Cosmetic Ingredients

Index:
Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHA)
Aluminium Zirconium Trichlorohydrex GLY
Ascorbic Acid
Benzophenone
Ethylenediaminetetraacetic Acid (EDTA)
Formaldehyde (DMDM hydantoin, Quaternarium-15)
Hesperidin Methyl Chalcone (HMC)
Lanolin
Parabens
Petroleum Distillates (Petroleum Jelly)
Phthalates (Dibutyl Phthalates)
Propylene Glycol (PEG or PPG)
Retinol
Sodium Lauryl Sulphate (SLS) & Sodium Laureth Sulphate (SLES)
Salicylic Acid
Toluene (Phenylmethane, Methylbenzene, Toluol)
Triethanolamine, Diethanolamine, (TEA)
Urea (Carbamide, Diazolidinyl Urea)
Zea Mays (Corn Oil or Corn Starch)

Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHA)

Found in cleansers, exfoliants, night creams, chemical peels, serum
Cleopatra knew what she was doing when she bathed in asses' milk. The lactic acid in milk contains AHA, which is used in cosmetics to exfoliate and condition the skin.

Commercial AHAs are derived from sugar cane and fruit, as well as milk, and they are particularly useful for gentle exfoliation to reveal the newer skin cells underneath the surface layer.

They can help in repairing sun-damaged skin; however, they do increase sensitivity to UV rays so use a sunscreen and limit exposure to the sun if you are using them. AHAs can trigger skin irritations and some say high concentrations are toxic to the liver and kidneys.

Aluminium Zirconium Trichlorohydrex GLY

Found in deodorants and antiperspirants
When applied to skin this chemical stops sweat. The aluminium salts dissolve sweat and coat sweat glands, reducing perspiration for a number of hours. Alum, a salt of aluminium used in natural deodorants, works in a similar way.

Despite persistent media scaremongering, there is no scientific evidence to link the use of this chemical to breast cancer or Alzheimer's Disease. Organisations including Cancer Research UK and the Alzheimer's Society support these findings. However, GLY is the culprit for those yellow underarm stains on your favourite white shirt.

Ascorbic Acid

Found in skin-lightening cosmetics, anti-ageing cosmetics, sunscreens, moisturisers
More commonly known as vitamin C, ascorbic acid is found in most fruit and vegetables and used in many cosmetics. Products containing ascorbic acid are high in antioxidants - known to be good at fighting cancer-causing environmental damage such as pollution.

Ascorbic acid is essential for the production of collagen (the stuff that makes your skin plump and supple) and the repair of cells, and it plays a vital role in maintaining healthy teeth, bones, gums, skin and blood vessels.

A form of ascorbic acid is used in products that treat hyper-pigmentation, darkening of the skin or age spots, making it a must-have to fight the first signs of ageing.

Benzophenone

Found in nail varnish, bath products, perfumes, after-shave lotions, sun cream and other cosmetics containing sunscreen
Benzophenone is a powder found in a number of beauty products, especially sunscreens. It protects skin from dangerous UV rays by absorbing, reflecting or scattering the harmful rays.

Exposing skin to UV light may cause sunburn, premature ageing, and even skin cancer so using a sunscreen regularly is a powerful way to fight these problems.

However, benzophenone has been known to trigger skin irritations and even blistering so, if you are susceptible to skin irritants, look for sun creams especially made for sensitive skins.

Ethylenediaminetetraacetic Acid (EDTA)

Found in shampoo, conditioner, hair dyes, soap, body wash, cleansers, moisturisers
EDTA and its salts are used in cosmetics to stop clear liquids going cloudy and to prolong fragrance. It maximises foaming and cleansing performance so less residue remains on hair, scalp or skin.

However, it also alters your skin structure so products are more easily absorbed - enabling other chemicals to more easily enter your bloodstream.

Formaldehyde (DMDM hydantoin, Quaternarium-15)

Found in shampoo, conditioner, shower gel, liquid hand wash, make-up, nail varnish, creams, mouthwash, deodorants, antiperspirants
Formaldehyde is a preservative that is frequently added to cosmetics to protect them from contamination during storage and use - so your product lasts as long as possible.

However, formaldehyde is a known human carcinogen (cancer-causing chemical), immune system and respiratory toxicant, as well as a skin irritant. In high concentrations it can trigger asthma attacks, which can be fatal, but the Cosmetic Ingredient Review (an independent panel set up by cosmetic trade associations in the US) states that its use in cosmetics shouldn't pose any threat - as long as they are non-aerosol products.

Other preservatives such as DMDM hydantoin and Quaternarium-15 can also break down into formaldehyde so cosmetics containing these should also be avoided if you are concerned about using them.

Hesperidin Methyl Chalcone (HMC)

Found in eye creams
Hesperidin methyl chalcone (HMC) comes from citrus fruits and is used in many eye creams as it prevents blood vessels around the skin of your eyes leaking, reducing the visibility of dark circles.

HMC is considered to have no adverse side effects beyond the usual irritations suffered by those with heightened sensitivities, such as redness, puffiness and itching.

Lanolin

Found in shaving products, manicure products, shampoo, conditioner, sunscreen products, make-up, moisturiser
Lanolin is a natural oil extracted from sheep's wool and used in beauty products for skin, hair and nails. It is known for its moisturising properties, so is commonly used in products to alleviate eczema and dermatitis (persistently dry and flaky skin), although in a minority of people it can aggravate those conditions.

The NHS also recommends lanolin ointment for treating chilblains, as well as sore, cracked nipples caused by breastfeeding. However, those with known wool allergies should avoid products containing lanolin as it may cause rashes and burning or stinging sensations. Otherwise, as long as it is not swallowed, lanolin is considered to be safe.

Parabens

Found in most cosmetics, especially shampoos
Parabens are considered by some to be a friend, others a foe. They stop bacteria spoiling cosmetic products, so if your favourite cosmetics contain methyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl, isopropyl or isobutylparaben, you can be sure they will be long-lasting.

But many dermatologists consider parabens to be as evil as a James Bond villain, and associate them with skin irritation and dermatitis. Recently they were linked to an increased risk of breast cancer but the NHS and Cancer Research UK have both discredited this. Despite this, some brands have stopped using them in favour of natural preservatives, such as eucalyptus, lavender and tea tree essential oils.

Petroleum Distillates (Petroleum Jelly)

Found in hair relaxers, hair dyes, soap, shampoo, conditioner, moisturisers, anti-ageing products, make-up, lip balms
Petroleum distillates or gels are derived from crude oil and are used in a variety of beauty products, particularly those which claim to moisturise and protect injured skin. The jelly-like substance slows down the loss of water from the skin by forming a barrier on its surface.

It has no nutrient value for the skin and can encourage the skin to stop producing its own natural moisturising oils, leading to dryness and chapping. It therefore may exacerbate the very conditions you are trying to relieve.

For dry hair, skin and very minor burns, natural waxes combined with soothing oils such as almond, olive or jojoba can be more nourishing - and less profitable for big oil companies.

Phthalates (Dibutyl Phthalates)

Found in nail varnish and any cosmetic that contains 'parfum' or 'fragrance'
Phthalates are primarily used to give flexibility to rubber, plastic or resin but they are also used in cosmetic products.

Dibutyl Phthalate (DBP) is used to make nail polish flexible and resistant to chipping and Diethyl Phthalate (DEP) is used in perfumes to prolong fragrance quality. In 2004, the European Union prohibited the manufacture and/or sale of cosmetics containing phthalates.

Propylene Glycol (PEG or PPG)

Found in skin lotion, shampoo, conditioner, baby wipes, soap, make-up
In the quest for the perfect complexion would you douse your skin in anti-freeze? Cosmetic companies believe you would. Propylene Glycol is the main ingredient in anti-freeze and is usually listed on cosmetic labels as PEG or PPG.

These organic alcohols are added to beauty products that claim to hydrate skin, leaving it smooth and soft. However, both are considered toxins that cause skin rashes and persistent dry, flaky skin and eye irritation.

Retinol

Found in shampoo, conditioner, moisturiser, anti-ageing products
Retinol promotes the natural reproduction of cells and is often seen as a miracle cure for those with sun-damaged skin and hair, and acne. Sometimes referred to as vitamin A, retinol in cosmetics reduces skin flakiness, increases its suppleness and softens lines and wrinkles by aiding the production of collagen.

Its presence in hair products is known to improve hair texture and shine, answering the prayers of those with chemically-treated and damaged hair. Pregnant women are advised to avoid eating any foods with high levels of vitamin A as it may cause harm to unborn babies so, while there is no direct evidence about the use of retinol in cosmetics posing any problems, you may want to discuss it with your GP or midwife.

Sodium Lauryl Sulphate (SLS) & Sodium Laureth Sulphate (SLES)

Found in shampoo, bubble bath, shower gel, cleansers
Ever wondered why shampoo, soap and shower gel lather, while conditioner and other cosmetics do not? The answer is the presence of SLS or SLES - detergents that foam, removing oil from hair and skin.

Despite being portrayed as the baddies of the beauty world by many non-chemical cosmetic companies, both SLS and SLES are proven to be safe cleansers - provided any contact with skin is brief and rinsing is thorough.

Those with sensitive skin may find products containing SLS and SLES irritate and aggravate conditions such as eczema, contact dermatitis, and skin and eye irritations. Some cosmetic companies avoid listing SLS or SLES by saying 'comes from coconuts'.

Salicylic Acid

Found in dandruff shampoos, spot creams, acne and wart treatment
Salicylic acid is often prescribed by doctors to treat eczema and psoriasis but it is also used in cosmetics that tackle persistent acne or spots. The acid acts as an irritant, penetrating skin follicles and encouraging the shedding of dead skin cells.

Overuse of products containing salicylic acid can excessively dry out skin, so depending on strength, do not use them more than once or twice a day. Some practitioners advise against using any product with salicylic acid when pregnant (use benzoyl peroxide instead - but check with your doctor first).

Toluene (Phenylmethane, Methylbenzene, Toluol)

Found in nail varnish
Toluene has two very different purposes: it is often found in nail polish, as it enables the colour to be applied evenly and it is also a solvent, used as paint thinner as well as many other uses.

Regular exposure to toluene has been connected to birth defects and liver and kidney damage. As a result, the European Union banned the use of toluene in 2004. However, products from other countries may not be free from the chemical and must be purchased with caution.

Triethanolamine, Diethanolamine, (TEA)

Found in make-up, make-up removers, fragrances, shaving products, sunscreens, shampoo, conditioner, hair dyes, wave sets
TEA is used to make 'gentle', 'non-irritating' and 'hypoallergenic' products. Confusingly, some evidence suggests this chemical is actually a mild skin and eye irritant.

Also, due to its highly alkaline properties, it is highly reactive and can create a chemical chain called nitrosamines. In high concentrations, nitrosamines have been found to be carcinogenic (cancer-causing) and capable of penetrating skin. The use and concentration of TEA in cosmetics is limited by the European Union.

Urea (Carbamide, Diazolidinyl Urea)

Found in eye make-up, hair colour, shampoo, conditioner, cleanser, body wash, skin lotions
Urea is used as a fertiliser and a synthetic form of urea helps the skin's top surface to retain moisture. It is also used in cosmetics as a preservative. However urea can be broken down to release formaldehyde, a known carcinogen that causes kidney and liver problems and itching, blistering and burning sensations in skin.

Zea Mays (Corn Oil or Corn Starch)

Found in dry shampoo, conditioner, moisturiser, mineral make-up, cosmetics for oily skin
Many cosmetic ingredients are formed from zea mays, the most common being corn oil or corn starch. These are used in skin and hair products for the purposes of conditioning and absorption, and are frequently used in dry shampoo.

Zea mays absorbs oil, preventing skin becoming greasy and slowing any deterioration of make-up on those long, hot days. However, our bodies produce natural oils to nourish hair and skin, and overuse of dry shampoo and mineral make-up may prevent your hair and skin producing and benefiting from these natural oils.