by: Jeremy Hart A-list Eighty all day Wave, say Hi Mister Cruise Car capital Have it all Hello Big Boy

In quick succession we pass a Russian bank, a Burger King, an Anglican church. All built cheek-by-jowl. The incongruous collection prompts a mutter from Leno, not on the zoning regulations but on the fact that in L.A. you can find whatever you want.

"For instance, all the best-looking women are here," he decides. "In any other place you'd say you'd like the face of that girl, the body of another and the butt on another. Here, thanks to plastic surgery, you can have it all. Shame the buildings aren't the same."

The cruise continues past the Chateau Marmont, rock stars' hotel of choice. "It's Nicholson and Jagger's favourite hang out, and they keep it faded on purpose," says Leno. "But I don't go to hotels here very often."

Sunset Boulevard suddenly becomes snooker-table smooth, right outside Sunny and Cher's old house, which looks like Cruella DeVille's mansion from 101 Dalmatians.

Early 1900s steam car

"Now you can tell you are in Beverly Hills," grins Leno, who lives here. "Everything is nicer here. Except if you as much as sneeze, the neighbours complain about the noise. As for cars, forget it. I went to an event in Beverly Hills with one of my steam cars. One guy asked me if my steamer had an airbag. It is First World War era for goodness' sake."