16 Nov 06
And now, yes, roadworks. These are not your average contraflow, nor even a 'When Red Light Shows Wait HERE'. It is, instead, an off-roading experience. The road ends, and with a refreshing lack of interference we're left to choose our onward path along one of variously two, three or four muddy, stony tracks. Now I see why our E-class is riding 5cm higher than standard and has an Africa-spec steel undertray. It also explains why it's on basic coil springs rather than up-spec air; all the engineers had to do was fit longer springs.
It's hardly a major off-road challenge, and perfectly standard cars are scooting along the unmade road at a speed probably terrifying to timid Westerners who have no idea what a regular car can do. But it was roads like this that caused the first Lada to be built of thicker steel than the Fiat 124 on which it was based. Naturally, our Mercedes doesn't even rattle.
Several miles later we're back on tarmacadam, but the old stuff now, which gives the suspension a good workout. Just how good is demonstrated by an old Lada Riva estate with shot rear dampers and even more shot axle bushings, which passes us as its driver demonstrates spectacular car control over the dips and potholes. At one point I swear the left rear wheel was sticking out beyond the bodywork.
Still there's little but wheat, wheat and more wheat spreading towards the horizon. Or rather the cut stems of this year's crop, the grain itself having been stored in the cathedral-like silos that loom ahead every now and then. Truly temples to the earth.