How to Shop Vintage

By Lydia Marcal

Vintage shops can be a treasure trove of unique pieces and timeless fashion classics but they can be a daunting prospect for the time-poor fashion lover. Here's 4Beauty's guide to getting the best out of thrift stores and vintage shops.

1. Look for Classic Shapes

Classic designs are more likely to stand the test of time. As Luke Ferris, owner of The East End Thrift Store (020 7423 9700) in London says, "Inspect garments and look at the crafting. Feel whether the material is good quality or not. You may find a really amazing original '60s dress hidden in the rails."

2. Don't Go on a Saturday

"If you can, go early on a Monday," says Nic Drinkwater, manager of Brighton's Snooper's Paradise (01273 602 558). "Traders tend to get all their goodies over the weekend at car boot sales." If you work Monday to Friday, then you haven't got much choice, but at least try and get there early at the weekend.

3. Check Out Vintage Fairs

These events often operate on a cost per bag basis where you can get a bag of slightly faulty or out-of-season clothes for £10-£20. The Affordable Fashion Fair is a great one to watch out for.

4. Do Your Research

Check out vintage clothes on eBay to find out rough costs, recommends Graham Watson, manager of Manchester's brilliant Oxfam Originals (0161 839 3160), which specialises in 1920s-1980s cool kit. "Knowledge is power," says Graham. "Harris Tweed and vintage sportswear like tennis skirts and swimwear are popular at the moment."

5. Swap Your Clothes

This is a big craze, with events going on around the country. You could offload that expensive dress you've only worn once and trade up to something you love and are more likely to wear more than once (until you get bored of it and swap it for something else!). There are a few options online as well. What's Mine Is Yours and the London Frock Exchange are both good options.

6. Read Care Labels

Sounds obvious but when your 1950s cashmere cardie comes out of the washing machine Barbie-sized, it hurts. Get proper advice from a good dry cleaner that has experience of vintage clothing as older materials can be extremely delicate. "Hand wash anything pre-1960s as they didn't have washing machines back then," recommends Diana of Beyond Retro. Use padded hangers, never wire, and if it's really special, store in airtight zip-lock bags away from light.

7. Learn Your History

Accessories were huge in the post-war period because hats, scarves and handbags were the only fashion items that weren't rationed. "Items under three inches in width such as ribbon, lace, suspenders, headgear and even fur coats weren't rationed. Leather wasn't available either so cork was used, particularly in women's wedge shoes, as it didn't wear out and was relatively comfortable," explains Robert Daoust of The National Archives.

And it's not just the 1940s, each era is renowned for a particular item, says Diana Kiernander of Beyond Retro (020 7729 9001). "Look for camisoles from the 20s, boned dresses with full skirts and bodice tops from the 50s, knitted sweater dresses from the 60s, or silk or denim jumpsuits from the 70s," she says.

8. Know Your Measurements

Modern diet and medical care mean we're not the same size we used to be. Vintage sizing not only varies by decade, manufacturer and country of origin but by individual piece too. Many pre-1940s clothes were hand-made to fit the wearer, and it wasn't until the 1960s that sizing like 10s, 12s and 14s started to appear. Try it on and if you're buying online, ask for specific measurements from the retailer to make sure it'll fit. It's also worth knowing a good alterations place - it might cost more but if the piece is really special you won't regret it.

9. Get Crafty

Charity shops may not always do different sizes but, as Poppy, owner of Poppy Treffrey, Handmade Textiles suggests, "You can make great cushions from old curtains or even old clothes. Mix and match bright florals, delicate embroidered linens and deckchair stripes for a funky patchwork feel and you've got something with a bit of history that's personal to you." So if you don't want to wear what you've discovered, make it into something for your home or a gift. And always keep those peepers peeled for nice buttons, trims and lace.

10. Love Your Sewing Machine

4Beauty loves the Vintage Vogue dress patterns at Sew Direct if you want to make some brand new pieces from original patterns. But be warned, this isn't for the faint-hearted - machine sewing knowledge is a must. And if you can't sew but fancy a new skill, there's some fantastic dress sewing classes out there, like Rags To Bitches in Manchester (0161 835 9265).