09 Nov 06
Over the next couple of days, the snow pays us a few more brief visits, finally arriving in earnest as we make our way from the dynamic Tatar capital of Kazan to the industrial city of Perm. According to the locals, it's four weeks early - and it adds a new dimension to a driving experience that is becoming slightly stale. Contrary to expectations, the roads have actually been improving as we head further east. In these oil- and gas-rich republics, the main roads would be the envy of many UK councils. The heavy snow forces us to modify our driving style, regulate our speed and fully appreciate some of the E-Class's less obvious features such as its clever lighting systems and semi-intelligent brakes.
Nevertheless, this is where the Ladas, Moscvitches and Volgas that we've swept past for the last few days get their revenge. With their skinny tyres, straightforward transmission and featherweight bodies, they look remarkably surefooted in the snow and slush, overtaking us by the dozen. Plus of course their drivers are far more familiar with such conditions than a couple of blokes from a country that grinds to a halt as soon as the first flake of snow achieves landfall.
On the penultimate day the radio crackles to tell us that a special welcome has been arranged for us a few miles ahead. Expecting a speed trap or worse, we are surprised to see a little table set up in a layby along with half a dozen brightly dressed women. It turns out to be an official welcoming committee from the Udmurt Republic. They provide us with tea and cakes, treat us like long-lost brothers when they learn that we are British rather than German, give us a quick blast of local song and dance despite the sub-zero temperatures, and proudly reveal that their main exports are tractors and Kalashnikov machine guns. They've driven 60 miles to do this and must have been waiting for hours.
