it into a bathroom & using the existing bathroom as a large hotpress come walk-in-wardrobe. What are your sugesstions?
    Posted by Catherine Watson on 17/07/2009 13:32:08
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  149. Hi Ben. Please can you try to clarify the new planning permission regulations for us. Firstly we have a flat roof over our garage which we want to change to a pitched roof ( as its always leaks!!)nothing fancy. Alot of the houses on the drive have already done this. Also we have an single storey extention to the back of the house which also has a flat roof and want a pitched roof on that with 2 or 3 sky lights. We are getting very mixed messages from roofing contractors saying with the new regs we do not need it. Any help would be great. Many thanks Michelle
    Posted by Michelle M on 15/07/2009 20:36:53
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  150. Hi Ben We live in a chalet style house and i am trying to gather information on retro fitting insulation in the flat roof above the bedrooms also since having cavity wall insulation and all double glazing done we are now suffering from condensation in the winter any ideas or places to get info from Many Thanks.
    Posted by mick on 15/07/2009 16:31:45
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  151. Hi Ben. We are looking to do a loft conversion and a single storey extension on our victorian semi and wondered if you could give us a rough idea how much we could expect to be charged by an architect for plans and building regs? Thankyou.
    Posted by Louise on 14/07/2009 16:32:57
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  152. Hi Ben can you advise on how to choose good looking and energy saving double glazed windows? we are extending our semi and replacing existing windows that are upvc.the original windows were critle, the house is red brick, ex council, built 1947. we are on a tight budget and not keen doing external painting but i have seen some upvc that have wood effect finish that look ok. but the company my builder usually uses does not really convince me. Many thanks sarah
    Posted by sarah mc on 14/07/2009 12:46:50
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  153. Hi Ben I have seen a bungalow for sale that i am interested in but it needs to be extended and the whole layout needs re-arranging. Can you advise what is best at this stage should i try and find a builder or architect to see what potential the house has and what the options may be before i put an offer on it? Many thanks Nicky
    Posted by nicky on 13/07/2009 20:07:02
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  154. Dear Ben, From a very early age, my 15 year old daughter has expressed an interest to become an Architect, she is now 15 years old and have just completed her IGCSE examinations and is looking forward to start her A Level in September this year. Are there any information available for young teenagers to get involve with architecture, may be workshop etc.., basically some kind of guidance of how to move forward. She is now off for two months, very restless and not sure what she should be doing to move forward, and why does she have to wait until she goes to university to start learning architecture / design etc. Surely for such a creative sector like Architecture, kids should be able to / encourage to develop their creativity from a very early age? I need help to keep her motivated, as it would be sad if she loose faith because of the limited amount of information that seem to be available. Are there any practical things that she can do now to help her get on the right path? She is so keen to start her own portfolio in preparation for university interviews etc, but she does not have any guidance / mentor to oversee her portfolio and she should be working on. Is photography, looking at the design of build building a good start? I also found it to be very difficult for kids to get work placement (5-day) within an architect firm. Can you recommend some books that she can read? Thank you in advance for your help. Gerard
    Posted by Gerard on 10/07/2009 16:36:20
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  155. I own a 3 bed mid terrace 1950's ex-council house. I'm planning to knock down the wall(4inch wide single brick wall) between my kitchen and dinning room to make one big space. Who do I need to contact in order to find out if it is a supporting wall? If it is not a load bearing wall could I knock the wall down without building regulations..etc? I've renovated the whole house myself including bathrooms etc and want to do all the work myself.
    Posted by Shaun on 10/07/2009 16:32:05
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  156. I have brought a 2 bedroomed new build coach house freehold property which has a garage at the front and nothing at the back except my own parking space. However i would like to add on a balcony at the back of the house to give me some open out door space. Can this be done, if so how much would this cost, do i need planning permission, and what would the best sytle be? thanks
    Posted by Nicky on 09/07/2009 20:56:42
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  157. Our house needs renovation and updating but where do I start. Have spoken to friends and colleagues at work and they cannot recommend anyone as the work requires an architect and the work to be project managed. I want to ensure I employ reliable people and not be taken to ‘the cleaners’ Can you recommend how I should I proceed?
    Posted by Sue Pearce on 09/07/2009 19:04:09
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  158. i have purchased a property but it did not have any lintels on ground floor windows. Would i need certain lintels or would cat lintels be ok. could also clarify if planning permission is needed.
    Posted by kaddy on 09/07/2009 14:08:14
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  159. We have a very large window opening on our stairwell (3.4 X 1.8m)currently with 15 fixed panes (5 x 3). The wood is rotten and we want to replace with uPVC to match all other windows in house. We think 8 panes (4 x2) will be better, but are wondering about structural integrity. There is a steel support beam above so I don't think the window is load bearing however, we have been given 2 different opinions. One says a one piece frame is best (with 8 sections for panes) another says 4 frames (each with 2 panes) tied together with steel support rods is best. Who is right ? I would be grateful for any advice.
    Posted by Gareth Neighbour on 09/07/2009 11:28:32
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  160. Hi, I really hope that SOMEONE can give me a bit of advice... I am currently thinking of buying a 3bed semi in Nazeing Essex.Now, the house itself is quite normal but, if you can imagine I have a lounge and kitchen now next to the kitchen door is Brick Built side access which is covered above by brick work so its like an "ALLEY" way that goes from one end of the house to the other and has a back and front door. Now next to this "ALLEY" way is three different size rooms.. room 1 is quite a good size used at the moment as a utility room and toilet. Room 2 is a different size and this is used for fridges and freezers. Room 3 is like a work shop goes back deeper than the 2nd room. My reason for emailing you, is could someone, somehow, possibly tell me how I could possibly utilise all this space, I love the house as I feel it has so much character, but am just at a loss as to what to do. I am on my own with my two sons so unfortunatly, I'm not exactly the greatest DIY girl. But if youve any ideas, I'm up for it... Thanks for your time and really hope someone gets back to me. Tracy.
    Posted by Tracy O'Neill on 08/07/2009 19:50:01
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  161. hi just a quick question do you know what the average cost per sq mtr of a two story rear extension with pitched tiled roof (ground floor size will be approx 12sq mtrs 4 x 3) thanks for your time Rich Benfield
    Posted by rich benfield on 08/07/2009 16:55:54
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  162. I am an urban designer and a fan of the show Grand Designs, i am extremely humbled by the work shown in the series. I want to put whatever skills I have to some good volunteer work (construction / DIY) and help someone who may be tight on budget. It would also help me learn new skills in construction and detailing. I was hoping if you or someone in your team could let me know where to look for such opportunities. I have tried to google 'volunteer construction/building work' but have not been able to get any relevant results. It would be great help if you could suggest a place to start looking. I will be happy to spend my evenings and weekends. Hope to get a reply soon. Thank you for your assistance.
    Posted by ST on 08/07/2009 16:06:53
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  163. Hi there, We are embarking on our first build and have to use concrete floor slabs, is it necessary to leave air vents under the slabs and out through the external walls?
    Posted by mac on 05/07/2009 23:02:36
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  164. Im interested in buying semi detatched property with a large walled front garden and small back yard in a rural location. It is a Manze House attatched onto a Wesleyan chapel built around 1850. The property is situated on an A road (no footpath). There is no parking for this property (the chapel next door has a carpark). Would I be able to make the gate enterance wider to create a drive way into the garden area?
    Posted by leesters on 03/07/2009 21:02:25
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  165. I have had decking fitted in my garden. The intention is to put a good quality summerhouse on it. The erectors for the summerhouse refused to build the summerhouse as the decking has a curve in it the centre is 2 inches higher than the sides. how can i make he repair the decking. Best regards John Pilkington
    Posted by John Pilkington on 02/07/2009 21:36:43
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  166. Hey, I'm trying to develop my first property, however.. I would like to use a software to design the layout. Have you got any recommendations for software that can do this? thank you.
    Posted by Pwabzii on 02/07/2009 21:12:45
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  167. Hi Ben, I wish to put acoustic materials between my floor and the ceiling of the flat below to reduce the noise levels. The dwelling is a detached house converted into two flats. What material would do the job? I seen a Sarah Beeney show (property ladder) a few weeks ago and caught the back end of what I'm asking for, the stuff they used looked like rock wool, is this right? Also, I own the freehold to the propery would I be right in asking the Leaseholder to contribute half of the cost. Can the Leaseholder knock walls down or build a garage on the property without my permission? Please advise on these issues. Yours Truly C. Woods
    Posted by Charles Woods on 01/07/2009 22:34:08
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  168. THE PLANING DEPARTMENT ACCUSE ME OF NOT BUILDING TO THE APPROVED PLANS BUT NO LONGER HAVE A COPY OF THE PLANS WHAT DO I DO?
    Posted by PETER FENTON on 01/07/2009 21:24:58
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  169. Hi.What do you think about geothermal heating? We are converting a barn & wondering if its a good long term investment.Thanks!
    Posted by Colin on 01/07/2009 09:41:07
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  170. Hi Ben Interesting one this - and probably increasingly so, in view of tightening legislation. I was recently offered a free upgrade to triple glazing (from argon-filled double-glazing units) in hardwood frames for my upcoming extension. I'm thinking, "Why not?" Better U values, maybe also more heat reflection in summer?? Is there, however, a relevant downside of triple glazing I should consider? Increased weight of units is all I can find in terms of negatives. Any thoughts welcome. Cheers Chris
    Posted by Chris, Bucks. on 30/06/2009 22:24:07
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  171. Hi. I think I heard George say on the home show that you no longer need planning permission for a Juliette balcony, because it is not a balcony that you can stand on - is this the case? We would like to convert a window to french doors with a galss screen and handrail immediately on front, so it does not protrude - do we need to get planning permission for this? Thanks!
    Posted by Claire on 29/06/2009 11:35:12
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  172. Hi, I live in a 2nd floor, 2 bed terraced flat in South Ealing. I know that I can convert the loft space above the main section of the flat but, as I have not seen any other such conversions, I was wondering, if at the same time, I am also able to convert the return at the back of the property by building a flat roof out to the edge of the property? That is, us the whole of the loft space above both parts of my flat?
    Posted by John Ealing on 28/06/2009 06:56:18
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  173. I have purchased a builders yard in b46 area with all services connected, it is in green belt however i have sent a provisional enquiry to the local council at atherstone. We stated the site was a eye sore and if we cleaned it up a built a very green house with outstanding design would they consider it they did not say no or yes but we would have to put forward a good case? Ben what is a good case and what do you think. the site has great vehicle access the plot size is approx 1 acre. there are two free standing sheds. could we put a very large mobile home on it, or anything else you can suggest. Regards Mark
    Posted by mark stacey on 27/06/2009 18:40:44
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  174. do you know of any suppliers in Edinburgh or Glasgow of solar laminate products for conservatory[single glazed] Blinds have cost me dearly over the years. I need to find an inexpensive solution to the overheating/very cold conditions in my conservatory to make it usable. I have heard of a 'film' that goes over or under the existing glass. I would prefer a D.I.Y method. Thank you. Sandra. Edinburgh
    Posted by sandra,edinburgh on 24/06/2009 11:13:42
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  175. we are thinking of buying nextdoor,we are a family of 2 adults,6 children,NOT PLANNED. in a 3 bedroomed mid terrace,do we need planning permission to knock 2 houses into 1,and we would love to find an architect with real vision to help us design if this is a good choice for us to go ahead with,I have spoke to a few who all seem quite dull to be honest,any ideas? we were just about to start converting loft when the neighbours decided to sell.thanks aisha
    Posted by aisha on 23/06/2009 00:02:22
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  176. i am planning a small extension on my kitchen which also involves knocking down the dining room wall to make one big space. who can tell me if it is a supporting wall and what to do about building where there is an inspection chamber - an architect,builder or structural engineer?
    Posted by wendi on 22/06/2009 18:40:16
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  177. Hi LA Ben is on holiday at the moment so I am answering this for him. Without full details of the changes that have been made, whether they've conformed to building regs, etc etc, I can't give you a full answer here. I would suggest, though, that you look into the reasons why the freeholder wasn't consulted and consult your solicitor about protection. Look into the terms of the lease, too. This might give clues about whether, if the freeholder were to enforce changes back to the property's original state, you would be liable for the cost. Ideally, this is an issue you want to be absolutely clear on before you sign - and the only way to do this might be to contact the freeholder and get a written legal agreement between the both of you very early on. Good luck.
    Posted by Lucy 4Homes Ed on 22/06/2009 16:20:41
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  178. Hi Ben I'm a real beginner and would love some advice on how to spot a plot of land which could be considered for planning permission. Is there a rough guide on what the committees look for when granting permission? Thanks
    Posted by Victoria on 22/06/2009 14:15:09
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  179. a house I'm hoping to buy has some structural changes that do not have the permission of the freeholder. Is this a big problem. The estate agents have suggested indemnity insurance. Would this give me sufficient protection? Thanks
    Posted by LA on 21/06/2009 15:34:47
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  180. Hi Ben, Could you please give me an idea of the cost of doing an attic conversion on a detached 1938s bungalow which would include an onsuite showeroom.
    Posted by Bel on 20/06/2009 21:24:10
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  181. I am trying to organize a new build to replace existing bungalow which has broken foundations. in trying to list my options , on a tight budget, could you tel me if the straw bale insulation is cheaper than normal insulation and if using straw does this have to be treated in any way? also would the thickness of the walls make the design and manufacture of the wood frame more expensive? am so confused with it all, i would like to hand all the planning and design and management over to someone else, but cannot find anyone local. can you point me in the right direction? cheers jake.
    Posted by jake moriarty on 19/06/2009 20:43:36
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  182. Hi Ben We have a small 2 up 2 down house. I wondered if it is better to do a loft conversion or to plan an extension either to the front or to the back (which would give us a small garden). Thanks for your time Simon
    Posted by Simon on 19/06/2009 19:50:04
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  183. Hi Ben, is there such a thing as an average price for a two storey extension being added to a already converted two storey 'bungalow'? I am looking to buy a house in Edinburgh that is a bit small but if we can put an extension into the garden to provide a new kitchen/dining/family living space with a new bedroom and en-suite above it, it would be ideal for my family, however, as I have no experience of this sort of project I have no idea how to do rough costs, without getting a builder/architect involved. I do not want to buy the house if I cannot afford to do to it what I want... Can you help or at least steer me in a direction to get a feel for the sort of budget I am likely to need. Kind regards Tony
    Posted by Tony Leatherbarrow on 17/06/2009 15:07:15
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  184. We are looking at having a contemporary kitchen extension done and our architect is keen to use a fibreglass roof. I have never heard of using this material before. Could you give me a little help on what the cons are? the pros are easy to find on any fibreglass manufacturer! Regards, Michelle Moore
    Posted by michelle moore on 16/06/2009 15:09:12
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  185. hi i am thinking of doing a pc room in my loft but i am not sure how to strengthen the floor
    Posted by mike on 16/06/2009 11:22:59
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  186. Hi Ben, is it better to keep 4 bedrooms- thats 2 double and 2 single or to convert into 3 double. just wondering how it would affect the value. we are about to move after 21 years and have taken on a full renovation project.we dont need 4 bedrooms but just looking for the best layout for selling.The house has a family bathroom and downstairs wc. would an addition of en-suite add value.or should we leave well alone and keep 4 bedrooms. Many Thanks.
    Posted by Sue Hodgson on 13/06/2009 20:19:29
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  187. Hi Pete (comment 17/05/09) As you know to reach code 6, you will need to demonstrate that the building is carbon neutral. You will obviously need to prove to the planners that the existing building should be demolished and there may be various reasons for this, building a very efficient replacement building is a good one. This is an extremely involved subject so I can only comment in a generally way. Almost certainly, you will need to involve a specialist consultant - a Mechanical and Electrical Engineer and architect with green credentials in order to get to code 6. For basic advice go to www.cat.org.uk/ Regards Ben
    Posted by BEN PARSONS on 11/06/2009 16:33:10
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  188. Hi Chris (comment 13/05/09) A single skin of brickwork should be ok but it may need piers in order to support the roof %u2013 consult a structural engineer to check. You should be able to build right up to the boundary with a planning approval or under permitted development rights but you will need to give notice to your neighbour under the Part Wall Act. Regards Ben
    Posted by BEN PARSONS on 11/06/2009 16:19:09
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  189. Hi Chris (comment 06/05/09) You should talk to the local planning department and check if building on this land is acceptable from their perspective. If so then put together a planning application with an architect and take it from there. Ben.
    Posted by BEN PARSONS on 11/06/2009 16:13:38
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  190. Hi Louise (comment 18/04/09) I would have a word with the planners first of all to see how amenable they are to the type of development you are considering. In terms of value and flexibility in resale, I would suggest an independent building having its own access and land would be the way forward. If you can get positive feedback from the planners then consider your budget %u2013 possibly doing a joint venture with your family and then consult an architect. Ben.
    Posted by BEN PARSONS on 11/06/2009 16:10:41
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  191. Hi Lisa (comment 15/04/09) I imagine this was a type of oil or wax specifically for treating internal timber. I have come across this before but just be aware that it can result in a big colour change %u2013 i.e generally darker. Try in an inconspicuous area first. I’m sure it can be applied before construction but might make cleaning more difficult. Ben.
    Posted by BEN PARSONS on 11/06/2009 16:05:17
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  192. Hi Andrew (comment14/04/2009), You won’t need planning permission as long as the building isn’t listed or in a conservation area. If you are moving the pipe to the exterior of the building then I am assuming this will require a new connection to the drain system - if so you will need building control approval and can be carried out via a building notice. Ben.
    Posted by BEN PARSONS on 11/06/2009 16:00:17
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  193. i live in a bungalow with a quirky layout, would like to knock a couple of walls down. what regulations do i need to consider before this.
    Posted by lynngwood on 10/06/2009 19:30:23
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  194. Hi Ben, I am just about to build a house and was wanting to know if you know who manufactures funky tapwear. In particular I have seen a shower rose that has a rubber orange outlet. It is very cool. I am actually in Australia but if you know the manufacturer of such a product I could research their Australian distributers. Thanks in Advance
    Posted by Jessica Schauble on 10/06/2009 01:13:16
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  195. Hello Ben We are hoping to extend our victorian cottage in the near future and are interested in installing photovoltaic panels on the roof. Are you able to give us any advice as to who to contact? I notice one of the Grand Designs houses installed 720watts of panels and I wondered whether they used a company they can recommend. Many thanks BBB
    Posted by bbb on 08/06/2009 20:52:05
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  196. Hi, the house we're buying has a downstairs wet-room, separated from the kitchen by a wooden door. Does this contravene building regs? Should there be a corridor (however small) between the two rooms? Wet room contains toilet, basin and shower. Survey booked, but would like architect's opinion, many thanks.
    Posted by Jess R on 07/06/2009 19:33:03
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  197. Hey Ben-have a question about a garden party/boundry wall- old wooden fence was taken down neighbour then built a brick wall approx 2Mts high he then built astride this PBW-making it one of his garage walls which then would mean his guttering to this garage overhangs neighbouring property what can be done-local council planning and build control do not seem interested TA 4 HELP- Sue
    Posted by sue on 29/05/2009 08:53:52
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  198. Hello, I have a 1930s double fronted detached house on a corner plot. I would like to extend the property and due to it's unusual design would like to engage an architect to design and plan. I have approached several builders, friends, as well as friends of friends that have had their own building projects and engaged architects. With the exception of one, none of these would recommend the architect they had used for varying reasons. The one architect that I did get round for an initial meeting seemed pleasant, knowledgeable and keen but I have not seen him since. I have chased him up on several occasions with no luck and have now given up. My thought being that if he proves illusive at this stage what will he be like if hired? Can you please advise how to best find an architect for the job. In the past I have found Professionals and Tradesmans by recommendation but am having no luck with architects. Best Regards.
    Posted by Umberto Pietosi on 28/05/2009 16:43:03
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  199. Hi, I have 2 internal walls that i would like to remove at the rear of my house to create a large family dining area/living space. One seperates the kitchen from the utility room the other from the kitchen to the dining room. These are both stud walls and non load bearing(to the best of my knowledge!) Do I need to go to the lengths of plans and building control or am i clear to get a builder in without this?? Please advise Thanks
    Posted by sarah on 28/05/2009 08:26:01
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  200. Hi Ben, I am looking to develop an old house that is in need of a major update and extension. What are the typical architect fees i should budget for. What are the typical building costs these days per sq metre i should budget for. Are there major differences in timber frame houses v traditional brick costs. Do you have a preference for what materials are used these days? Thank you Phil
    Posted by Phil Eastham on 26/05/2009 19:32:23
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  201. Hi Ben, We plan to extend our kitchen into the back garden and have been inspired by the Channel4 website, particularly the glass extensions, rather than a conservatory. Grateful to know if we would we need planning permission? The plan is to remove the kitchen window and create an archway leading into the glass breakfast room. Estimated size about 12 square metres. Further grateful if you could please let us know the steps we would need to take. Thanks. Kind Regards, Tony
    Posted by tony hackett on 24/05/2009 16:22:49
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  202. Hi, I am wondering how much a 12ft by 13ft extension would roughly cost. Is it cheaper to put a two story extension on or have a single story and with the loft converted.How much are architecture plans along with planning permission? Many thanks.
    Posted by Dawn Ricketts on 22/05/2009 20:06:46
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  203. Hi, My husband and I are taking on a 1920 chalet style house with dormer windows in Surrey. It has loads of room downstairs and upstairs is not bad - it has three good size bedrooms, one single and two bathrooms, but all of the bedrooms have one wall in the eaves which are quite steep and it is not a good use of the space. We've had an informal chat with the planners who say we can extend but not add too much bulk. The only architect we have seen so far has said knock it down and start again but the structure is sound and it is a pretty house, plus we don't quite have the budget for that. Do you have any suggestions please for dealing with the eaves that will not upset the planners?
    Posted by Rebecca Smith on 22/05/2009 15:55:09
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  204. Hi. Show is very reassuring and entertaining. I have recently bought a smaller ex local authority flat.The kitchen is a real challenge. Its almost triangular and small.Looks like double chimney back to back with bedroom - may have been a range in kitchen as it was built between 1924- 30. I understand neighbours have all blocked fireplaces off so chimney is redundant. Would be great if I could remove chimney breast. Dont know where to start for help/advice. Would I need planning permisssion? Tracked down original plan in library - means little to me I'm afraid. Council who built it are no help at all. HELP! Cat
    Posted by Cat on 22/05/2009 01:06:20
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  205. Hi I am thinking about building a single storey extension at the back of my house. The extension would be where the current bathroom waste pipes exit the current structure and where the main waste pipe comes down. I think the main down pipe can be moved over to be beyond the new build, but not the bathroom waste would still be within the new structure. I also have a plastic inspection point on the patio (and plastic drain which goes along the full length to next door)which would be covered by the new build. I am the first house on this waste drain, so I think this could also be extended so the inspection point was outside of the new build. Can you tell me what the buidling regs are in respect of building over a waste drain and if re-sighting the inspection point would mean it was possible to build over it? Regards Paul
    Posted by Paul c on 20/05/2009 22:25:48
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  206. Hi, I live in a very small back to back house. The previous owners moved the kitchen into the main, ground floor room and then had a sitting room on the first floor and slept in the attic. The original area for the kitchen is teeny and I was wondering about taking down the dividing wall and putting a supporting joist in. Would this cost an absolute fortune? I've got a 100% mortgage so money is pretty tight! I'm happy to wait and save up if I know its something that will be achievable. Thank you!
    Posted by Katrina Ross on 20/05/2009 15:57:13
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  207. can you build on greenbelt land
    Posted by Ms Garvey on 19/05/2009 20:41:44
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  208. We watched the Grand Designs program, Minimalist Sugar Cube and would like more information on the "glass wall " design. We ae building a house and want to incorporate a similar design. Thank you very much, Francine 6 Peter Schnabel
    Posted by Francine Schnabel on 17/05/2009 19:44:29
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  209. Hi, on one of the shows i saw a wine cooler/fridge in the floor (not a celler) could you tell me how much they cost and where i can see one online. And are they easy to install, we are about to build a consevatory cheers steve..
    Posted by stephen gardner on 17/05/2009 10:52:55
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  210. hello Ben. I am planning to demolish and build a new house, aiming for code 6. Centrally designed around bio mass wood and log pellet boiler, solar panels, high levels of insulation and draught proofness. Do the planners have targets to meet? they are very lukewarm about any kind of development in rural sussex. Do you have any general advice about new builds and attaining code 6?
    Posted by pete mahon on 17/05/2009 09:35:58
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  211. Hello Ben I have a victorian house in Leicester with a flat roof extenion at the back connected to the kitchen, it has about 5m2 with french door leading to the garden and a small window. I would like to fit an atrium into the flat roof and widen the window to give extra light to the kitchen area. Would like your advice what cost should this job be costing me? Many thanks Fay
    Posted by Fayann Clarke on 16/05/2009 09:38:20
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  212. I am thinking of building a single story garage with an front to back apex roof, on the side of our new house. The space is quite narrow (8'4" approx). Can it be single skin brick at the side to leave as much space as possible? Presumably each end has to have a return on it. A garage door is 7', so it wouldnt leave much room, but for a small car and the usuall toot it would be ok Also, are there restrictions on how close it can be to the next door property?
    Posted by Chris on 13/05/2009 13:10:39
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  213. we are looking for practical videos of typical DIY eco-refurbishment jobs - can you point to some helpful videos showing how to put in secondary glazing in traditional windows, how to insulate an awkward loft, how to tackle solid walls (inside or outside) and so on? thanks!
    Posted by Martin Fodor on 07/05/2009 23:09:47
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  214. we are interested in building our own home, however we are not sure on the regulations of building on different types of land for example if a plot says grazing or amenity would we be able to appl for planning permission?
    Posted by chris on 06/05/2009 20:40:32
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  215. I have just turned 30 and now realise that I want to pursue my dream of being an architect. I've always been very artistic, studying for a GNVQ Advanced in Art & Design yet did not go to Uni as I needed to start earning money. I've been in the construction industry now for 12 years, testing building materials, so I suppose being exposed to both Design and construction would be an advantage for someone wanting to go into architecture. But what is the likelyhood of anybody employing a 30 year old who will have only just started their degree (foundation I'd imagine) in Architecture recently? Is it worth me pursuing this "dream"? If so, should I start with obtaining a degree? Your advice would be very much appreciated Thankyou
    Posted by BIGBOY79IN on 04/05/2009 16:01:14
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  216. hi ben,i really need help how much years will it take to finish university in order to be a architect?how much money do you get payed?i really need to know!
    Posted by joshua on 04/05/2009 13:00:48
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  217. Hello Ben Just some advice on typical toatal cost you would expect for an extension to our property. We have a detached 4 bed. house and wish to extend out , single story,external dimensions 19 ft x 11ft 6 in. Hip roof double glazed window at the end of the property and double glazed french windows on side. Two radiators and 4 elec. outlets. Two velux windows, and vaulted ceiling. We live St Helens (Merseyside). We have had one quote which in my opinion is OTT. We are awaiting others. Would appreciate an approximation based on the above. Regards John A Lamb
    Posted by John A Lamb on 24/04/2009 13:15:30
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  218. With regard to the roof top extension completed in Bournemouth (or any others) - did the owners have to change their lease and pay stamp duty again to complete the project?
    Posted by Diane on 24/04/2009 11:34:40
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  219. Hi Ben, We're looking at buying a house that's in greenbelt land. It's an end terrace, with land on three sides. There is a not so nice porch type extension to the front that houses the downstairs bathroom, and we were wondering if it were in any way likely that we would get planning to agree for us to change that extension to one more in keeping with the property - or even to make it a little bit bigger? Or is greenbelt just an absolute no? The land is very pretty that surrounds it, but the house itself is tiny. The only other thing I could think of was getting a low level shed type thing and making that into an outside room. Are we allowed to do that without planning? W Your help would be much appreciated, thanks, Alice
    Posted by alicecoren on 21/04/2009 15:50:23
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  220. new build. wood burning stoves , require information on how once a builder puts in a stack how the fireplace is designed with character . where do you get small bricks for back, wood for mantle that sort of thing. do people do this for a living?
    Posted by janette bell on 20/04/2009 16:07:07
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  221. Hi Ben, Having finished university and moved back in with my parents I am unlikely to be able to buy a property in the next few years. There is quite a lot of ground to the side and the back of our house, my dad has suggested that I build a self-contained flat to give myself some more space. I don't really know where to start. Building a detached flat or annex attached to the house is becoming quite popular in my area so I've looked around locally to see what other people have done. Where would you start and is there anything I should look out for? Thanks, Louise
    Posted by Louise Bennett on 18/04/2009 19:10:37
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  222. when watching grand designs at the finishing stages of a build i have seen owners treating oak beams and doors, using something on a cloth, just wiping it on. what is this and how would you recomend treating oak beams. the roof timber is not on our house yet and we were wondering if it could be treated prior to construction?
    Posted by lisa on 15/04/2009 20:12:22
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  223. Hi Ben, We are about to move into and refurb our second house in Banbury, OXON, having extensively reburbed our first home. I want to move the soil and vent pipe from inside the property to outside, as part of a kitchen and bathroom re-modelling. Do I need planning permission or building control approval to do this? Thanks Andrew
    Posted by Andrew on 14/04/2009 13:26:29
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  224. i planning reroof with two dormer windows one at righthand where the hip roof one at the back side at the garden my property has been alredy extended before i bought so do i need planning permistion to altration roof where the hip part to lift higher for space to hed under the roof for stare for loft conversion where the roof is very low it is semi detach tree bed rooms
    Posted by abdul on 14/04/2009 09:02:44
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  225. hi i was wondering how hard it is to becomer an architect after being a qualified joiner? i am nearly 24 and bein in the armed forces, now a joiner! wanting to become an architect how long or short will it take for me? regards
    Posted by Luca Pontone on 04/04/2009 17:22:36
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  226. weve a successful application to change our roof to gable end on our corner plot. the council then say we could add a dormer. if the re submiitted application fails how long would we have to wait to be able to build the dormer under the permitted development rules? the larger roof space would help and weve extended on the ground this spring and so have a larger floor area too - does this all help ? many thanks
    Posted by NH on 30/03/2009 08:01:19
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  227. wanting to convert my loft space to bedrooms to accomodate my girls with a bedroom each and possably a toilet.at present my joists are only 75 x 25,could you recommend a suitable joist to put in or could i strethen my existing ones by doubling them up with something heavier?could u also tell me if their is a height restriction when doing a job like this.the span of my house is 20 x 20 feet and from joist to ridge i have approx 2.1m high.
    Posted by alan morrison on 25/03/2009 18:42:00
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  228. Hi Kitty, I would suggest a single ply membrane like Sarnafil, Evalon or Ruberoid which should accommodate small movement in the roof deck. I suppose that Building Control are taking the stance that if you are just replacing the roof covering, that the existing insulation and construction below is untouched and therefore does not need to be uprated. If the builders are suggesting altering the deck in order to introduce a fall (worth noting that it is always desirable to have a min 1:80 fall but some membrane manufacturers will warranty a completely flat roof) then whether you are affecting the roof structure is open to interpretation. In simple terms, I am assuming you will be making a BC application so I think you just need to agree and carry out the work to their satisfaction so you can get it signed off. You may also need to check the fire classification of the membrane so that it doesn’t present a fire risk. It is a structural deck and therefore shouldn’t worsen the integrity of the roof compared to existing. Get reassurance on this form the roofer and BC. I would also suggest you speak to the occupants below and explain what you are doing and ensure that temporarily made water tight, you may also wish to consult the link below which may have relevant guidance on whether the Party Wall Act applies. http://www.communities.gov.uk/publications/planningandbuilding/partywall Regards Ben
    Posted by BEN PARSONS on 23/03/2009 10:27:44
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  229. dear ben,please can you help i'm in the process of building an extension to the front of my house 3 bed semi with integeral garage i am converting garage to a kitchen so i will have across the front upvc door with window then 4ft upvc window then kitchen window lt&rt openers fixed centre replacing flat roof with hipped roof, people are saying that the pillers between the windows cannot be 9 inch solid any more is right if it is what do i need to do.. please can you help me as a little bit confused as council no help. thank you for your time scott...
    Posted by scott on 23/03/2009 00:18:27
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  230. Hi Denise, Sounds like an interesting project. With new build houses I’d always try to have a reception hall from which you can access the other parts of the house and buyers/ occupants expect this. This is not always achievable without compromise with historic and older properties and I think expectations are different and the sort of thing you describe might actually be a nice characteristic. Regarding the windows, yes it would be nice to remove the upvc. They were most probably timber windows originally either with leaded lights or narrow timber glazing bars. There are lots of manufacturers who will be able to make something authentic using their standard details based on traditional profiles of that period or you can probably ask an experienced local joiner to make them up and you can find standard profiles on the web or via your local planning/ conservation website. You could also check with the Conservation officer. A wood burning stove with a back boiler is a nice idea and is a green and efficient solution and if you have a source or store of seasoned logs then I’d certainly recommend using it. I recall Charnwood have just introduced one but speak to a specialist to check required output http://www.charnwood.com For more general information on this plus the grey water recycling check the Centre for Alternative Technology website. http://www.cat.org.uk/index.tmpl?refer=index&init=1 If you want to discuss if further with me then contact me via my details above. Regards Ben
    Posted by BEN PARSONS on 16/03/2009 14:12:17
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  231. Dear Ben, We have a brick and glass lean to conservatory-about 20 yrs old and 20ft x 10ft. It currently has a polycarbonate roof that we want to replace as it is not energy efficient-too cold in winter and too hot in summer. It is south facing! What would you advise on replacing the roof e.g. would a high spec glass be the solution or are there other materials available. The room is very light so we could even go for a opaque material. Many thanks,
    Posted by S.Oakland on 15/03/2009 21:38:12
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  232. We are not planning a build as such, but a refurbishment: we have a 60s-built maisonette that has a 3mx4m balcony area, which we want to ensure is watertight and attractively surfaced. The balcony area forms the roof of part of our downstairs neighbour's home. The basic construction is concrete slabs, and AFAIK there is no additional insulation on our side. (1) What would be a good surfacing solution? I would like whatever we get to support wooden decking, and to have some flexibility in case of small movements in the property, and (2) We are getting conflicting Building Regs advice about insulation - potential contractors have said that extra insulation would now be required because the deck is someone's roof, but local Building Control say that this isn't required because the balcony isn't actually a roof as far as our own property is concerned. This is significant because insulation would raise the level of the balcony and affect the installation of our planned patio doors/windows. Seems like our requirements should be relatively straightforward but the conflicting advice has made us wary! We have been quoted so far for various membrane solutions and for a pour-on coating (Everest). Grateful for any help.
    Posted by Kitty on 12/03/2009 11:34:52
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  233. Hi Ben - My husband and I are considering a new build Oak framed house over 1.5 storey's (first floor will have floor to wall plate height of 1.2 meters). We have a couple of questions that we would appreciate some advice on: 1 - For costing purposes should we consider this as a standard 2 storey house or should the first floor be costed on the basis of building in the roof (i.e costing for roof space is typically 70% of a standard floor). 2 - For a very good quality self build using oak frame (fully project managed) could you advise what the guidelines suggest for costings per square meter/square feet? (our self build will be approx 225 square meters with standard windows and patio door to back). 3 - The oak frame we are considering uses structurally insulated panel technology (SIP) for the outside walls. Are there any down sides to this? Thanks in advance Claire
    Posted by Claire K on 10/03/2009 21:41:04
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  234. Hi Ben, A little unusual I know, but I'm searching for something to use for a hangar for my plane. I'm planning to build it out of wood, but I need a span of at least 12 meters. The plane itself has a wing span of just over 10m wide. I've looked at glulam beams but I think they will be a wee bit expensive for my needs, so do you think that the SIPS type beams (I don't know what they're called, but they're the wooden I-beam type!) would work for this width? I only need a simple structure, around 12m wide, but 8m deep and a simple light covering on the roof. I'd appreciate your thoughts on this. Many thanks. Ian
    Posted by Ian Wilson on 10/03/2009 15:08:22
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  235. Hi Claire, Narrow houses on narrow plots can work really well but they need to be carefully thought about. I would advise you to take some advice from an architect and develop some ideas. There have been some nice examples of courtyard houses where a central atrium compensates for lack of frontage. Pierre D'avoine's Slim House springs to mind as does Accordia Housing in Cambridge.
    Posted by BEN PARSONS on 09/03/2009 17:56:17
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  236. Hi Mark and Ciara, The most straight forward way to get the ball rolling is to acquire the site and then talk to an architect. The building will be heavily informed by the site and local environment. Things like orientation, important features of the site like trees and views, access and surrounding buildings will all have an impact. Ben.
    Posted by BEN PARSONS on 09/03/2009 17:40:10
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  237. Hi Martina, It is likely that you will need to apply for planning permission for the rebuilding of a solid structure. Call your local planners for clarification. However, there may be a chance that you can use your Permitted Development Rights to carry out the work and I have attached the link to the planning portal where you can get more information on this. Ben http://www.planningportal.gov.uk/england/genpub/en/
    Posted by BEN PARSONS on 09/03/2009 17:33:33
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  238. Dear Ben We purchased a two hundred year old cob cottage in oct 08. it is attached to a wood built flat roof single storey structure which in turn is connected to a mono roof brick built extension which we intend to convert into the lounge, (after changing the roof into a hip roof with a vaulted ceiling). These extensions were built in the 1960's and do not compliment the cottage in any way, so we intend to demolish the wooden part and reconnect to the brick part by way of a two storey extension which will match the cob cottage. we also intend reorientating the house by opening up the new part as the front of the propety. I have two questions. To access the rest of the property i have to access it from what will be the new open plan kitchen dining room, do you think this reduces value or should i incorportate a seperate corridor, which would then take the open plan aspect away. The second question is what windows should we put in to make the property as it was? At the moment they have been replaced with plain upvc double glazing and although i have been looking i can get no clear indication as to whether they would have been georgian type glass or square leaded lights. Sorry i have thought of one more question. i have been trying to work out what type of heating to put in. At the moment we have two log burning fires one either end of the house. We do not have gas. we do have dual phase electric from old storage heaters which have been taken out. we have no experiance of rayburn type cooking but i know they have back boilers for up to twelve radiators? i have also been looking on the internet at a log burning boiler. i say log because we have a log shed near us but from what i have read they do not seem as effecient as solid feul but it would be nice to be enviromentally friendly. The other two options are lpg gas or modern storage heating. we have to have all new plumbing so it does not matter what we go for other than installation cost and long term cost and ease of use. what would you suggest? Do you have any manufacturers that you would reccomend? Also would you have names of systems to recycle grey water. we have a well so i have thought of running surface drainage into it and trying to recycle that. we are just planning the property now so would welcome any help at this early stage to make sure we get the design correct. Thankyou. Denise Farrar
    Posted by DENISE FARRAR on 06/03/2009 22:37:02
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  239. I have a typical 1930's semi with shared drive with 3 cars and an old garage full of the usual stuff. What I need is a huge garage to take 4 cars and all the bikes etc plus a study/keep fit area. The problem is my wife does not want any more buldings in her garden. To get around these problems I would like to construct a garden basement large enough to accomodate the cars and a car lift a means of access from the house fitness area and study. Also with the amount of digging that would be needed i would consider going the extra mile and sinking piling into the structure to provide hot water for heating this area and the main house, using a ground source heat pump as in the Kent bungalow Grand design. I have no idea how much such a project would cost or how to even get started. I have funds up to £60000 through a re-mortgage I can use approx 1/2 the garden area from the back of the house down each fence line including removing the existing garage and replacing it with a carport and patio area. The Width of garden is 7m and 80ft in length of which 10m could be used from the back of the house. Can you give some idea of how to proceed or an idea of costs if you think this is possible? Any thoughts to move this forward would be greatly appreachiated.
    Posted by Kevin on 05/03/2009 16:52:21
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  240. We've identified a fire damaged chapel which we are interested in renovating. It is listed, but has all of the necessary planning permission in place. The structure is incomplete (rendered stone exterior) and obviously the interior is non existent. Ball park figure for a cost of renovating such a property?
    Posted by cadburysparrot on 04/03/2009 16:19:14
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  241. hi there, I am lucky enough to say that my parents are giving me a site to build on. I am a single 30 something and have loads of ideas but would like if there was any design pictures that you could guide me to? Thanks Elma
    Posted by Elma McCarthy on 04/03/2009 12:28:27
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  242. I have found a building plot with permission for a three bed, 2 bath house. It's in the perfect area for us - problem is it's only 21 foot wide. Is that ridiculously skinny for a plot? We would look to adjust the plans to suit our needs. In it's favour it's 90 long. Any advice would be great. Thanks, Claire
    Posted by claire on 03/03/2009 17:56:14
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  243. Hi Ben, I also have a derelict windmill in my back garden (brick built 35ft high round tower). I have just obtained planning permission to put a new roof on. The design is for 600mm high windows all around the top (to let light in to the floor below). The question is what material should they be made in? Wood = high maintence at 35ft; uPVC = asthetics/large amount of space 'lost'/taken up in the frames. What are my alternatives?
    Posted by Windy Miller on 02/03/2009 22:19:36
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  244. Hi Ben, We are thinking of buying some land with the idea of planning to build our own house but we dont really know where to start. Should we approach an architect with a budget and start from there?
    Posted by Mark & Ciara on 01/03/2009 19:13:05
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  245. hi!ben,i wont to build some decking of off the house,by the time i get out 12ft from the house im going to be 7/8ft of the ground,as the back of the house is affectivly 3 stories,will i need to apply to planning to do this?or is there another way to do this,cheers,look faward to your reply.
    Posted by royst dear on 28/02/2009 21:42:20
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  246. My house has a large conservatory on the back. It's approx 9m x 5m, do I need planning permission to change it into a solid structure? It's so big I'd like to make it into 2 rooms.Many thanks.
    Posted by martina on 28/02/2009 17:53:14
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  247. Hello Samuel, Being an architect is very rewarding and I really like the variety I get running my own practice. It has to be said that it is a very involved process to become an architect and it takes a minimum of 7 years to become qualified. This involves a degree course typically 3 years followed by a period of practical experience. This is then followed by a diploma course which is typically 2 years and then more practical experience. I would certainly urge you to consider a photography course as there are numerous cross-overs between this type of arts based area and architecture. It's important to observe things generally as an architect and photography will really sharpen this skill. I always think the best architects are good alrounders and are interested in how things are put together and can take good concepts to their conclusion with the least compromise. Perhaps try to get to the nearest university architecture department's next open day and speak to some students and staff and see if you like what you see. Best of Luck. Ben.
    Posted by BEN PARSONS on 27/02/2009 14:57:00
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  248. Hello Simon, This is an interesting question and when building in the ground I must admit I have always chosen either the reinforced concrete route or alternatively I have used a block system called STEPOC which is a hollow block system that is filled with concrete and reinforced. This is an efficient system and relatively cheap but it has to be said, not the most ecologically sound. Having thought about this, a possibility might be to use a gabian wall. If you are not familiar with this type of construction - it consists of a series of cages which are tied together and filled with rocks and they can be designed as retaining walls and therefore could be installed as the structure for the basement walls. You would need to apply a tanking membrane, probably to a sheathing system internally but this would be a very eco friendly solution especially if you could salvage the stone locally. I have attached a few link below. Given the thickness will be around 1m thick, it will be interesting to see how much insulation you would need given the inherent warmth in the earth. Aesthetically I really like this type of construction and I'm guessing you might be constructing something partially above the ground - in which case the natural appearance will help the building sit into the site. http://www.hy-tengabions.com/mass_gravity_retaining_walls.htm Good luck. Ben.
    Posted by BEN PARSONS on 27/02/2009 14:37:44
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  249. Hi Katy, In truth, you can do either a suspended timber floor or a ground bearing concrete slab. When considering a timber floor, there are certain procedures that have to be implemented to ensure the timber doesn't rot and to prevent condensation occurring. Firstly, you have to make sure that the ends of the timbers span onto external walls above the dpc or preferably onto joist hangers. You also need to create a void of 150 below the underside of the joists and generally it is recommended to cover the earth below with concrete or a dpc to prevent vegetation/ rodents etc. The floor finish will also be a consideration and if you are using stone flooring, for instance, I would recommend a concrete slab as there will be less movement. If it's carpet or timber flooring then it may not be such an issue. Another watch point with timber flooring is that the insulation needs to be installed between the joist with no gaps and held in place so it cannot drop down into the void. A ventilation path also needs to be created to dissipate gases and moisture. I woud agree that it is easier to install the drainage and it is a more sustainable solution. Being slightly cynical, I would just be mindful that if you are asking joiners for advice then they probably will advise on a timber solution since this is something they get involved in. Just to finish, ground conditions may be a consideration - if the ground is heavy clay for instance, this may be liable to heave and shrinkage and in this case a ground bearing concrete floor will crack and may not appropriate. Regards Ben
    Posted by BEN PARSONS on 27/02/2009 12:35:47
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  250. Hi Iain, Your community hall sounds like an interesting project and I would certainly recommend you consider timber frame construction along with traditional bricks and mortar. A timber frame kit, in this instance is likely to be more sustainable in terms of the embodied energy needed to fabricate relative to a brick built alternative. It will also be a lightweight structure and therefore there will be less work in the ground in terms of foundations in order to support. There are numerous systems and different building methods. I have used a cassette type construction previously whereby a load bearing stud frame is fabricated in a factory for walls and roofs and including insulation and cladding Another alternative is a solid timber system whereby panels consist of cross laminated timber sheets. These are load bearing and again formed off-site. Not to get too technical but bear in mind that this kind of solid system has a relatively high thermal mass. This means that due to the density and thickness of the timber panels, it will take more time for it to heat up and cool down than the stud system described first. Where heating and occupation are constant, this is normally an advantage but where you need fast response to heat (as may be the case here) it may not be. Also try these websites for general advice http://www.trada.co.uk or http://www.woodforgood.com/building-sustainably/timber-frame/ For manufacturers http://www.finnforest.co.uk/default.asp?path=200;256;795;796;1270 http://www.eurban.co.uk/ Also check the certification of the timber,try to source as close to the site as possible and introduce as much insulation as you can.
    Posted by BEN PARSONS on 27/02/2009 11:59:17
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  251. Hi Ben, I am a 16 year old male who wants to become an Architect. The reasons i want to become an Architect are. I believe i have a good imagination to create great ideas for buildings. I also want to build & plan my own house when i am older,have more experiance and the funds to do this. Last of all i would like to rebuild my mothers house which i have been bought up in.I think of it as unfinished work as nearly every room has something wrong with it,my opinion is that it wasn't built very well. Could you please answear the following. .How much work and dedication does it take to become a fully qulified architect? .After leaving secondry school what is the best road to take to achieving this? .Will graphic design & Photgraphy help in anyway as i want to take these at my local collage? Can you suggest any other courses to take to help me become a Architect? What skills do i need to become successful? Sadly my local collage doesn't do a Architect course so im hoping i can study this if i get to university. Thanks and please get back to me on here or via email.
    Posted by Samuel on 26/02/2009 23:02:34
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  252. Response for Houze j-f on 26/02/2009 00:10:21 Planning permission is not normally required. However, permission is required where you extend or alter the roof space and it exceeds specified limits and conditions. Under new regulations that came into effect from 1 October 2008 a loft conversion for your home is considered to be permitted development, not requiring an application for planning permission, subject to the following limits and conditions: A volume allowance of 40 cubic metres for terraced houses A volume allowance of 50 cubic metres for detached and semi-detached houses. No extension beyond the plane of the existing roof slope of the principal elevation that fronts the highway. No extension to be higher than the highest part of the roof. Materials to be similar in appearance to the existing house. No verandas, balconies or raised platforms. Side-facing windows to be obscure-glazed; any opening to be 1.7m above the floor. Roof extensions not to be permitted development in designated areas*. Roof extensions, apart from hip to gable ones, to be set back, as far as practicable, at least 20cm from the eaves. *Designated areas include national parks and the Broads, Areas of Outstanding Natural Beauty, conservation areas and World Heritage Sites. Building Regulations Building regulations approval is required to convert a loft or attic into a liveable space.
    Posted by Sam Hegarty on 26/02/2009 20:56:12
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  253. Hi Ben, not sure if you will be able to help with this but we have recently bought a house with a Grade II listed windmill in the garden. We are keen to renovate it as a residential property and my husband is an experienced builded, property renovator so we are able to carry out the project ourselves. However, we currently do not have the funds. Do you know of anywhere we can apply for funding for such a project or any grants/sponsorships that might be around? We are keen to use eco-friendly and recycled materials as much as possible. Many thanks, Debs
    Posted by Debs England on 26/02/2009 16:38:47
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  254. Hi there my wife and I are interested in building and eco underground house. but interested to know if you can recommend any products, other than special non water permeable concrete as it is not eco at all, that we could use for the shell of the house that would not allow water to enter the property as it will be totally encased in the earth Many thanks Simon
    Posted by simon on 26/02/2009 15:35:39
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  255. Hi, Just a quick question, we have started work on extending and refurbishing our house which is a detached property in Cheadle, Stockport. The builder has come across a little problem and I was wondering if you could provide a little help. Basically until now everyone had assumed that the ground floor was of timber construction as there was chipboard present. However, when the builder exposed the subfloor it transpires that the floor is actually a concrete slab with intermittent timber joists (25x75 or 25x100). Now we are going to extend the ground floor to the rear of the property and this extension was going to be of timber but will now have to be a concrete slab. We were also going to install under floor heating at ground floor. Now if we were to construct on top of existing floor then there would be a floor level, ceiling height and door height issues. Also, I suspect that any screed that we put down may not be that ‘sound’ over the areas where the timber joists are. Question now is that do we build on top of existing floor? Or do we excavate the existing floor and build it back up again as a new concrete slab with adequate insulation right through the property. Obviously there will be an impact on the costings as this wasnt envisaged and I think there is likely to be approximately 5 to 6 cubic metre of concrete based on 100mm slab thickness. I’d appreciate it if you could give this a thought and drop me a line please. Many Thanks Aleem
    Posted by Aleem Shariff on 26/02/2009 10:42:44
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  256. Hi, I have a house in France. The oldest part is in stone, the old barn in concrete blocks, and the new build in terracota blocks. All in a row. I am looking at insulating the inside with natural materials straight on to the different blocks concrete/terracota. I am excited about using straw,lime,etc... but I want a smooth finish with insulating values not less than r3. What do you suggest as far as the proportions for the mix to render, and can I apply the mix straight on those "raw" materials? The same question apply for the outside where obviously it would have to be waterproof and durable. Many Thanks J-F
    Posted by Houze j-f on 26/02/2009 00:10:21
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  257. could you please tell me if you need planning permision for loft conversion
    Posted by yolanda on 25/02/2009 15:05:32
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  258. Any suggestions, please, for a new build behind our house on a half acre plot within an aonb. Neighbours have built triple garage with accommodation above it so we think we should be able to get planning permission. We have fabulous views that we want to make the most of, and need to downsize as my husband approaches retirement. Would like to make the house ecological and economical. The house and plot is in Oxfordshire.
    Posted by L E Daniels on 25/02/2009 11:06:33
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  259. Hello Ben.. we are in the stages of planning our new scout hall/community centre and are torn between a wood frame timber cabin or a brick built building. Do you have any ideas an where we can go to get impartial advice on the positive and negatives of each. Also do you have any info on reputable companies that we can approach with regards to community log cabins.
    Posted by Iain Cochrane on 24/02/2009 13:04:28
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  260. To become a qualified architect you need to pass the accredited Royal Institute of British Architect Parts 1, 2 and 3. Completing University courses and undertaking practical experience in an architect's office is the most frequent way of doing this but there are alternative ways. See the following link for more info http://www.architecture.com/EducationAndCareers/BecomingAnArchitect/BecomingAnArchitect.aspx
    Posted by BEN PARSONS on 24/02/2009 09:08:45
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  261. Hi Bhatt, The efficiency of solar power for water heating and photovoltaics for electricity have improved in recent years and you should certainly consider this for your project. A good source of general information is the Centre for Alternative Technology where you can download info sheets and access further information on manufacturers and suppliers. There is also information on grant funding. See the following link http://www.cat.org.uk/information/info_content.tmpl?sku=info_is
    Posted by BEN PARSONS on 24/02/2009 08:43:55
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  262. Hi sally - I'm not keen on black framed timber windows in an historic building like the cottage you describe as they always look very austere to me. I would consider looking at traditional paint manufacturers like farrow and ball who make a selection of external paint for joinery. There are some nice heritage colours which I think would look better, especially if you match the other joinery on the facade.
    Posted by BEN PARSONS on 24/02/2009 08:35:23
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  263. Hi I am trying to get a self build designed and passed. My architect has put the plans etc into planning and they are due back in a month or so. But he has now told me I will require to employ an engineer to get design certificates to pass building control and get a warrant to build. Is there anyway to avoid this as it is a straightforward house design, can assumptions be made regards foundations, and can suppliers such as roof truss designers design the individual elements. I am trying to reduce costs. Regards Glenn
    Posted by glenn on 23/02/2009 11:27:58
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  264. do we need planning permission to construct a car port on the side of our property? it will be approx 9ft high and 8ft wide. Thanks, karl
    Posted by karl on 22/02/2009 14:17:16
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  265. Were did the couple from the "house under the arch" get there revolutionary solar panels from.
    Posted by lightfoot on 21/02/2009 22:44:45
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  266. Ben, How economical is solar heating/lighting/electricity production in the uK? What would it cost to provide for a six bed detached bungalow? Who are the bench mark manufacturers of these materials? Gratefully, Ray Bhatt
    Posted by Bhatt H Ray on 21/02/2009 21:17:45
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  267. I have a verandah over a car port which is covered with bitumen felt.I have access to this from a patio door and wish to use this occassionally.The felt would not stand up to the traffic so could you suggest coverings which would be suitable for this purpose. Thank you
    Posted by Frankie McMahon on 20/02/2009 21:28:20
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  268. Hi We are doing a new build and have plans for concrete floor but on speaking to many diff joiners they all say to use joists and wooden floor as there is more flexibility with things like pipes, cables , wastes etc. We cannot think of a reason to use concrete yet our architect said everyone is doing concrete now. Can you advise what you think and also let us know the benefits of concrete. We are not doing underfloor heating if that makes a difference.
    Posted by Katy on 20/02/2009 17:59:35
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  269. Is it possible to get in to Architechture without going through the University system?
    Posted by Youngandimpressionable on 20/02/2009 17:53:32
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  270. we are renovating an old cottage, there are 2 bay windows at the front, we are having 3 dormers above.we like cottage style windows either framed in black or all black instead of white - do you think black bay windows would look right as i cannot find any images of black bay windows? hope you can help many thanks sally
    Posted by sally tiat on 19/02/2009 17:03:23
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  271. With reference to Ros’s problem, if you haven’t done so already, contact the manufacturer of the boiler /underfloor system(s) and explain that the system is not working properly and see if you can arrange for a rep to come out and see you. This may shed some light on the problems and you can then ascertain if there is recourse against the installers. I’m not aware that there is federation specifically for underfloor heating so approaching a local CORGI or equivalent registered plumber with experience of installing and pairing underfloor heating with the appropriate boiler would be my recommendation. When choosing a plumber or contractor in general, I encourage my clients to ask for a few references and to contact them to check they are satisfied.
    Posted by BEN PARSONS on 19/02/2009 11:58:03
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  272. With reference to Sue's question, when submitting your planning application (this is certainly the case when submitting online using the Planning Portal) there is a field that requires you to divulge any trees you are planning to remove as part of the work. The planners should discount any soft vegetation anyway whilst determining. I would suggest you check with the planner prior to making the application in any case.
    Posted by BEN PARSONS on 17/02/2009 14:01:59
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  273. i have underfloor heating (wet and electric) designed and fitted by my builder and which is inefficient and expensive, leaving some rooms extremely hot (pantry & wc) and some rooms cold (sitting room) because of long runs from the manifold i think. i also have one area that doesn't have any heat control at all (entrance hall but simply makes use of the run from one end of the house to the other - hence this area is always cold. as this area is a 2 storey area (galleried landing), this is making the rest of the house upstairs and downstairs very cold. my builder (after almost 3 years) has been unwilling to rectify the problem and i would like to find an expert underfloor heating company/person who will be able to help redesign and install. would you please be able to advise. many thanks.
    Posted by Ros on 17/02/2009 10:35:50
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  274. Hi there, we are about to submit for planning permission for a 2 storey extension at the back of our house. The planning officer has agreed that on principle the plans warrant submission. Currently between the back of our house and our neighbours house, which is close to the boundary but diagonally offset, is a high Leylandi hedge (approx. 20ft)which will need to be removed. My question is - when should we remove the hedge - prior to submitting for planning permission or after? The proposed extension will block out less light than the hedge currently does and will not be within direct line of sight from our neighbours. Our concerns are that taking down the hedge in advance of a site visit may make our extension seem to be taking natural light from the neighbours. However, if we leave it - we don't want the hedge to cause problems as we know that there is sensitivity about removing hedges etc (even Leylandii ones). Many thanks for any advice you can offer....
    Posted by SueL on 16/02/2009 21:58:04
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