How to Make a Teacup Candle

Kirstie Allsopp, presenter of Location, Location, Location and Kirstie's Homemade Home, has created these DIY candle gifts.

"Candles are such wonderful things," she says. "Their glow creates a certain atmosphere in a room that is impossible to recreate with electricity. Candles are genuinely easy to make. There are lots of inexpensive kits out there that will supply you with everything you need, and it's a fairly quick process."

"I had a lesson from David Constable, a teacher who's been making candles for nearly half a century. He took me through the step-by-step process of making tall candles and teacup candles, using a couple of my own chipped teacups that I filled with wax. I hope you'll have a go at making these too."

You Will Need

- Teacup or similar container (ready-made moulds can be bought in craft shops or online, or use the ones that come with your candle-making kit)
- Wax (paraffin wax beads and beeswax, or old candles; beeswax acts as a hardening agent to give you a long, clean burn – use 5% beeswax to 95% paraffin)
- Double-boiler (or one saucepan on top of another)
- Wick sustainer (the metal washer that is found at the base of a tea-light)
- Dye discs or liquid candle dye (optional)
- Container wick (paper- or metal-cored)
- Pair of pliers (for crimping)
- Essential oils (if you want to make scented candles)

All the materials needed for this project usually come with candle-making kits; if not, they can be bought from David Constable.

Instructions

First work out how much wax you will need: fill your teacup with water and measure the amount. Say it's 150 ml (5 fl oz), you will need the corresponding amount of wax, so 150 g (5 oz).

Put your wax ingredient(s) into the top pan of a double-boiler, and pour water into the bottom pan. (All wax has a flash point, so a double-boiler is essential to prevent it bursting into flames.)

If you want a coloured candle, add the dye now and melt it with the wax over a gentle heat. One dye disc will colour 2 kg (41/2 lb) of wax, so you will need about one-tenth of a disc to colour a teacup candle, depending on how deep a shade you want.

Now prepare the wick. (A paper- or metal-cored container wick is essential as these have the rigidity to prevent them slumping into the molten wax and extinguishing themselves.) Cut the wick to a length 2 cm (3/4 inch) longer than the teacup's depth. Crimp the wick sustainer to one end of the cut wick and dip this ensemble into the prepared molten wax to prime it. Set aside.

If you want scented candles, choose an essential oil and do the following test to make sure it still smells pleasant when heated. Pour some oil into a teaspoon or incense burner, heat until it vaporises, then take a sniff. If you like it, melt 1 tablespoon wax and add a few drops of the oil to it. Stir well, then pour the mixture into an eggcup or similar small container and leave to set. Flip out the wax. If there is any oil left in the eggcup, or it has collected in a blister at the bottom of the wax, it is not suitable for your candle. You must use an oil that stays in suspension within the wax. If your oil passes this test, add 1 teaspoon oil to 100 g (4 oz) of molten wax and stir well. (Kirstie uses pine essential oil).

Pour the wax into your teacup all in one go. Once a fine skin has developed on the surface of the wax, gently push your primed wick through it in the centre of the teacup so that the wick sustainer sits at the bottom of the cup.

After approximately 30 minutes, you will notice a well forming in the top of the wax as it cools and contracts. Break the skin of the well, taking care to keep the wick in the centre of the cup. Do this every 20 minutes until the wax has fully congealed. Now reheat your remaining wax and fill the waxwell. For larger containers, you might have to repeat this topping-up process a few times.