Features with Direct Line
Park and ride
Find a steepish hill and accelerate in third: if the revs go up but the car doesn't get any faster, then the clutch is on its way out. Stop on the hill and apply the handbrake. Does it hold the car stationary? Try the foot brakes (making sure that it is all clear behind). Does the car brake quickly and in a straight line?
Find a quiet area - an empty car park, if possible - and test the steering. Are there any clunks or grinding noises? Does the car wander, suddenly feel over-light to steer or pull to one side? Keep an eye on the temperature gauge; this should climb to roughly halfway and stay there. Going into the red is not normal. Listen out for any odd noises: clunks when braking or knocking sounds from the steering column.
Electrics and electronics
Try out all the electrical functions: windows, air conditioning, heater, radio etc. If the car has
ABS anti-lock brakes, make sure the warning light on the dashboard goes out quickly after the engine is turned on; look for any other warning lights, i.e. for
airbags, that don't go out. Make sure all the locks and door handles work properly, and be suspicious of any car that has different keys for the doors, ignition, boot and petrol cap. Make sure that you get the master key for an immobiliser, often a red key, or you could have problems if you lose a copy-key.
Trust your instincts
Do the vendor's reasons for selling sound genuine? Does what they have to say about the car ring true? How much service history comes with the car? Don't expect a full history on an older vehicle. If you're looking at a valuable or high-performance car, ask to see the service book, which should show main dealer or specialist maintenance. This can be faked, however, so it might be worth checking with the garage.
How long is the car's MOT? A genuine seller with nothing to hide shouldn't mind putting the car through a new test as a condition of sale, and you can then negotiate the sale around any problems found. Bargain for the cost of a new tax disc, if that's about to expire, and the cost of any minor repairs to bodywork.
Are the carpets wet, especially in the driver's footwell? This could mean leaking windscreen seals, or holes in the bulkhead, floor or even the heater matrix. Look in the boot, and lift up the carpet if possible. Are there any signs of welding? Or is the floor rippled from an impact?
Check that the seats fold, swivel (where appropriate) and adjust correctly, are properly anchored to the base of the car, and that all the seatbelts fasten and retract correctly.
